A-107: DIY-Seafoam on 3rd gen TL ('06 5AT specifically)
#402
i just got done seafoaming my car, she's at 56k on the odo finally, smoked quite a bit when i took off after the idle in second gear and while driving around for about 6 minutes, before the wot runs. during my wot runs she didn't really smoke much at all. but now i'm done, and looking forwards to getting back from GA and SC (vacation) and doing my turn-around seafoaming again. then good for a year!
#403
Racer
Ok so I just did the seafoam, this is my second time. The engine died twice in the process. But after I waited for about 20 minutes I turned my engine on and there was a little yellow orangeish light I think it's a sensor light? How can I get rid of this and is there something wrong with my car?? Please help thank you!
#406
needs more blowout drive' --allowed to sit too long--10-15 min max
Stalling twice is fine- dont worry-means you were running the max amount it could handle
please read DIY again carefully and drive it a few days to self clear the light
Stalling twice is fine- dont worry-means you were running the max amount it could handle
please read DIY again carefully and drive it a few days to self clear the light
#407
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
just purchased an 07 tl type s...has 35k on it...was reading up on this thread and wondering if it's a good time to use seafoam? i think i know all the steps and procedures, was gonna do the gas tank, intake, n oil tank. then do an oil change/filter the next day.
just wasn't sure if i should do this since i only have 35k at this point n the car runs like a top. think i'll notice a difference if i do seafoam or should i wait until i hit 50k, when i'll be doing all sorts of maintenance...spark plugs, trans drain n fill, f+r rotors n pads, etc...
thanks for your input all.
just wasn't sure if i should do this since i only have 35k at this point n the car runs like a top. think i'll notice a difference if i do seafoam or should i wait until i hit 50k, when i'll be doing all sorts of maintenance...spark plugs, trans drain n fill, f+r rotors n pads, etc...
thanks for your input all.
#408
Suzuka Master
Just Seafoamed my 06 TL. 8 oz. in the vacuum tube and 8 oz. in 1/4 tank of gas. Noticed some good smoke when leaving my neighborhood, but no other affects so far. I'll try the 6 oz. to the oil before my next oil change.
I also did my 02 CL-S. Did about 6 oz. in the vacuum tube and maybe 3 oz. in the oil. I plan on changing it Sat. I didn't want to put too much in since I've never done anything like that in it's 96K mile life. I have a little less than half a can left for the fuel tank when it gets down to 1/4.
The only problem I noticed is now my CL-S idles too low at around 600-700 rpm. It does that stop light sputter where it dips to about 500 and then revs a little and then dips and revs and so on. Anybody experienced that issue? Did it clear itself up?
I also did my 02 CL-S. Did about 6 oz. in the vacuum tube and maybe 3 oz. in the oil. I plan on changing it Sat. I didn't want to put too much in since I've never done anything like that in it's 96K mile life. I have a little less than half a can left for the fuel tank when it gets down to 1/4.
The only problem I noticed is now my CL-S idles too low at around 600-700 rpm. It does that stop light sputter where it dips to about 500 and then revs a little and then dips and revs and so on. Anybody experienced that issue? Did it clear itself up?
#409
Cruiser
I just did a fuel system clean with oil change, spark plug replacement, air filter recharge and clean element change...below is the prep and a video, my daughter is narrating ..
As you can see in the video everything went as others have have said. After running the sip, sip method I immediately noticed a difference in the start up. I ran the blow out run and then drained the oil and replaced spark plugs
[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcpO_PD2j7E[/URL]
As you can see in the video everything went as others have have said. After running the sip, sip method I immediately noticed a difference in the start up. I ran the blow out run and then drained the oil and replaced spark plugs
[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcpO_PD2j7E[/URL]
#410
so uhh... the OP diy is kind of confusing. you remove the vacuum hose then put on another hose then stop? then put seafoam in your gas tank? thats what i've seemed to gather from the OP
#411
Cruiser
you don't stop after you connect the clear hose....check out my video it shows how to do it...
#412
check this link out
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
no way I would put one of those in my car.......
#414
thanks
Thanks for posting your experience. Your narrator did a great job =) Very cute.
Here are my thoughts. When you sipped the foam into the intake, you were revving the engine. I would think that revving it would cause the seafoam to enter at too light a strength. My understanding is that you're supposed to let as much seafoam coat the internals as possible so that it can dissolve as much gunk as it can. When you rev the engine, you're making the seafoam leave before it has done its job. Because, aren't you supposed to let it sit for a while before starting it back up? I would think that if you didn't have your engine hiccuping and stalling, shooting off error codes, you didn't get as much seafoam inside as you could have.
