Majofo

that sucks.. so it helped at first but now it slips again?

I'm guessing your only hope now is to clean out the valve body.. maybe run a solvent then do a 3x3 in hopes of saving it.. How long did you have the CT S/C installed?

StYLeZz101

the sc only last for about 1500 miles and that was about 25k miles ago...the fluid was changed at 60k it was a 3x drain and refill at the dealer...i'm just goin to install all the stock parts and take it into the dealer and have them look at...thank god i got the extended warranty

wps007

That is not a transmission for a 04 thru 08 transmission they come with NO Oil Filter

Majofo

yes there is a filter and that sure looks like the 04-06 transmission to me.. so not sure what your talking about.. there should also be an inline filter probably leading from from the heater unit.. magnafine would be a best bet.

Majofo

Classic IHC Thread:
Related Thread:

woot427

iTrader: (5)

I order Saturday night as it was shipped today, so only two business days for processing -- not too bad. Now I just need to find someone (hopefully other than dealer) to this job for me

gungrave

I did changed mine last week and the shudder is still there but the shifting is a little better than before. The car has 41k, am i still under powertrain warranty? or it does expire once you pass the 40k and my car is an 05. I do want to take it to the dealer and have them change the tranny because it's getting annoying.

woot427

iTrader: (5)

standard warranty is 4yrs/50k ...extended warranty is 7yrs/100k


someone correct me if im wrong

Majofo

I believe the powertrain / drivetrain warranty is 6yrs / 70k miles..

WRXtranceformed

Depends. My CPO warranty is 100k miles on the powertrain.

NE14RoxCJ

Why can't people do this job themselves?? I changed the switches in just a few minutes without much more than a 10mm socket and ratchet and a crescent wrench. I can't say I've noticed any difference in the shifting. I also changed the trans filter. So to all of those who don't believe this trans has a filter, just go out and remove your air filter box and it is right there on the top of the trans. Three little bolts holding the cover on and a banjo fitting attaching the fluid line in the middle. Really simple job. Both of them, swiches and filter.

Anarchy919

iTrader: (4)

Some of you might want to also look into doing this also.

Link
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/transmission-solenoids-adjustment-728370/

It did more for my car then the the two Sensors did.

I hate cars

Two separate issues.

One is a fix for a problem.

One is tweaking shift timing/firmness

I need to read up on exactly what the adjustments do. Depending on what they control you can end up with binding or flares. If it's just line pressure to third and fourth than that's awesome and will probably be a very popular mod with the turbo guys. This is one of those areas you have to be very careful with, especially not knowing why they do what they do.

Majofo

yeah.. I've been trying to evaluate the 3/4 turn on the pressure control solenoids.. The sensors are a no brainer.. adjusting the pressure control solenoids is an unknown down the road..

sixsixfour

personally, touching the solenoids without knowing what the long term effects is more risky than swapping the sensors.

the sensors are more passive within the system. the solenoids are more active. you screw up by changing the line pressure too much or too little, it wont be pretty.

I hate cars

You're an engineer, right? I can't remember if I assumed that from your posts or if you mentioned it somewhere.

I'm wondering what the adjustment on the solenoids would do.... I'm assuming the only electrical adjustment would be resistance??? Or if they're mechanical it would be plunger/valve depth or spring preload.....

So the signal from the computer would be the same and get there at the same time as it normally would but what is it changing by turning the knob?

On topic, I've noticed a big difference in the mornings when it's dead cold. It used to shift so hard that I would manually lock it in third going through my neighborhood until it warmed up. Now it shifts just a little harder when cold but it's pretty normal.

I'm still loving this fix, the car just feels more solid. In the racing world they say "the best shift is the one you can't say anything about". I feel this is true with the TL now. It's not harsh, it's not soft, it just snaps into gear as it should.

Again, after talking about this with my builder, these sensors feed the computer data on when to apply and release the clutches and how quickly they need to be applied and released in miliseconds. That's basically a description of shift quality in a nutshell.

I hate cars

Agreed.

Majofo

Yeah I'm an EE.. I do reliability work for a big comp mfg.. adjusting the pressure control solenoid A & B affects shifting & shift speed. I believe by turning the PCS, his uncle has effectively increased the line pressure by closing / pinching off the valve (normally open - low pressure).. making the shifts snappier and occur at a lower speed.. the problem here is that the PCS should not be tweaked like that.. the solenoid itself might be taking harder wear.. line pressure is kept high while cruising in a final gear.. our electronic controls are very sophisticated.. throw in grade logic controls and who knows what the end consequence will be but I'm certainly not going to be doing this modification after reading more into the importance of the solenoids.. On the other hand, removing the PCS's to check for continuity and measure the resistance of the solenoid is very important and I think we should all do that routinely.
I've seen this solenoid adjustment thread being linked in other performance threads.. for anyone considering this easy tweak I would beware.. the upside doesn't out weigh the unknown long /short term downside.

Anarchy919

iTrader: (4)

Also on a side Note Sonnax recommeds this Solenoid Adjustment. Take a look at link.

http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TB-VOL1-NO8.pdf

I just took out the Adj Pentagonal screw on an extra Solenoid I had here and it's spring preload.

I hate cars

Of course they're going to recommend it, they sell the adjustment tool.

