Heater Blows Cold Air(im freezing)
#43
What exactly does the diagnostic menu thing on the HVAC tell you?
Would it report stuff like this or is it "dumb"?
Would it report stuff like this or is it "dumb"?
#45
WNG - Thank you for the pix. I just picked up a low mileage 2003 TL NAV a couple weeks ago, intermittently on cold days, the heat wasnt working. i found the heater valve cable (closer to the middle of the car / firewall) on the 2003. It had a good buildup of dust. Cleaned it with a cloth, and sprayed the cable with WD40....Instantly I got heat! Much Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
tiwi marina (10-16-2020)
#46
Awesome. I had a similar problem. The heater would stop blowing hot air and would suddenly start working again. I found the het valve near the firewall and sprayed some WD40 on it. It's working now.
I also checked the blend motor under the passnger side dashboard. It seems to be moving, but should I spray some WD40 there as well?
I also checked the blend motor under the passnger side dashboard. It seems to be moving, but should I spray some WD40 there as well?
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tiwi marina (10-16-2020)
#47
Everyone here is awsome
Thanks guys, once again you have saved me time and money fixing a problem with my Acura.
I was planning on changing the thermostat on my TL today, but after reading this thread I no longer have to.
The Valve that is pictured on page 1 was the problem. I turned on the car then the air (to check position of the valve), then I turned over to heat and it didn't move. I wiggled it a little and it moved. I lubed it and now I have heat.
THANK YOU ALL.
I was planning on changing the thermostat on my TL today, but after reading this thread I no longer have to.
The Valve that is pictured on page 1 was the problem. I turned on the car then the air (to check position of the valve), then I turned over to heat and it didn't move. I wiggled it a little and it moved. I lubed it and now I have heat.
THANK YOU ALL.
The following users liked this post:
tiwi marina (10-16-2020)
#49
Advanced
Sorry for reviving such an old thread.
However, I'm having the exact problem as totaledTL and CanTex. Is there a solution to this specific problem?
totaledTL:
CanTex:
However, I'm having the exact problem as totaledTL and CanTex. Is there a solution to this specific problem?
totaledTL:
I've noticed on mine that if the temp. control is set somewhere between the extremes (not fully clockwise or counterclockwise) when I first start the car, and after it warms up, sometimes the heater won't work. Discovered that if I turn the temp. control fully clockwise (max. heat) & leave it there for a few seconds, then turn it back down to where I want it, it will work.
Slight variation on the theme: For "years" I've been freezing from the "Auto" A/C even on a Texas summer day. My fix all along has been to crank the control all the way over to 90, wait for the dampers to do their thing and heat starts coming out. Then I reset it to where I want. Works OK until I shut off and restart. The dealer wants $107 just to diagnose it - he says it would be cheaper to keep doing what I've been doing. Am I "the only one in the whole world" with this problem? ('01 TL with 117K miles.)
#50
Drifting
My valve worked. It occasionally would still do it but it wasn't that bad so I just live w/ it.
#51
Advanced
Purly anoying to have to do it everytime you get in the car and want some heat.
#52
Advanced
I took out my blend door motor today and checked all the links, everything moves smoothly by hand. Motor moves fine when you test it with 12V.
But I noticed that after you restart the car and it's suck in cold, all you have to do is nudge the arm that's connected to the heater valve (clockwise) and the motor will start moving to the heat position. But what is causing this? Seems like the signal to the motor is good, maybe something's wrong with the electrical trace inside the motor. Has any one tried replacing the blend door motor?
But I noticed that after you restart the car and it's suck in cold, all you have to do is nudge the arm that's connected to the heater valve (clockwise) and the motor will start moving to the heat position. But what is causing this? Seems like the signal to the motor is good, maybe something's wrong with the electrical trace inside the motor. Has any one tried replacing the blend door motor?
#53
Registered Nonmember
Here's another photo of the heater valve cable that tends to get stuck. I was changing my spark plugs recently and thought it would be a good opportunity to take a photo.
If you stand in front of the car, bend over and look at the rear spark plugs at the back of the engine. It's a bit lower than those spark plugs.
If you stand in front of the car, bend over and look at the rear spark plugs at the back of the engine. It's a bit lower than those spark plugs.
#55
If it doesn't respond to lubing, then ya may have to pull it out and replace it !
#56
Advanced
Take the cable off and leave the valve open (heat mode). Give it a try for a few days, if it's better replace or clean/lube the valve, it you still have the same issue, replace the blend door motor.
#57
I can't figure out how to do a post. Since my question is like all yours I'm going to ask right here, hope no one minds.
I have 1996 Acura TL 3.2 - My heater blows but doesn't blow hot air, it's cold. Also it over heat regularly and to the extreme when cold out. It also over heats when going slow, and really doesn't when on the highway and the coolant not low. It also, starts over heating and if I pull over and hit the brakes it will cool down immediately.