Here are my thoughts. When you sipped the foam into the intake, you were revving the engine. I would think that revving it would cause the seafoam to enter at too light a strength. My understanding is that you're supposed to let as much seafoam coat the internals as possible so that it can dissolve as much gunk as it can. When you rev the engine, you're making the seafoam leave before it has done its job. Because, aren't you supposed to let it sit for a while before starting it back up? I would think that if you didn't have your engine hiccuping and stalling, shooting off error codes, you didn't get as much seafoam inside as you could have.
I just did a fuel system clean with oil change, spark plug replacement, air filter recharge and clean element change...below is the prep and a video, my daughter is narrating ..
As you can see in the video everything went as others have have said. After running the sip, sip method I immediately noticed a difference in the start up. I ran the blow out run and then drained the oil and replaced spark plugs
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcpO_PD2j7E[/URL]
As you can see in the video everything went as others have have said. After running the sip, sip method I immediately noticed a difference in the start up. I ran the blow out run and then drained the oil and replaced spark plugs
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcpO_PD2j7E[/URL]
#415
Cruiser
Thanks for posting your experience. Your narrator did a great job =) Very cute.
Here are my thoughts. When you sipped the foam into the intake, you were revving the engine. I would think that revving it would cause the seafoam to enter at too light a strength. My understanding is that you're supposed to let as much seafoam coat the internals as possible so that it can dissolve as much gunk as it can. When you rev the engine, you're making the seafoam leave before it has done its job. Because, aren't you supposed to let it sit for a while before starting it back up? I would think that if you didn't have your engine hiccuping and stalling, shooting off error codes, you didn't get as much seafoam inside as you could have.
Here are my thoughts. When you sipped the foam into the intake, you were revving the engine. I would think that revving it would cause the seafoam to enter at too light a strength. My understanding is that you're supposed to let as much seafoam coat the internals as possible so that it can dissolve as much gunk as it can. When you rev the engine, you're making the seafoam leave before it has done its job. Because, aren't you supposed to let it sit for a while before starting it back up? I would think that if you didn't have your engine hiccuping and stalling, shooting off error codes, you didn't get as much seafoam inside as you could have.
#416
hmmm
I'm pretty sure that the reason you sip it in is so that the seafoam enters at the highest concentration possible. Because if you tried to put it in through the gas tank, it wouldn't go in because the engine wouldn't run on just seafoam, and that's why in the seafoam tutorial, they mention the engine possibly stalling during the sipping.
In my mental image of the inside of an engine, I see carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, so it would seem that just spraying a seafoam/gasoline mixture on them wouldn't be enough to completely remove them. It's like prewashing caked-on food on dirty dishes. You gotta let the dishes soak for a while in a detergent solution.
In my mental image of the inside of an engine, I see carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, so it would seem that just spraying a seafoam/gasoline mixture on them wouldn't be enough to completely remove them. It's like prewashing caked-on food on dirty dishes. You gotta let the dishes soak for a while in a detergent solution.
from my understanding, that's y you put half or 1/4 bottle in the tank so when you run it down the road you work it through the entire system...I think the sip method is to clean off the injectors at the source and when the seafoam cycles through the fuel system it flushes the rest out....
#417
putting the seafoam in your gas tank is mainly for cleaning injectors and valves (cause the detergent goes through the injector and gets sprayed on the valves)
#419
Instructor
All these posts are great. I've done it too - 1 bottle gas tank, 1/2 intake, 1/2 oil 30 min before oil change.
Not a lot of smoke after intake - drove for 30 min hard - 4000 rpm
After seafoam in the crankcase - changed oil - changed sparkplugs - also had timing belt/tesioners/water pump/thermostat done
The good - it seems to have more pull (torque) and weird or not it shifts better (manual)
The bad ... my MPG's went down - I use to get 30 mpg hwy (doing constant 80) and now i'm getting 27 - on the same stretch of road
Pretty weird. I'll keep watching it
Opinions ?
Not a lot of smoke after intake - drove for 30 min hard - 4000 rpm
After seafoam in the crankcase - changed oil - changed sparkplugs - also had timing belt/tesioners/water pump/thermostat done
The good - it seems to have more pull (torque) and weird or not it shifts better (manual)
The bad ... my MPG's went down - I use to get 30 mpg hwy (doing constant 80) and now i'm getting 27 - on the same stretch of road
Pretty weird. I'll keep watching it
Opinions ?
