Brake pressure problems after changing Brake Pads and Rotors
 

I changed the the pads and rotors on my 2007 TL-S and now I'm not getting any brake pressure when I pump the brakes. Does anybody have any suggestions on how I can fix this?

Welcome to AZ :thumbsup: Did you check you brake fluid level?

Yes, actually the brake fluid is at full level. I even bled the brake line just to make sure there wasn't any air pockets in the line, and still no brake pressure. Brake pedal goes all the way down.

Could be several things.

1) You didn't bleed the brakes correctly and air got into the system at the master cylinder. You'll need to re-bleed them. Make sure the master cylinder stays filled with fluid at all times while bleeding, if it isn't, you'll be sucking air into the system.

2) ABS pump has air in it. Dealer can cycle the ABS module with a scan tool to get the air out. If it's in the ABS pump, it will be hard for you to do at home.

3) Your master cylinder is shot.

could be a bad master cylinder.. but since it was fine before and now you have problems I assume it's related to your brake job.

What type of BF did you use?

Did you bleed all the lines?

Did you have pedal pressure when you bled the lines?

Do you notice any leaks anywhere?

I would take a caliper off each side one in the front & one in the rear.. push in the pistons with channel locks and then have someone press in the brake pedal to see if the piston pushes out on both sides. Any air in the system is a real PITA to get out.. You might end up having to take it and get purged if possible. Also when you bleed the lines make sure you top off the MC on each line.. 1 Qt of BF should be good enough to bleed all 4 lines.. Also.. you bled the outside before the inside on your fronts right?

Make sure you bleed from Driverside front - Passenger side front - Passenger side rear - driver's side rear if you bleed all the lines...

its not IF you bleed all the lines- you MUST bleed the 4 corners
LF RF RR LR and no other bleed order will work--differant than most cars--due to ABS plumbing

Its tough to get air in the abs controller without opening a line for a long period of time but just in case- try this
bleed system per correct order then
Assuming you now have some brakes do 2, 45 mph to 0 full stops with the abs active
that means driving thru water or something to make it slippery- then the abs will start working and pump any air from its core out to the caliper-
the pedal must be shaking under your foot or its not in abs active mode
rebleed if better 2nd time and should be fine

the test is 2 full stops- if the 2nd time has a firmer pedal you had air in the controller

These brakes are simple to work on~
On brembo front calipers bleed the outer screw until clean clear fluid only comes out- then the inner--bubbles hide so keep going after first sight of clean fluid--do it several more times
top off master
move to next wheel- top off master- move to next wheel

note- manual bleeding with a friend helping- if friend isnt a skilled tech place a small bit of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal so it only travels 3/4 to the floor- thats its normal movement range.
Going past that and to the floor- especially more than once, CAN damage the oring seal and ruin the master cyl !!!!!!
Once its seal is bad- it wont build any pressure when you pump the brakes and will sink to floor if pressure help to pedal

correct manual bleeding is pump the pedal 4-5 times and hold pressure as if stopped on steep hill
Other person opens bleeder line 1/4 turn and allows fluid and bubbles out-
when helper says pedal on the block, tighten screw
helper pumps pressure and holds for next set
4-5 sets of bleed per wheel is average to get all new fluid thru the calipers and out

changing pads and rotors all by itself should cause no problems. as pads wear, the level in the master cylinder drops, and people top it off. when you then put new pads on, the level typically ends up high and the excess needs to be removed with a turkey baster or something similar.

no bleeding should have been required for a proper pad installation. but now that you did one bleeder, you do have to do them all again in the correct order as mentioned. typically it starts furthest away from the master cylinder but not in this case. some vehicles also have a rear proportioning valve that also has a bleeder, and it is done last.

fronts will require more bleeding to get good fluid to the bleeder as that fluid gets hotter both from higher braking load and engine heat. i like to try to empty the reservoir with the turkey baster as best as i can, then top off, then start the bleeding process to get as much of the old fluid out as possible as it is very hydroscopic which severly reduces the boiling point.

i am not a fan of pushing the pedal all the way to the floor as it pushes the piston into a section of the cylinder that it never sees and can cause seal problems. i prefer the tank systems that mount over the master cylinder reservoir and pressure it. then you just crack open the bleeder and never risk air going back in.

I read somewhere that it is ill advised to use the one man tank kits on the TL.. I can't remember the reasoning or if it was on the board / tsb / service manual.. I'll post up once I find the source.

it is not in the service manual. if it is elsewhere from acura, i would appreciate seeing it. thx

I have the least problems with a basic 2 man system
use the turkey baster and remove MOST but not all the fluid from master- dont want to uncover the holes where fluid goes to lines- that would allow air in!!
refill and begin
Flush all the calipers until clean new fluid comes thru the line, then a few more sets of pump hold open release to know the caliper has only new fluid in it now
It needs to be done EVERY year- hygroscopic is no joke and rust particles kill caliper oring seals
again driver front then clockwise around the car- LF RF RR LR
Do it all around twice if you want to be extra good and safe

Don’t recall seeing this in previous posts, but on the Brembo calipers there are 2 bleeders on each caliper set, one on the inside and one on the outside. They must both be bled, inside first.

Okay I've search and stuck, need help. Trying to remove rear rotors as I speak due to stripped studs...The rear calipers removed, 2 retaining screws removed, I wd-40 everything but the (rear) rotors are not budging what can I do hammer elbow grease please help....

You would be better off starting a new thread on the subject, but.... Place the lug nuts back on the studs to protect the ones that are still good and hammer on the hat around the stus to break the rust loose. You can also insert 2 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the holes and turn them in slowly to aid in removal.

Make sure e-brake is off. Also helps to take a rubber mallet and gently tap all sides of the rotor.

Thanks all done just needed elbow grease and some aggressive hammering on the hubs.

Also thanks (I hate Cars) for your advice.

Yes.

I needed to get my fluid changed (long overdue) and would just like to reaffirm to everyone else who reads the above post - this is the way to do it. You can do it by yourself too (see wood method) but it takes a little longer.