vill0169

iTrader: (4)

or ??? LOL


Where's my PM?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

LOL yeah

cudnt find it LOL

and I did send you a PM

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

LOL, my turn to haha just kidding.

the fenda rolla

Just emailed Tim and he said that they don't have a "swoosh" code yet...said y'all are still workin' out the details...but he did give me a coupon code for free shipping on orders over $700...

If ya don't mind me asking, what kind of hook up did he give you??

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

haha...i wish bro....i have soooo much to learn from ya....it would have been a great experience....

yeah his prices are soo low he is having a hard time convincing his managers to give a coupon code but he said he will work it out....

for my order of the following items:

16400-RKG-A01 THROTTLE BODY, ELECTRONIC CONTROL(GMD8A) 1 $432.06 $432.06
17140-RK1-A01 COVER, IN. MANIFOLD (UPPER) 1 $147.30 $147.30
17160-RK2-A00 MANIFOLD, IN. 1 $194.47 $194.47
17181-RCJ-A00 PIPE, EGR 1 $32.78 $32.78
16450-RWC-A01 INJECTOR ASSY., FUEL 6 $35.40 $212.40
74100-SEP-A10 FENDER ASSY., R. FR. (INNER) 1 $25.87 $25.87
95701-08060-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X60) 4 $0.76 $3.04 THROTTLE BODY
92900-06014-0B BOLT, STUD (6X14) 2 $0.35 $0.70 THROTTLE BODY
95701-06035-08 BOLT, FLANGE (6X35) 2 $0.58 $1.16 THROTTLE BODY
95701-08065-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X65) 7 $0.83 $5.81 THROTTLE BODY
90104-RCJ-A00 BOLT, SPECIAL FLANGE (6X18) 10 $1.78 $17.80 THROTTLE BODY
90201-P8E-A00 NUT, CAP (6MM) 2 $0.54 $1.08 THROTTLE BODY
94050-08080 NUT, FLANGE (8MM) 2 $0.17 $0.34 THROTTLE BODY
Total Amount $1,074.81

This order also included some credit and hence the bill is ~$100 cheaper....if you were to order the same stuff from him, expect the bill to be ~$1175-$1200

hope that helps Peter

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Told the primary radiator fan to GTFO today and wouldn't you know, it did! lol It's never ever come on since the car became track only and it's just adding weight and restricting air flow so now it's outta there. Haven't weighed it yet but should be worth about 5lbs.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

all that room in there....we can do a V8 swap

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

No way - C32B stroker

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

LOL...a C32B storker will be a MAD rebuild.....

watch out NSX...the TL(X)'s gotta go !!!

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

All that room!

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Been thinking a lot about a completely new front end design for next season. Consisting of:

a newer, more complete splitter extended further back under the engine and lowered closer to ground.

stronger splitter support rods

wheel well fences with a canard setup most likely

a new quick release latch setup so I take quickly get the bumper off so loading the car is easier

maybe even a new oil cooler

here's the latch I'll probably use for it.


as usual, I'll keep you posted as to the progress. Definitely have 2 more events scheduled through october then I think the work will begin.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

CANT WAIT !!!!

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

New website is up! still working on it but figured I'd share the progress so far and get my page views off and running!

THANKS AZ FOR ALL YOUR SUPPORT!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You can run the TL-S cams without an ECU upgrade. Not sure if its been mentioned before. The Bisis will need some form of tuning.

Harman187

sick car

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Hey all,


Went out to Mid America Motorplex yesterday and did some tuning on my aero setup. It's awesome having the track so close to home and for most of the day there were maybe 6 cars there so I basically had the whole track just to myself. It was straight up WINDY though. It was gusting 25-30 right down the damn straight which wasn't a whole lotta fun but oh well... I did 4 sessions in the morning, only 2 were really for time because I had passengers for the other 2. Got the line pretty much ironed out and was managing about a 1:49.9 but knew the car and myself still had plenty more to give. Over the lunch break I pulled the front splitter off and the rear wing off because I wanted to see what sort of difference in feel and lap time the two made. I had to leave the diffuser and underbody panel on because they are pretty much permanently mounted to the car.