#420
AVB for President!
I have perhaps a really dumb question:
When doing the "hot foot" drive (4000 RPM on 3rd gear for 10 minutes), will I have to use the SS mode in order to maintain 3rd gear at 4000 RPM? I ask this because under normal driving conditions, 4000 RPM is around 100 MPH!
When doing the "hot foot" drive (4000 RPM on 3rd gear for 10 minutes), will I have to use the SS mode in order to maintain 3rd gear at 4000 RPM? I ask this because under normal driving conditions, 4000 RPM is around 100 MPH!
#421
AVB for President!
I just re-read several pages of this thread. Indeed I'll need to use SS mode.
#424
Team Owner
This thread is the blind leading the blind. It's still crazy people fall for this crap. I guess if I had too much money and nothing better to do I would stick a liquid through my air intake and pretend it made the car run better.
#426
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
#427
Just seafoamed my 2000 3.2 TL. It has about 217K miles. I did half a can into the intake manifold, the other half into the oil crank case. Boy did it smoke up after the treatment!!
The motor oil is only 2700 miles old, but I was thinking that after running seafoam in the crankcase that it was going to turn black (remember my car has 217K miles). However, the color of the oil was still pretty good.
Nonetheless, I'm going to change the oil out tomorrow.
The engine seems to run smoother and the idle is not as rough anymore. I'll post more later.
The motor oil is only 2700 miles old, but I was thinking that after running seafoam in the crankcase that it was going to turn black (remember my car has 217K miles). However, the color of the oil was still pretty good.
Nonetheless, I'm going to change the oil out tomorrow.
The engine seems to run smoother and the idle is not as rough anymore. I'll post more later.
#428
Team Owner
Just seafoamed my 2000 3.2 TL. It has about 217K miles. I did half a can into the intake manifold, the other half into the oil crank case. Boy did it smoke up after the treatment!!
The motor oil is only 2700 miles old, but I was thinking that after running seafoam in the crankcase that it was going to turn black (remember my car has 217K miles). However, the color of the oil was still pretty good.
Nonetheless, I'm going to change the oil out tomorrow.
The engine seems to run smoother and the idle is not as rough anymore. I'll post more later.
The motor oil is only 2700 miles old, but I was thinking that after running seafoam in the crankcase that it was going to turn black (remember my car has 217K miles). However, the color of the oil was still pretty good.
Nonetheless, I'm going to change the oil out tomorrow.
The engine seems to run smoother and the idle is not as rough anymore. I'll post more later.
#429
I would not recommend using anything on top cleaner or any cleaner in the crank case like IHC says there is more risk involved... Just use couple cans of Seafoam in the gas tank, use good quality premium fuel like Shell, Cheveron, BP I guess, or any toptier gas and use good quality oil either synthetic or regular dino oil
#430
First I've heard of this
So you don't think it can clean anything off of the engine worth cleaning? People here at this forum seem to think that Seafoam is liquid gold.
#431
Team Owner
In the crank case, the only thing worth cleaning usually is the piston ring land area. This can cause stuck rings and a loss in mpg and power. However, this is something that usually shows up well past 100,000 miles, especially on the great modern oils and gasoline out there.
This can be 100% prevented and cleaned up if it's already happened by using an ester based oil like Redline or Motul. Solvents are not recommended to go in the crank case. They reduce the HTHS and film strength of the oil along with viscosity. They are considered a "harsh" cleaner. You don't want anything in there that's marketed as cleaning up the crank case in 30 minutes. The good cleaners are usually the esters that take a couple oil change intervals to clean.
Through the intake, you have the intake manifold, intake valves, and combustion chamber.
You're not going to get significant enough buildup in the intake manifold to affect performance until somewhere north of 400,000 miles if ever.
Intake valves are mostly cleaned by the fuel hitting them from the injectors. Fuel quality is more important here but it's one reason that Seafoam or whatever you choose is fine in the tank. Again, useing a top tier fuel for the car's whole life will reduce or eliminate the need for fuel system/intake valve cleaning.
Another source of intake valve deposits is oil through the PCV system. Use an oil with a ultra low NOACK value (evaporation basically) (Redline, Motul lol) and you greatly reduce intake valve deposits. An oil separator also accomplishes this.
