A-107: DIY-Seafoam on 3rd gen TL ('06 5AT specifically)
#161
The Vac is coming direct from the engine intake manifold, thru the large metal tube at the Throttle Body-
You attach a short length of tubing to that metal nipple, then other end of the hose goes into the container of seafoam.
Some like to use a sports drink type clear plastic bottle, or a clear hose- to see how much stuff is getting sucked into the system at a time. Small sips work MUCH better than big gulps.
The hose you disconnect is not affected by sitting there during the process, just make sure to put it back on and secure with the hose clamp, then replace the big plastic engine cover.
Wash hands and that should be about 15 minutes- time to go have the fun drive now.
Let it idle until it sounds smooth and can gently rev to 2000, then start driving at 2000 till it runs without bad noises, 4000 rpm, in 2nd gear on side road is fine, 10 minutes of that and some runs from low rpm up to 5000, several of those, 10 mph to 40-50 mph is effective,, then drive normal. 1st timers repeat the intake and gas method in 2000 miles, then you're good for a year. Ok to use in the gas whenever you want, before/during a trip or 5000 miles.
The engine will pull the stuff from the can - so raise and lower the can onto the hose.
It will make sense when you do it. Caution: It gets hot standing over the front of the car doing this, a longer piece of hose will work too and keep you at a safer distance.
You attach a short length of tubing to that metal nipple, then other end of the hose goes into the container of seafoam.
Some like to use a sports drink type clear plastic bottle, or a clear hose- to see how much stuff is getting sucked into the system at a time. Small sips work MUCH better than big gulps.
The hose you disconnect is not affected by sitting there during the process, just make sure to put it back on and secure with the hose clamp, then replace the big plastic engine cover.
Wash hands and that should be about 15 minutes- time to go have the fun drive now.
Let it idle until it sounds smooth and can gently rev to 2000, then start driving at 2000 till it runs without bad noises, 4000 rpm, in 2nd gear on side road is fine, 10 minutes of that and some runs from low rpm up to 5000, several of those, 10 mph to 40-50 mph is effective,, then drive normal. 1st timers repeat the intake and gas method in 2000 miles, then you're good for a year. Ok to use in the gas whenever you want, before/during a trip or 5000 miles.
The engine will pull the stuff from the can - so raise and lower the can onto the hose.
It will make sense when you do it. Caution: It gets hot standing over the front of the car doing this, a longer piece of hose will work too and keep you at a safer distance.
#162
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My 04 with 74k has been starting a little rough lately so I decided to seafoam it today. I followed the instructions in this thread. It took about 10 minutes to let the engine "sip" half the can. After waiting 15 minutes I started the motor and gave it gas. I smoked out the whole neighborhood. I guess my car really needed it. Then I took it on the highway and did some 4k to 5k rpm pulls. I plan on doing it again in the vacuum line and the oil when my MID says 20%.
#164
Help give me an idea of what the purpose of the seafoam is? and when is it recommended. Sorry for the noob questions I read the diy posts and the happy mpg and smooth motor increases.
#165
I drive a Subata.
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Originally Posted by say when
Help give me an idea of what the purpose of the seafoam is? and when is it recommended. Sorry for the noob questions I read the diy posts and the happy mpg and smooth motor increases.
#166
Originally Posted by JS + TL
Did you read this thread's page 1?
#167
try reading the seafoam thread you are on now
We discuss this in depth- how to do, how much, and when to repeat
eff the internet- search acurazine for acura answers~
We discuss this in depth- how to do, how much, and when to repeat
eff the internet- search acurazine for acura answers~
#168
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okay, did the 2nd seafoam treatment 2k later as well as 4oz in the crankcase. 1.2k miles worth of road trip later, the power has returned, and i've averaged 31.5 mpg on 3 tanks of gas. not bad at all!
#169
you changed the oil and filter- after the 4 oz in the crankcase right?
