Drewflemmer

I've got a maintenance day planned once some parts show up. Was looking for some insight into the order I should proceed and any other adivce you guys can give me.

I have the Outlaw spacer kit coming, (IM and TB), so I was planning to follow the DIY install with EGR port cleaning. I've also got a couple cans of seafoam on the shelf for the vac hose and the gas tank. And lastly, I have a set of new NGK Iridium IX plugs.

I was thinking of doing the spacers, then the seafoam, then opening it back up and putting in the new plugs?

Couple questions about the plugs. The guy at NAPA said they were pre gapped and that I should not mess with them. Is that true? Second, what should I torque the plugs to? the IM? the TB?

Thanks for your help!

YeuEmMaiMai

I installed my plugs today and it was a pita. it would have been alot easier if

a. strut bar was not in the way (it has 4 mounting points on the CL-S 2 on the firewall and 2 on strut twers)
b. some cable controlled thing was not mounted over the middle rear coil
c. ps hose bracket not in the way of the third coil pack

I also did the cabin filter for the second time in 90K miles and dropped some AUTOMATIC TRANS seafoam in the gas tank and engine seafoam treatment for the engine before changing plugs.

I did not gap my plugs as they are already pregapped.

pitmen

thhe plugs are a piece of cake. didn't take me long, you just have to lay a bit on the engine, i don't believe i moved anything around either. even if the plugs are pre-gapped, check them to make sure anyways. better safe then sorry.

01tl4tl

seafoam it first, then wait a few days for crud to finish blowing out
gas tank use 1 can to just under 1/2 tank ~ 8 gallons

then IM spacers, and EGR port cleaning of the manifold while its apart
diy has torque specs

plugs are easy if you have a 3 and 6" socket extensions and a plug socket with rubber core...you can lower the tool in pieces into tight area--torque 14ft lbs
~1 foot long piece of Vac tubing on top of new plug makes install easy- lower it in and tighten with fingertip control to prevent cross threading
use a dab of plug anti sieze on middle threads
See the DIY section for all these jobs

first cleaner, then parts needing cleaning, then new parts

NGK Iridium are pregapped - so as long as the cardboard cover is there, and compare each plug to each other- should be ok
if an electrode is bent down- thats bad- go swap for new plug
dont even try to regap these- if its wrong go back for new one on warranty

ok to remove the strut tower bar while doing the plugs for extra elbow room
lots of tips on plug change in diy
I suggest do 1 front for practice- then the rears- then remaining fronts

NOTE CAUTION WARNING DANGER!!!!!!!!!!!
these coils are like lightbulbs inside- a hard setting down can damage it
Place gently on soft surface like towel or bubble wrap
If you remove several coils at once, make sure to mark so they go back on the same place

diy thread list link: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

01tl4tl

Yeu- you used trans tune in the GAS?? whats the result and logic?

have you tried trans tune in the trans?

YeuEmMaiMai

that stuff is loaded with detergents and will make short work of cleaning fuel injectors. I usually dump 1 can in every time I go to Michigan (about once a year or 10K miles) and when I did the seafaom for the first time @ 94K miles, there was only 2 puffs of smoke. I'm telling you that stuff works wonders....

trans is toast and trans tune isn't going to fix that....lol I have never heard of a trans treatment effectively repairing any form of slipping.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

I would...

Seafoam.
Then spacers.
Clean the IM while you have it apart.
Seafoam again.
Plugs.

The strut tower bar is in the way, but it's not that bad. I thought the IMRC motor was worse. Remove that with the 2 bolts holding it and you'll have better access to the rear middle plug.

Drewflemmer

Thanks guys, I guess your right, seafoam is cheap, may as well do it twice. Which vac hose do I use? I have a CAI so its diff than the DIY.

YeuEmMaiMai

take the engine cover off and use the one that curves around and goes to the brake booster on my car it was a u shaped hose so i rotated it around and stuck it in my clear bottle of seafoam and let it gently suck it in over about 8 minutes for 3/4 can........put the rest in the oil

01tl4tl

Yeu has a strange car- the normal TL has a valve in the brake booster line- should prevent getting seafoam in thru it

Follow the DIY- you are dealing with the master vac port metal NIPPLE located on the TB to manifold connection
Will be a `little finger` sized hose with a clamp you squeeze together to open (use pliers)
All other clamps near there have a `screwdriver to operate mechanism` type clamp

remove that hose- seafoam goes in the nipple to intake
Use small piece of hose attached to the nipple and into a clear plastic bottle with the seafoam in it, (keep hose above liquid) or buy seafoam aerosol -Deep Creep
and spray thru same nipple

Also remove your cai to TB -spray clean the TB air plate inside

please see DIY section for complete pics and info

Drewflemmer

I've read the DIY and your notes like 4 times 01tl, thanks for the great info. I'll try and post a pic because my car seems to look a little different with the CAI. Theres no hose directly on the TB as per the pics in the DIY. Just gotta teach myself to use photobucket.

01tl4tl

there has to be an master vac inlet port near the TB- might be on the intake manifold not on the spacer--
has nothing to do with your CAI

And that metal nipple may point and curve any number of directions

alternate to master vacport
is remove the cai in your case- or rubber snout from air filter to TB on regular cars.
and shoot seafoam aerosol (deep creep can, or homemade w/spray bottle and seafoam)Direct into the throat opening of the TB-
that will for sure get all the same places as master vac port, and the TB air plate and inch or 2 past it that vacport method may miss

??? you read my many post and still managed to pour it down the vac hose! not vac port..
I guess we need to change the DIY and add that info~ beside the pics and arrows in the DIY
Then sat at idle for a while on startup, then did full redline runs--
cant belive I said to do any of that!!

YeuEmMaiMai

I kid you not man when I took the cover off there was a u shaped hose that plugged into a long pipe that went over to the brake booster. it was about 4" long (the hose) i left one end attached to the TB and the other end into the clear container of seafoam and let it slowly suck air and liquid. took about 8 minutes to suck down 3/4 can and then engine stumbled a few times. I put the remainder in the oil and will change that out here in a few weeks when I do my rear brakes.

Drewflemmer

Haha I haven't actually put any seafoam into the car yet just getting my ducks in a row first.

01tl4tl

according to fsttmys1- there is a ck valve in the brake booster line
I go by his knowledge

Yeu- try it thru the TB throat instead of vac port- use a plastic spray bottle for make your own deep creep DIY~

that also cleans the air plate (get both sides and edges) and lubes the pivot hinges on the air plate inside TB- important

I realize you know these things- Im writing towards noobs who read this thread

01tl4tl

I believe (without going out to look)
the brake booster vac source is at the `front` of the engine-crank pully end
on the intake manifold?

lazer plugs-hancook tires and funky plumbing,,your car is not stock or normal!!

YeuEmMaiMai

lemme show you man



#4 in the picture

lol man I loved those hankook tires....before the winter came lol...... those things stick like glue when it is dry out but when the snow comes OMG don't want to be in the car then lol (they loose about 2/5 of their grip lol