how to remove front turn signal/parking lights?
 

how do you remove the front turn signal or parking lights? i assume they are dual filament rather than single filament. i'm getting ready to change my hid's (5000k) once they get here in the mail from hidextra! so since i'm under the hood i figure i should replace the front turn signal/parking lights while i'm there.

i tried to look near the engine bay. i see the connector but it looks pretty difficult to get my hand down there. where else do i get to this bulb?

thanks:thumbsup:

remove part of the fender liner and reach in from there (mine are still original bulbs :what:

haha i know! mines are original and they still work but since i'm replacing the hid's i mines well replace all the bulbs under.

i just want to make sure which bulbs do i get? the parking and turn signal operate on one bulb, right?

i have a 1999...

okay i didn't realize we have a side marker bulb also. is that just the 02-03 models or does the 99-01 have a side marker bulb also?

the bulbs are dual filiment with the round base and have two nipples on the base of the bulb. bulb numbers for front are 1157

well why does the dude in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/bulb-application-614883/

put down:

Parking light
1157A
1157AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
1157ALL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front turn signal
1157A
1157AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
1157ALL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front sidemarker
1157A
1157AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
1157ALL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

i just realized i need to front sidemarker bulbs. but why does he list front turn signal and front parking light if they are the same bulb and dual filament?

i'm saying if its dual filament if i was to use the turn signal it would blink and then stay lit up because i have the parking lights on at the same time, right?

thats how they list it for every vehicle.. they just like to list every possible bulb application. it is one bulb that has two filliments.. i just replaced mine a few days ago and i had to pull it out to splice into the wire for my side markers.

okay its clear now, i just need two 1157 parking light/turn signal bulbs and i need two 1157 side marker lights.

question why did you have to splice? for side marker lights we have a connector for the bulb already...

he just put sidemarkers on his fenders

i had a feeling he did that but wow...

i feel like this dude right now
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...fescalator.gif

also xlost make sure you got a "tamper" resistant torx to be able to remove the hid access panels on the headlights (or a dremal works too with cutting a slot for a normal screw driver)

Are you changing them just to change them? :scratch:

kinda sort of. i mean sense i'm replacing my xenon bulbs then why not do the turn signal/parking lights.

might as well

There are 2 different bulbs, the 1157 and the 168 bulbs.

You can use a small flathead screwdriver for that.

not really, maybe if you kinda push hard on that small screwdriver to get it to grip the torx part

anyways one of mine was already slotted, and the other one already had a standard philips head screw in it, so was never an issue for me :shrug:, never would of been though, got acces to the proper torx bit :shrug:

no feeling is better than having the right tools

and being able to do it properly/as intended:2cents:

i'm sorry i like using the right tools intended when placing them on my vehicle. i made a mistake by purchasing a regular T-20 screwdriver and went back in autozone and asked for a security tamper T-20 and they walked me over to the tamper security torx set.

it would be easier to use the proper tools then forcing another tool that was not intended for that screw or accessory:2cents:

i'm an auto technician in the making and that was something i knew from the beginning:rolleyes:

not exactly "tamper resistent" anymore :rofl:, when you can buy the tool at autozone, just makes us have to buy more f***ing tools :whyme: :tongue:

btw not the best tools there, but they work especially when you are just starting out though

true but not an average douche on the hood streets where i live will try to steal my or your xenon bulbs either.

and of course its not the best tools (cheap, yes). but its something to have in my inventory as the years progress:thumbsup:

i know plenty of mechanics that spent over 50 grand on tools. now that is ridiculous:what:

and more for legal and safty reasons having those screws, why you think they have those huge caution labels on the covers :shrug:

and 50 grand, it's not all at once, but over years, but yeah it adds up, and when you use the tools on a daily basis, need the best tools possible (which obviosly cost money), or they will be breaking/wearing out often

for no idiot to be dumb enough to open it up with a regular screwdriver and get shocked and boom sue acura:whyme:

i took all those in consideration

yes, but like fries said, when you use these tools all day everyday you need the best quality tools. when i was in the navy, we had snap on tools and we were constantly replacing wrenches because they started rounding out, and rachets (they wouldn't rachet anymore) etc. when you work on airplanes you put a lot of wear and tear on your tools.

exactly, even snap on stuff wheres out eventually, just imagine lower quality stuff, and for you guys it's not like you have a dealer stopping by every week ethier to replace the damaged stuff, so they need to last

I was just sharing that based on my experience. You just need to grab the slots non-diagonally.

I was working on my car, noticed the security torx screw but I only had non-slotted torx bits. The car was in pieces so driving to the shop was not viable. Just saying that if push comes to shove, or if you don't want to buy a whole set that you don't think you will ever use again, then you can use a small flathead screwdriver. And it doesn't mess anything up.

Agree. There is nothing wrong with improvising. Some times you have to do it.


Oh and Snap on Sucks. They are overpriced. I myself prefer craftsman just for the fact if something breaks you can drive yourself down to the sears store and get it replaced instantly and not have to wait for the snapon truck to come. Especially as a individual person and not a shop.

yeah being at a shop means that the truck comes once a week to us, so no having to drive down to the local sears store, which is like 18 miles away, near where i live though, so not too much a hassle if needed, but still means a distance to drive just to get a replacement tool, where snap-on we just call and find where he is located in town and just go to him (normally no more then 5 or so miles away, so faster)
but yeah a little overprice for the average diy'er though, but not when they get used daily, also btw the wrenches, sockets and such are thinner normally then craftsmen stuff, so you are able to reach into tighter spot with them also, so another plus to the

plus MAC, Matco, and Cornwell tools work well also, and not as pricey as Snap-on, but some of it also has to do with them having better dealers and such for what brands we get

Matco is awesome they came to my college the other day and was advertising off their inventory and i must say i might have to jump on the bandwagon and pick up a tool set from them as my years in this profession increase.

our matco dealer is an ass, and only really comes around when he is owed money or something, where like cornwell and snap-on come by weekly, no matter what (we got no MAC dealer btw), so you can kinda figure what most of our tools are (snap-on though cause corn-well has only been coming by for a couple of years now, compared to snap-on that has been like 10+ years already)