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Steering wheel shake 40 - 50 mph
Recently I've noticed my steering wheel will shake back and forth starting at around 40 mph and it gets worse around 50 mph then starts to diminish when approaching higher speeds. The wheel will also do this pretty bad when braking from around 40-50 mph.
I just recently installed EBC rotors and Hawk pads, new wheels(yesterday) that were balanced. I jacked up the front end and pulled on the wheels to check for loose tie rods/ball joints and couldn't find any. After reading through some of the car shakes threads it sounds like the CV joints are probably the cause. Are there any other indicators this is the problem? Could it be something else? I can't believe my brand new rotors would be warped already. The car has 154,000 miles on it. Oh, and a few days ago I "curbed" the right front wheel while turning a corner and it seemed to worsen the situation. |
I had a similar issue and compiled this list of things to check as well as a troubleshooting guide pulled from a sister site.
Symptoms: Pulls to the right (Alignment first - DONE) Grinding, rubbing noise Vibration 45-60mph Fix: Bent Control Arms? CV Joints? Tie rod ends? $29.94 each (L/R) Warped Axles? (Search CL forum... there are a couple threads which point to this issue) Motor Mounts Check suspension - Stuts still good? Purchase New: Camber Kit Ruled Out: End Links Lower Ball joints Front & Rear Ball Joints Alignment Trouble shooting guide: Vibration that increases with speed or kicks in at different speeds Excessive play in the inner or outer joints or a bent driveshaft Replace worn shaft assembly Clunking noise when engaging automatic transmission. Worn inner or outer joints. Replace worn shaft assembly. Continuous knock at low speed Indicates a worn CV joint Replace worn assembly. Continuous humming or growling noise. Inadequate lubrication on inner or outer joints (check boots for leaks). May also be worn gears or wheel bearings. Inspect CV joint - replace necessary. Clunking noise during acceleration or deceleration. Worn inboard joint or differential problem in the transaxle. replace worn shaft assembly or repair transaxle as necessary. Clicking or popping noise. Worn outer joint. Replace worn shaft assembly. Shudder while acceleration or deceleration. Worn inner CV joint. Replace worn shaft assembly. Cyclic vibration. Worn inner tripod CV joint. Replace worn shaft assembly. |
Probably need an alignment. Or if you have aftermarket wheels they could be a lil bent....I know of someone who had this SAME EXACT issue.
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You answered your own question. You probably shifted a belt in the tire when you hit the curb.
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Ok just FYI - I have brand new wheels and tires on the car AFTER I curbed the stock wheel.
I just got done installing the passenger side CV Axle assembly and I have a NEW PROBLEM..arrrrrghhh! There is a loud squeal coming from the front right wheel area. Im positive it is the outer joint carrier(dont know what else to call it) that is rubbing against the steering knuckle as it was extremely close upon assembly. Could I have the wrong CV axle assembly? I bought it from NAPA Auto parts(reman). How do I fix this??? Just a note: I plan on replacing the driver side CV axle assembly too. |
Here's a pic
http://members.aol.com/jeffropx/axle.jpg |
does it squeel all the time or only on turns or straights?
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Originally Posted by MurdaZ
does it squeel all the time or only on turns or straights?
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Ok I fixed everything. The abs sensor ring was not seated all the way on the outer CV joint, thus it was rubbing on the inside of the steering knuckle (see pic above).
I replaced with a NEW CV axle assembly - that problem solved. The other issue with the steering wheel shaking is resolved too. I examined the hub centric ring on my new wheel, and the hub and noticed the ring(aluminum) was galled a bit from not fitting properly on the hub. I cleaned up the ridge on the centering ring I.D. with a dremel and went around the hub O.D. (on car) with the dremel to smooth it as it appeared to have a ridge around the outside. Reassembled everything carefully and the car goes down the road with no vibrations or noises. Thanks to those who tried to help. |
Solution..!
I went to the Acura dealer (finally), and they found both CV joints broken.
My mechanic changed them, and guess what...? Vibration is gone forever. Even when they don't look broken, they may be in the inside. Mrkanela :)
Originally Posted by jeffrop
(Post 9264484)
Recently I've noticed my steering wheel will shake back and forth starting at around 40 mph and it gets worse around 50 mph then starts to diminish when approaching higher speeds. The wheel will also do this pretty bad when braking from around 40-50 mph.
I just recently installed EBC rotors and Hawk pads, new wheels(yesterday) that were balanced. I jacked up the front end and pulled on the wheels to check for loose tie rods/ball joints and couldn't find any. After reading through some of the car shakes threads it sounds like the CV joints are probably the cause. Are there any other indicators this is the problem? Could it be something else? I can't believe my brand new rotors would be warped already. The car has 154,000 miles on it. Oh, and a few days ago I "curbed" the right front wheel while turning a corner and it seemed to worsen the situation. |
do you by chance have the part numbers for the cv joints?? might be my problem too...
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