Combustion chamber....this is the big one. There are usually not significant deposits below a few hundred thousand miles. Our cars are fuel injected and use wideband 02 senosors. They're in closed loop feedback mode within a few seconds of startup. Fuel metering is extremely accurate. You don't have to worry about super rich mixtures carboning up the combustion chamber like you did in the carbureted days.
Eventually, on unleaded fuel, you will need to de-carbonize but there are no 3G Tls in existance that need it yet unless it has had some sort of FI malfunction.
It's almost funny how some people with 20,000 or less miles feel a difference from Seafoam. I've had enough engines apart at 20,000 miles to know that they still look band new inside. It would be the same as taking your brand new TL off the showroom floor, putting Seafoam through it and saying you felt a difference with 5 miles on the odo.
The following users liked this post:
JMiles_T (10-11-2017)
#432
Instructor
LOL. It does seem that way.
In the crank case, the only thing worth cleaning usually is the piston ring land area. This can cause stuck rings and a loss in mpg and power. However, this is something that usually shows up well past 100,000 miles, especially on the great modern oils and gasoline out there.
This can be 100% prevented and cleaned up if it's already happened by using an ester based oil like Redline or Motul. Solvents are not recommended to go in the crank case. They reduce the HTHS and film strength of the oil along with viscosity. They are considered a "harsh" cleaner. You don't want anything in there that's marketed as cleaning up the crank case in 30 minutes. The good cleaners are usually the esters that take a couple oil change intervals to clean.
Through the intake, you have the intake manifold, intake valves, and combustion chamber.
You're not going to get significant enough buildup in the intake manifold to affect performance until somewhere north of 400,000 miles if ever.
Intake valves are mostly cleaned by the fuel hitting them from the injectors. Fuel quality is more important here but it's one reason that Seafoam or whatever you choose is fine in the tank. Again, useing a top tier fuel for the car's whole life will reduce or eliminate the need for fuel system/intake valve cleaning.
Another source of intake valve deposits is oil through the PCV system. Use an oil with a ultra low NOACK value (evaporation basically) (Redline, Motul lol) and you greatly reduce intake valve deposits. An oil separator also accomplishes this.
Combustion chamber....this is the big one. There are usually not significant deposits below a few hundred thousand miles. Our cars are fuel injected and use wideband 02 senosors. They're in closed loop feedback mode within a few seconds of startup. Fuel metering is extremely accurate. You don't have to worry about super rich mixtures carboning up the combustion chamber like you did in the carbureted days.
Eventually, on unleaded fuel, you will need to de-carbonize but there are no 3G Tls in existance that need it yet unless it has had some sort of FI malfunction.
It's almost funny how some people with 20,000 or less miles feel a difference from Seafoam. I've had enough engines apart at 20,000 miles to know that they still look band new inside. It would be the same as taking your brand new TL off the showroom floor, putting Seafoam through it and saying you felt a difference with 5 miles on the odo.
In the crank case, the only thing worth cleaning usually is the piston ring land area. This can cause stuck rings and a loss in mpg and power. However, this is something that usually shows up well past 100,000 miles, especially on the great modern oils and gasoline out there.
This can be 100% prevented and cleaned up if it's already happened by using an ester based oil like Redline or Motul. Solvents are not recommended to go in the crank case. They reduce the HTHS and film strength of the oil along with viscosity. They are considered a "harsh" cleaner. You don't want anything in there that's marketed as cleaning up the crank case in 30 minutes. The good cleaners are usually the esters that take a couple oil change intervals to clean.
Through the intake, you have the intake manifold, intake valves, and combustion chamber.
You're not going to get significant enough buildup in the intake manifold to affect performance until somewhere north of 400,000 miles if ever.
Intake valves are mostly cleaned by the fuel hitting them from the injectors. Fuel quality is more important here but it's one reason that Seafoam or whatever you choose is fine in the tank. Again, useing a top tier fuel for the car's whole life will reduce or eliminate the need for fuel system/intake valve cleaning.
Another source of intake valve deposits is oil through the PCV system. Use an oil with a ultra low NOACK value (evaporation basically) (Redline, Motul lol) and you greatly reduce intake valve deposits. An oil separator also accomplishes this.