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seafoamed for the first time today (while i was at work lol slow day)
bought a pre-cut roll of 4ft. clear 1/4" tube at Lowe's for $1.87
followed instructions on here and it worked out good. didn't hear any clanking on startup...thats a good thing i guess lol
but HOLY SMOKIN EXHAUST Batman! the wind was blowin that shit right back at me in the front seat.
i immediately felt a difference in the ride...smoother. MUCH smoother. I am the 2nd owner of my TL so i'm glad i did this. MPG are TBD. Results to come...
and yes, i will repeat in 2000 miles lol
bought a pre-cut roll of 4ft. clear 1/4" tube at Lowe's for $1.87
followed instructions on here and it worked out good. didn't hear any clanking on startup...thats a good thing i guess lol
but HOLY SMOKIN EXHAUST Batman! the wind was blowin that shit right back at me in the front seat.
i immediately felt a difference in the ride...smoother. MUCH smoother. I am the 2nd owner of my TL so i'm glad i did this. MPG are TBD. Results to come...
and yes, i will repeat in 2000 miles lol
#172
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Ra Ra Sea Foam - is there a downside? - where are the facts?
I am not posting to rain on anyones parade but a word of caution may be in order. This thread is imbalanced. Could the OP be a plant from a company looking for suckers ? Well it could be, or maybe I'm an asshole for even thinking it. But it does beg the question does this shit work, or will it kill my ride ? Now let me suppose:
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
#173
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by triggle
I am not posting to rain on anyones parade but a word of caution may be in order. This thread is imbalanced. Could the OP be a plant from a company looking for suckers ? Well it could be, or maybe I'm an asshole for even thinking it. But it does beg the question does this shit work, or will it kill my ride ? Now let me suppose:
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
#174
This is easy~
Youtube has many vids of cleaners like seafoam or wynns in action- good ol boroscope cameras!! From crusty black to shiny silver on the valves and pistons, you can tell that things are going to be more efficient with clean injectors, valve stems and seals and the piston tops- all working to create better combustion
For actual user example here- our super guru fsttyms1-- used it for 200,000 miles when he pulled the motor from his 00, dismantled it for inspection and was like new inside.
He dropped a CL-S motor and 6 spd in- was the reason to pull motor, not failure.
Ziners and other car makes, boats, snowmobiles... have used it for over 50 years, so I dont think its just the current increase in prices.
Its not snake oil- its `high detergent oils`! scrubbing bubbles for the engine!
Thats why you change the oil and filter after using some in the crankcase~
Yes the smoke is largely a reaction of those oils to the hot exhaust. All it really means is you are doing a good job.
I tried it in a spray can- sold as `Deep Creep`- its 100% seafoam in an easy use can with straw. Afraid of the sip sip sip method??- this allows you to squirt squirt - and really see how much is going into the TB plate or manifold port. My new suggested method for sure!
The OP of this thread and the other writers of DIY are not seafoam industry plants
They have done DIYs to correct a major error in prior threads. Now, step by step directions and pics are in one place, so that a 1st timer under the hood-- can do a safe and efficient job.
Now we need to redo the diy again and have it locked so only the instructions exist, not 100 people with positive experience or questions covered in the diy.
You dont have to use it, you dont have to use anything- thats what life is about- free will!!!!
There are plenty here, and on other car forums, that have experienced positive results of smoother running and better mileage. If done at the dealer or a quickie lube- those machine powered fuel induction service, guess what most of them use, 16 oz Seafoam in a gallon of gas!!
Go check out youtube and judge for yourself.
Youtube has many vids of cleaners like seafoam or wynns in action- good ol boroscope cameras!! From crusty black to shiny silver on the valves and pistons, you can tell that things are going to be more efficient with clean injectors, valve stems and seals and the piston tops- all working to create better combustion
For actual user example here- our super guru fsttyms1-- used it for 200,000 miles when he pulled the motor from his 00, dismantled it for inspection and was like new inside.