From the literature it looks like these are to compensate for wear in the valvebody/trans and factory soft shifts. Not a bad idea in theory.

I would be very careful. I may go and tweak mine 1/4 turn and see what happens but I don't suggest it to anyone who can't recognize the signs of binding and bad shift timing.

Anarchy919

iTrader: (4)

I agree with you it’s not something one would do without knowing what they are doing and without knowing when it needs to be put back to stock settings. I marked mine and know how to put it back to the OEM setting if it needs to go back I indexed mine and only did a ¼ turn.

lusid

Time to place an order! I've noticed slipping at 40.5k miles. Typically in the mornings like most have mentioned. Should be interesting... I've noticed this issue for some time, probably 2months or so.. kind of a holding the RPM's and random surging..

I'll keep you guys posted, this install won't occur till I get back from my vaca to Myrtle Beach from the 6/19-6/29.

Still waiting on transmission flush @ 50k.

Side note - I'm still under warranty, should I go to the dealership to try to figure this out? or.... tell them to replace that part? Thoughts?

I hate cars

This will make a difference in your shift quality and slipping/shuddering. It might not be a bad idea to print this thread out and take it to the dealer. If replacing the sensors under warranty can save them from replacing the entire trans under warranty they just might do it. If not, it's still well worth it to replace the sensors out of pocket.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

I'm gonna do this when I do my tranny flush soon. Can someone take the initiative to edit the first post in this thread with the part numbers needed for this simple fix that I Hate Cars has been nice enough to post. I think this thread is great and should be very easy for people who are just joining the thread.

I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.

sixsixfour

see the thread link in my sig. i made a thread with as close a DIY as i can get, complete with the part numbers

voigt

I got mine today, will install tomorrow. The parts guy asked what they were for. He said the service guys are always installing them but he never knew why. I forgot the washers so I stopped by a different Acura dealer and picked them up. While there I saw this.

Not my style

Majofo

lol.. man that grill is reminiscent of a patch job with a CTS.. you should post that pic in the WTF Car of the Day Thread..

sixsixfour

that picture is just all kinds of wrong.

I hate cars

I would be happy to or one of the moderators can edit the original post. It would be nice to include part numbers, a tally of the people it has helped and sixsixfour's link to the DIY.

voigt

Well I just got finished with the job. It might just be my mind but the shifts seem a lot smoother. I am glad I did this. Very easy.


I made this a lot harder than it really was. So here are some tips to help. It is easier if you take off the wheel. Remove the one black clip that is attaching the smaller wheel guard up front (You can see it in the first picture up towards the left corner). Then there are two 10mm screws holding a black cover on over the switch (there is a wire that runs through the cover). Remove the two screws and you can move the cover enough to make it work. Now loosen the switch with a 22mm wrench. Notice it doesn't take much for it to come loose. It's only tightened to 14 ft-lbs or 168 in-lbs. when this comes out you will begin to loose transmission fluid so have the other one ready to put right back on. You won't loose much. I wasn't fast and the bottom picture shows how much fluid I lost. when you tighten these up do not over-tighten. now move to the next one which is above and towards the front of the car. Put everything back together. Double check. Triple check. And you are done. That was easy. Oh, and use a pan to catch the fluid.

Majofo

^nice.. btw your compliance bushing looks toast..


good looking ATF btw..

voigt

Compliance bushings?

sixsixfour

the rubber seals on the suspension joint in this pic:



the rubber boots/seal looks ripped/torn to me. have a look at it when you get a chance.

Majofo

^ yeah.. I wouldn't worry about it so much.. but just keep you eyes on them for severe tears around and pay attention to steering feel on the highway.. vibrations and pull..



#10

Here's a related Azine thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

OK, I was about to order these for my 2005 TL but I noticed that people were giving to different part numbers.I would like to confirm.

Is it 28600-RAY-003, 28610-RAY-003

OR 28600-P7Z-003, 28600-P7W-003

madpoz

28600-RAY-003, 28610-RAY-003 work for sure. I installed them last weekend.

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, I have been waiting for this. What year is your TL?

I hate cars

Just an update after a couple weeks. Shifts are still great. One area it's really improved on is the downshifts using the manual mode. I rarely use it except when coming down the grapevine to maintain speed without hitting the brakes. Usually when it downshifts it's a hard jerk and really throws you forward. I usually try and rev match to minimize this. Now it downshifts very nice, it's hardly felt anymore. Also, gradelogic and automatic downshifting when exiting the freeway is seamless. I can see the tach move but barely feel the downshifts.

Interestingly, I was forced to run 89 octane in it the other day. Actually, not forced but I was offered a free tank but the card would only allow up to 89. There was a big reduction in power which resulted in the trans shifting hard. I guess it expects a certain power level at a certain throttle opening which results in hard shifts when the power level is lower than it should be. 5 minutes after filling up with 91 the power and smooth shifting was back.

Going to do my last drain and refill of Amsoil ATD for the next 100,000 miles pending the UOA results of this batch.

madpoz

2004

sixsixfour

that's good to know.

so far, Ive been just over 1K miles since the replacement and the car just feels "new". I can't explain it, but the car just drives smoother. i definitely can feel it was better than before. I agree on the tach movement - you see it move, but you dont feel the shifts as much. quite an improvement if I may add.