Needless to say the lack of splitter/diffuser was HORRIBLE!!! My gosh I couldn't believe how bad it felt. Could barely get the tires anywhere near temp on the warmup lap and it basically took all my focus just to keep it on track. Braking was noticeably more unstable (I brake HARD lol), turn in had ridiculous oversteer and getting on the power made it instantly push/understeer mid corner through the exit. I was absolutely shocked by this and couldn't believe the difference it made. I had my lap timer running but I don't even think I got a "good" hot lap in because the difference was that drastic. But even above all of that, the thing that made the splitter not only effective but NECESSARY, was the coolant temp. Without the splitter feeding the radiator air through the hole in the bumper, there wasn't much of any getting to it and on my second lap I saw the water temp was damn near touching 250! Normally it'll never go past 210, even on the hottest of track days. So needless to say my aero testing was incredibly obvious, just not in the way I thought it was going to be.

The afternoon sessions after the no aero was pretty sad actually. I immediately put the aero back on and went back out and on my 3 lap picked up a bolt or pin or screw or something and punctured my left rear tire! My still damn near NEW, $260 Hoosier R6 tire! So needless to say my day was over and I didn't get the chance to really push the car and see what sort of a lap time I could manage my first day there. Oh well....I'll have to get some new tires and be back out when I can.

Here are the pics and vids are coming soon.









































Iowa Pride shot with the farmhouse lol


Big shout out to Brad (Nukem), he stopped out with his NSX and took a ride in the car. definitely makes me want my NSX so much more! lol










Here's the ugly, no aero look the car had in the afternoon. I can't say I like it without the aero bits.






And the puncture.......





As always, I look forward to your comments and encouragement!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Damn, that sucks. I assume thats not something you can patch, since its a track tire

the fenda rolla

Always good to see your progress and track footage Villo! Definitely can't wait for those vids! I'm actually heading back to the track in early December...this time with the Skunk2 camber control arms. I definitely need some negative camber up front...

How did those Carbotech XP10s hold up? I used the XP12s last time and will be using the XP10s in Dec...

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Yeah some neg camber is good up front but I don't think you need more than about -1.8 to -2 degrees worth. I run about that and have always seen very even wear and tire temps.

XP10's hold up great for me. I was pushing them HARD yesterday and they were there every time for me. I build more confidence in them every track day. Heck I've had them for 2 years ish now and I still probably have around 50% of the pad left.

the fenda rolla

Excellent to hear about the XP10s! So you mean you've been using the same set of pads for the past 2 years without changing them and you still have 50% left?!! That's crazy! How many track days/events is that?

And, yea, I was thinking about -2 or -2.2 degrees...looks like -2 should be good then! I have about -1.75 in the rear...

Thanks bro!

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Yup, same XP10's and they have probably 6 weekends on them. I'm tempted to try the 12's or 14's next time just see what they're like at my weight lol

Yeah I run just under -2 in the front and about -2.6 in the rear. I would like to do more testing with the tire temp gauge though and really dial in each corner of the car.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Awesome update! Love to see pics of this TL.

the fenda rolla

Very cool...oh and a quick word about the XP12s I had, I used them for that track weekend back in March when they only had a couple hundred miles on them, they performed great for me on the track and a couple thousand miles of easy daily driving after that up until about late July when they wore down to the rivets that hold the braking material to the backing plate. When they wore down to the rivets they totally scored both front rotors, which of course destroyed them. I drove them until they had about 3mm of material left. Got new Centric rotors and the XP10s last month.

So just a heads-up, I think I remember reading that the XP12s wear out pretty quick and my own personal experience proved that. Just don't let any of the Carbotechs for our car get too thin or your rotors will be toast! :/ I called Carbotech myself to ask them why their pads destroy rotors way before they are completely done and they said it's just in their design...they use rivets when some others (Hawk for example) do not...now I know you need to replace pads when they're about the thickness of the backing plate, but I never heard of the pads destroying rotors even before you get down to the backing plate...oh well...

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

^^Good to know, thanks!