He dropped a CL-S motor and 6 spd in- was the reason to pull motor, not failure.
Ziners and other car makes, boats, snowmobiles... have used it for over 50 years, so I dont think its just the current increase in prices.
Its not snake oil- its `high detergent oils`! scrubbing bubbles for the engine!
Thats why you change the oil and filter after using some in the crankcase~
Yes the smoke is largely a reaction of those oils to the hot exhaust. All it really means is you are doing a good job.
I tried it in a spray can- sold as `Deep Creep`- its 100% seafoam in an easy use can with straw. Afraid of the sip sip sip method??- this allows you to squirt squirt - and really see how much is going into the TB plate or manifold port. My new suggested method for sure!
The OP of this thread and the other writers of DIY are not seafoam industry plants
They have done DIYs to correct a major error in prior threads. Now, step by step directions and pics are in one place, so that a 1st timer under the hood-- can do a safe and efficient job.
Now we need to redo the diy again and have it locked so only the instructions exist, not 100 people with positive experience or questions covered in the diy.
You dont have to use it, you dont have to use anything- thats what life is about- free will!!!!
There are plenty here, and on other car forums, that have experienced positive results of smoother running and better mileage. If done at the dealer or a quickie lube- those machine powered fuel induction service, guess what most of them use, 16 oz Seafoam in a gallon of gas!!
Go check out youtube and judge for yourself.
#175
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Originally Posted by triggle
I am not posting to rain on anyones parade but a word of caution may be in order. This thread is imbalanced. Could the OP be a plant from a company looking for suckers ? Well it could be, or maybe I'm an asshole for even thinking it. But it does beg the question does this shit work, or will it kill my ride ? Now let me suppose:
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
I'll start off by including that I am actually considering this treatment myself, BUT am sceptical since there are no factual analysis available on the Sea Foam's web site. Hmmm. Now why not ? This thread needs to be balanced by some facts. Before and afters. Not hype.
AZ members press less and less on the gas and add snake oil to their diet as the price at the pump goes up and up. Anything to save a buck. The gas crunch is making us superconcious of our driving habbits and each day we devise new ways to conserve the money we've invested in that f'n gas tank and as prices rises we try to conserve more and more. This means that calculating the effectivity of an additive is useless because you are dealing with too many variables. You may attribute an increase in mileage to Sea Foam, but it is actually due to your subconcious efforts to stay off the gas.
I've read through all the hype in this thread about Sea Foam and I don't think I saw a single post where someone was concerned that adding snake oil to their ride would affect the seals and possibly damage sensitive components in the fuel system such a the fuel float in the tank, filters, seals and O-rings. Even if there is no damage are you really getting your engine cleaned as advertised ?
The hype is in the smoke. This is a great way to hype a product. If it smokes, it must be working. Right ? Wrong. Smoke does not mean it is burning out carbon and contaminants. Unless you consider that Sea Foam itself is a contaminant not meant to be part of the combustion cycle. Sea Foam is a petroleum product that may or may not burn well, but it would no doubt have a spent attribute which might be seen as tailpipe smoke depending on the concentration of the additive.
I'd like to see some before and after shots of a coked up engine, varnished fuel injectors, backsides of valves that have carbon deposits etc. Anyone else a tad bit skeptical ?
There is no free lunch. Not even at the discounted price of 5$ at Wall Mart.
Sorry if I pissed on your chemical induced feel goods with real curiosity.
#178
you need to do a spirited drive after vac port method, thats VERY important,
and give it a few days of driving for more of the crud to get blown out- and the fuel to clean the injectors.
Nothing is wrong- its a work in progress
1st timers repeat in 2000 miles.
and give it a few days of driving for more of the crud to get blown out- and the fuel to clean the injectors.
Nothing is wrong- its a work in progress
1st timers repeat in 2000 miles.