Combustion chamber....this is the big one. There are usually not significant deposits below a few hundred thousand miles. Our cars are fuel injected and use wideband 02 senosors. They're in closed loop feedback mode within a few seconds of startup. Fuel metering is extremely accurate. You don't have to worry about super rich mixtures carboning up the combustion chamber like you did in the carbureted days.
Eventually, on unleaded fuel, you will need to de-carbonize but there are no 3G Tls in existance that need it yet unless it has had some sort of FI malfunction.
It's almost funny how some people with 20,000 or less miles feel a difference from Seafoam. I've had enough engines apart at 20,000 miles to know that they still look band new inside. It would be the same as taking your brand new TL off the showroom floor, putting Seafoam through it and saying you felt a difference with 5 miles on the odo.
This is too funny. The blind leading the blind for sure. I put some in my gas tank for a fuel injector cleaner and, I must admit, I did put some in through the intake manifold vacuum, I didn't notice any benefits. But I do feel like it is actually risky to be sucking a liquid into the manifold in quantities that will choke out the engine. I believe that when the engine starts bucking and choking, you could be doing some internal damage. Maybe even hydrolocking the pistons which could bend a rod. This would not be worth deleting a few microns of carbon. I've had this argument before, but I still feel it to be a potential concern.
#433
Instructor
just did the seafoam last night. put 8oz into gas tank, 8oz into crank, and 8oz into vacuum tube. car stalled once and once i let the car sit i too it for a little drive.. once i got onto the road i hear a medium pitched rattle noise from the front but as i drove for 2 minutes the sound went away (thank god).. but the car let out a big cloud of smoke and after that just little patches of smoke basically.. getting an oil change today and im waiting to see any different results.. how often can i do it? i have 8oz left and i am getting an oil change today, am i able to put the rest in the gas tank or crank only just to finish the bottle up?
#434
Instructor
just did the seafoam last night. put 8oz into gas tank, 8oz into crank, and 8oz into vacuum tube. car stalled once and once i let the car sit i too it for a little drive.. once i got onto the road i hear a medium pitched rattle noise from the front but as i drove for 2 minutes the sound went away (thank god).. but the car let out a big cloud of smoke and after that just little patches of smoke basically.. getting an oil change today and im waiting to see any different results.. how often can i do it? i have 8oz left and i am getting an oil change today, am i able to put the rest in the gas tank or crank only just to finish the bottle up?
GAS TANK for Goodness sake! You absolutely do not want to run this during your entire oil interval, as a matter of fact, putting it in your crank case at all is a pretty harsh way to clean out your engine. Vac tube would be useless, so just put it in your tank, where it's most useful anyway. You can always just save it for later, when it'll have more cleaning effect.
#435
FTW
All i've done with seafoam is add a few OZ's to every full tank of gas and my MPG's have increased .5 - 1 more mpg. That's all I've done and I'm sticking to that.
#436
Team Owner
just did the seafoam last night. put 8oz into gas tank, 8oz into crank, and 8oz into vacuum tube. car stalled once and once i let the car sit i too it for a little drive.. once i got onto the road i hear a medium pitched rattle noise from the front but as i drove for 2 minutes the sound went away (thank god).. but the car let out a big cloud of smoke and after that just little patches of smoke basically.. getting an oil change today and im waiting to see any different results.. how often can i do it? i have 8oz left and i am getting an oil change today, am i able to put the rest in the gas tank or crank only just to finish the bottle up?
#437
Instructor
Seafoaming
I just bought a can of Seafoam to use on my car to clean some of the carbon and crap out of the engine. I was wondering if someone can post a picture of the spot to use the seafoam since I don't really know where the vacuum line is. The car is a 2007 TL Type-S.
Also i was wondering if anyone has done this and put it in the oil and what your opinion of using this product is.
Thanks guys
Also i was wondering if anyone has done this and put it in the oil and what your opinion of using this product is.
Thanks guys
#438
I wouldn't use it on my cars.
Stick with the vacuum line and put some in the gas tank. It thins out oil. If you do mix it with your oil, do an oil change.
This isn't my video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ1wpO6Oj8E
Stick with the vacuum line and put some in the gas tank. It thins out oil. If you do mix it with your oil, do an oil change.
This isn't my video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ1wpO6Oj8E
#439
Just got done doing the Seafoam on both of my TL's. If nothing else, it was fun to see all the smoke that came out when I took the cars for a spin. Hoping to see an increase in MPG's on both cars!
#440
www.colradodetail.com
So IHC would you say dont do this? not worth it? have you ever done it?