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Hey villo, any plans on cutting the passenger fender to match the driver side? Or are you still doing research on this design (determining whether or not it helps cool the brakes)?

Awesome to hear that your splitter really benefits the air flow.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I'm definitely going to do it, my air compressor is in need of a replacement and I really only want to make that cut with an air saw. That and I still am looking for the pressure gauge device thingy I need to test one side versus the other. I have more updates on this coming up fyi.

Nukem

Thanks for the shout out. Definetly apprieciate you giving me a ride. Car felt great in the corners. I can't wait to get out there and do it next year.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

^^^Sounds good man, hope the maintenance on the NSX goes to plan and you can make it out next spring. Hopefully my TL will be a whole new beast too.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

So I was thinking about the guy who cut the underside frame off of his hood (in Tim's diet thread) and was thinking about doing that AND also seeing if cutting some of the trunk lid frame was possible too. Being that the trunk is basically spring loaded on its hinges I think most don't realize that the trunk is a heavy bitch! And being that CF or Aluminum parts aren't really that likely, might as well see what we can do with the stock trunk right?

Let's here your thoughts on it.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The trunk on my CL isn't really that heavy, maybe 25lbs including the spoiler. It has heavy duty springs on it because the leverage isnt favorable.

But, less weight = better. Go for it

Id just strip it down to the bare bones, even get rid of the hinges, and just pin it down.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

I thought about doing that so my updated wing mounting would be considerably easier but not sure I just want to permanently pin it down. But yes, less is always more on my car lol

I bet the TL trunk is a good 40lbs by the feel of it without the springs on it.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Interesting, I have been looking into the same things recently.

I was inspired by this article mainly.
http://www.modified.com/features/061...0/viewall.html

Here are some ideas for you.




You just use a hole saw to cut the holes. I was trying to think what parts are not structural that can be swiss cheesed. You can also flare or chamfer the holes to increase strength if the parts are structural but don't think I will go that far.

Here is what I am working on now. Swiss cheesing my front bumper beam. It weighs 19 lbs.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

quite the interesting approach there for sure

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

I would like to see both hood and trunk bracing cut/trimmed off. Anything you can do with the rear door handles? or do the "sharkmouth" grill? delete side mirrors? remove reverse light bulbs and TL badge on trunk.

Also, maybe find a way to leave the front and rear sidemarkers in but cut the back of them off, leaving just the lens (no lights). The lens could keep the aerodynamics by sitting flush with the body lines.


And, if the rear deck, where the subwoofer sits is not serving a purpose structurely, then cut it out?


The diet continues...


Or what brian6speed said...lol "Swiss Cheese" it!

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Hood and trunk are definitely doable. And I have definitely been looking into an alternate grill layout. Not sure about some of the rear deck area and how structural it is though.

More diet topics would be some sort of quick removeable front windows so I could ditch the glass and gut the door steel. And a Lexan rear window would be a nice diet item as well.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

A lexan rear window will probably save a solid 20lbs, maybe more. That back glass is heavy.

I didnt realize you still have the stock mirrors. I'd definitely get rid of those in favor of some GT style mirrors. Should save a few pounds and it should benefit aerodynamics as well.

Do you still have an e-brake? If so, you could even lose the shoes, springs, handle, and cables. That should save a few pounds there. Just park the car in gear and use wheel chocks.

You might be able to ditch the stock taillights as well, make a CF plug like you did in the front, and put a red LED strip in it so people behind you can still see you braking. I'd make CF plugs for the side marker lights as well.

That is, assuming the aforementioned mods are approved in the class you race in.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You can also swap out those lug nuts for some lighter aluminum lug nuts if youre really crazy about weight.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Mirrors would be nice for sure. I just want to make sure they're not too small lol I actually like using the side mirrors on track.

E-brake is long gone and is a good amount of weight gone.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have experience with apr mirrors. They and most of these type of mirrors have concave lenses so even tho it is smaller the sight of view is not. Just have to make sure you mount them at right viewing angle. First time I mounted mine they were too far forward and not as far out as stock mirror so the passenger side could not be used properly by driver.

Btw mirrors subtracted 5.4 lbs.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Cool cool, definitely good info to have.