I'm aware of it may be the head gasket, but do not think it is. I have replaced radiator & radiator cap; belts; some hoses and thermostat. There is no oil in the water & the anti freeze does not foam. There is no anti freeze on the spark plugs & the plugs look great. It did not have a thermostat all summer if that - don't know if that could have any part just throwing it in there. Can you please help me???
I have 1996 Acura TL 3.2 - My heater blows but doesn't blow hot air, it's cold. Also it over heat regularly and to the extreme when cold out. It also over heats when going slow, and really doesn't when on the highway and the coolant not low. It also, starts over heating and if I pull over and hit the brakes it will cool down immediately.
I'm aware of it may be the head gasket, but do not think it is. I have replaced radiator & radiator cap; belts; some hoses and thermostat. There is no oil in the water & the anti freeze does not foam. There is no anti freeze on the spark plugs & the plugs look great. It did not have a thermostat all summer if that - don't know if that could have any part just throwing it in there. Can you please help me???
#58
Welcome Hardcorefinish !!!
Ya may want to have the cooling system pressure checked. Make sure that ya have the proper blend ratio 50% coolant/water and that the system is burped of any air pockets.
The 2 stage OEM T-stat is recommended. Check that the cooling fans are both operating along with the ECT thermo-sensor.
Ya may want to have the cooling system pressure checked. Make sure that ya have the proper blend ratio 50% coolant/water and that the system is burped of any air pockets.
The 2 stage OEM T-stat is recommended. Check that the cooling fans are both operating along with the ECT thermo-sensor.
#59
Advanced
Welcome Hardcorefinish !!!
Ya may want to have the cooling system pressure checked. Make sure that ya have the proper blend ratio 50% coolant/water and that the system is burped of any air pockets.
The 2 stage OEM T-stat is recommended. Check that the cooling fans are both operating along with the ECT thermo-sensor.
Ya may want to have the cooling system pressure checked. Make sure that ya have the proper blend ratio 50% coolant/water and that the system is burped of any air pockets.
The 2 stage OEM T-stat is recommended. Check that the cooling fans are both operating along with the ECT thermo-sensor.
Have you checked or replaced your water pump, the impeller may have separated inside.
To check if the system is flowing, take off a small coolant hose that's high up on the engine, like the ones going to the throttle body, then have a buddy start the car to see if coolant comes out. If nothings flowing you have a bad water pump.
#60
Intermediate
Heater problem
I have a question I just recently bought a 99 acura tl and later on discovered the best doesn't work I live in Vegas so I have a while to get it fixed however I have been doing some research and this is almost exactly what is going on with mine but the only thing I havnt heard anyone describe that I have is that when I turn the heater on I specifically here a click sound clicking with about a second in between each other for about 20 25 seconds and I was trying to figure out where it came from one day and I realized when I put my hand in between the glove box and the stereo I could actually feel it vibrating and clicking... Has anyone experienced this and this cord that goes into the firewall is this the solution to my problem? Thank you everybody for any advice in advance and I look forward to becoming a part of the acurazine community!
#61
Welcome UA4Project702 !!!
If ya could try to better explain your heater's actual problem......it may help us to help you.
This thread has various solutions to a heater blowing cold air, what if anything have you checked so far ?
If ya could try to better explain your heater's actual problem......it may help us to help you.
This thread has various solutions to a heater blowing cold air, what if anything have you checked so far ?
#62
Intermediate
Thank you 3.2TLC, I havnt had a chance to check out anything so far I just recently bought the car and have been working on getting a timing belt and water pump done as its at 140,000 miles and figuring out this power steering problem as they are more important and living in vegas right now I really don't consider it cold out so this problem has taken the back seat but I seen this thread read a few posts and figured I'll take a peek... Pretty much my air condition blows ice and works great but when I go to turn the heat on the first thing I notice everytime is a clicking sound coming from behind firewall in between the glove box and the deck... It lasts about 20 seconds then it will stop the clicking, it continued to blow air however you can set it up to 90 and it comes out like cold but not as cold as the AC blows and it isn't in the phase where it needs to warm up cause one day just to check I had a decent 30 minute drive to the other side of my city and the entire time I let it run and it stayed the same but that's about all it does. Let me know if you need any other information from me thank you again in advance
#63
Try cleaning and lubing the heater valve cable located underhood, in front of the firewall.
The following users liked this post:
UA4Project702 (03-24-2014)
#65
Advanced
You clicking is probably the blend door motor gears that have worn out. Try lubing the heater valve cable as this will lessen the effort on the motor, if that doesn't help disconnect the cable on the inside and manually move the valve to open and check for heat.
The following 2 users liked this post by bensonchuong:
3.2TLc (03-24-2014),
UA4Project702 (03-24-2014)
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