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I noticed whatever is in the picture I posted is making a ticking noise. What is it and should
it be ticking? What’s making the noise is where the red and black wires are going. It’s right in front of driver seat behind the brake fluid reserve. Thank you
So I’m thinking it’s the purge valve solenoid. I do have code p1457. Is it suppose to be ticking constantly? I’m going to try and test it today and the other components in the Evan system. Just want to know if it’s suppose to tick(noticeably with engine on). Thanks.... not sure if I mentioned it but it’s a 2003 Acura TL
Purge valve solenoids are known to tick when they go bad. Replace it and let us know if that corrects your problem. You might also consider replacing your gas cap if the problem doesn't correct.
It's more common to have a ticking noise coming from the purge valve than not. That in itself is not a good indication that the the valve is defective. I would suggest you check it according to a service manual.
Vent valve on canister is another common trouble-spot. Do some testing per the SM as 01acls suggests rather than throwing money at potentially good components.
Mine ticks as well. The first time I ever noticed it was right after I did the timing belt, so I assumed I really messed something up. I did a search on this board and found lots of posts from back in the early 2000's of people complaining about the ticking from the same part on brand new cars, so I figured it was normal. Now that I think of it, I guess it either stopped ticking or I just got used to it because I haven't though of it in a couple years now.
Ok so I have picked a service manual and a vacuum gauge. I also replaced the canister and the canister valve with no luck. Going to follow your advice and start from scratch with the SM. One question. I know the pcm is on the pass side under the glove box. How do I get to it? Also my friend said he may be able to let me borrow a smoke machine but he doesn’t have the attachments for the port. Would I be able to hook up the smoke tester right after/before the port to a hose right after the purge solenoid? Thank you
Last edited by Acuratl3535; 06-05-2018 at 08:11 PM.
You should check the gas cap seal for tears or cracks. You'll know the gas cap is good if the gas cap pressurises the fuel system.
The ECM is on the floor behind the center console. Accessible from both sides of the driver/passenger foot rest area. The center console doesn't need to be removed or torn apart for access to the ECM.
Here is the port I’m taking about. Can you give me the best place to hook up the machine without using the port and where I could use a vice grip to plug up the line?
I checked the gas cap and i do hear the vacuum after I open it. I thought the code would clear itself once I installed the canister and shut valve and start the car. Do I need to clear the code and then wait to see if it comes back on? Also I do feel like my car is burning a lot of gas and I feel a hesitation sometimes when I accelerate. I just hate seeing a CEL on lol.i was planning on hooking smoke machine right after the green port and plugging up the shut valve. Then I can check to see if there’s any leaks from the hose after the purge solenoid all the way right before the shut valve. That sound about right? Thanks for the help guys
Last edited by Acuratl3535; 06-06-2018 at 05:21 AM.
Pull the clock fuse for 10 seconds in the right front door jam fuse box to rest the code.
You can do that with the smoker but each section is blocked off by their respective valves so you would need to smoke all the different areas to check everything.
Yes, you should clear the code. May want to also perform (Idle relearn procedure), after pulling clock fuse. A vacuum, evidenced when removing the fuel tank cap, indicates, you should be good. Have you done an actual fuel mileage test? Really difficult to determine actual MPG, without checking, miles traveled, vs. fuel consumed.
The problem with your code is it's a perfect storm code. That code only happens when multiple items malfunction at the same time will you get that code and possibly under a certain circumstances too so it's hard to duplicate and get a diagnosis.
Another thing to consider is that when an evap code is reset, the system test includes several drive cycles with some very specific conditions that must occur for the test to either pass or fail before the CEL light comes back on or doesn't in the case of a pass. Can take several days to complete depending on drive frequency and types of trips. You'll know when the tests are complete when the code reader shows emissions test ready or something to that effect.
I checked the gas cap and i do hear the vacuum after I open it. I thought the code would clear itself once I installed the canister and shut valve and start the car. Do I need to clear the code and then wait to see if it comes back on? Also I do feel like my car is burning a lot of gas and I feel a hesitation sometimes when I accelerate. I just hate seeing a CEL on lol.i was planning on hooking smoke machine right after the green port and plugging up the shut valve. Then I can check to see if there’s any leaks from the hose after the purge solenoid all the way right before the shut valve. That sound about right? Thanks for the help guys
The vacuum sound is a good sign. Clear the code and wait a few drive cycles then recheck OBD with scanner and look for emission testing ready like I mentioned above. Fingers crossed.
Will do guys... I will report back once I get an idea of what’s going. The gas cap having vacuum is def a good sign cause I use to not hear it. Fingers crossed it’s fixed. Now on to a wheel bearing and a srs light and I should be good for a bit lol... just like not having that stupid orange light on anymore for now lol... thanks for all the help too, huge help.....is there anyway to check the canister
shut valve on the bench to open and close it? It holds vacuum and I hear it click when I hooked up jumper cable to it.im guessing if that’s my problem that it’s stuck open maybe. I would just like to know what happened to it for my own sake lol. Thanks for all the help guys....
Last edited by Acuratl3535; 06-07-2018 at 12:18 AM.
You should check the cansiter and valve as an assembly, there could be a leak in the seal or canister. As an assembly it should hold vacuum at the canister port.
To check the valve supply power to the white wire and ground the black wire. With the canister port capped. You will then draw a vacuum at the valve, once enough vacuum is present the black wire should drop to 1.5 bolts for a minimum or 20 seconds so you need to monitor the voltage on the black wire.
SRS
Most likely a defective seat belt buckle. The seat belt buckle mechanisms are warranty for the life of the vehicle. As long as the car is still operational the warranty is still valid. However, the dealership will charge you a diagnostic fee. If it is the seat belt buckle then there is no charge for the repair but if it's not then you will be bill for the diagnosis and the repair. I would say you have a 90 percent chance that it is the seat belt buckle. Unless your car was in an accident before the SRS light came on.
Wheel bearings... You might want to try the brand Timken wheel bearing hub assembly.
06-03-2018, 12:58 AM