#179
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
This is easy~
Youtube has many vids of cleaners like seafoam or wynns in action- good ol boroscope cameras!! From crusty black to shiny silver on the valves and pistons, you can tell that things are going to be more efficient with clean injectors, valve stems and seals and the piston tops- all working to create better combustion
For actual user example here- our super guru fsttyms1-- used it for 200,000 miles when he pulled the motor from his 00, dismantled it for inspection and was like new inside.
He dropped a CL-S motor and 6 spd in- was the reason to pull motor, not failure.
Ziners and other car makes, boats, snowmobiles... have used it for over 50 years, so I dont think its just the current increase in prices.
Its not snake oil- its `high detergent oils`! scrubbing bubbles for the engine!
Thats why you change the oil and filter after using some in the crankcase~
Yes the smoke is largely a reaction of those oils to the hot exhaust. All it really means is you are doing a good job.
I tried it in a spray can- sold as `Deep Creep`- its 100% seafoam in an easy use can with straw. Afraid of the sip sip sip method??- this allows you to squirt squirt - and really see how much is going into the TB plate or manifold port. My new suggested method for sure!
The OP of this thread and the other writers of DIY are not seafoam industry plants
They have done DIYs to correct a major error in prior threads. Now, step by step directions and pics are in one place, so that a 1st timer under the hood-- can do a safe and efficient job.
Now we need to redo the diy again and have it locked so only the instructions exist, not 100 people with positive experience or questions covered in the diy.
You dont have to use it, you dont have to use anything- thats what life is about- free will!!!!
There are plenty here, and on other car forums, that have experienced positive results of smoother running and better mileage. If done at the dealer or a quickie lube- those machine powered fuel induction service, guess what most of them use, 16 oz Seafoam in a gallon of gas!!
Go check out youtube and judge for yourself.
Youtube has many vids of cleaners like seafoam or wynns in action- good ol boroscope cameras!! From crusty black to shiny silver on the valves and pistons, you can tell that things are going to be more efficient with clean injectors, valve stems and seals and the piston tops- all working to create better combustion
For actual user example here- our super guru fsttyms1-- used it for 200,000 miles when he pulled the motor from his 00, dismantled it for inspection and was like new inside.
He dropped a CL-S motor and 6 spd in- was the reason to pull motor, not failure.
Ziners and other car makes, boats, snowmobiles... have used it for over 50 years, so I dont think its just the current increase in prices.
Its not snake oil- its `high detergent oils`! scrubbing bubbles for the engine!
Thats why you change the oil and filter after using some in the crankcase~
Yes the smoke is largely a reaction of those oils to the hot exhaust. All it really means is you are doing a good job.
I tried it in a spray can- sold as `Deep Creep`- its 100% seafoam in an easy use can with straw. Afraid of the sip sip sip method??- this allows you to squirt squirt - and really see how much is going into the TB plate or manifold port. My new suggested method for sure!
The OP of this thread and the other writers of DIY are not seafoam industry plants
They have done DIYs to correct a major error in prior threads. Now, step by step directions and pics are in one place, so that a 1st timer under the hood-- can do a safe and efficient job.
Now we need to redo the diy again and have it locked so only the instructions exist, not 100 people with positive experience or questions covered in the diy.
You dont have to use it, you dont have to use anything- thats what life is about- free will!!!!
There are plenty here, and on other car forums, that have experienced positive results of smoother running and better mileage. If done at the dealer or a quickie lube- those machine powered fuel induction service, guess what most of them use, 16 oz Seafoam in a gallon of gas!!
Go check out youtube and judge for yourself.
#180
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Originally Posted by NBPacuraTL
dumb question, but you did reset the MID after you seafoamed right?
#181
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
you need to do a spirited drive after vac port method, thats VERY important,
and give it a few days of driving for more of the crud to get blown out- and the fuel to clean the injectors.
Nothing is wrong- its a work in progress
1st timers repeat in 2000 miles.
and give it a few days of driving for more of the crud to get blown out- and the fuel to clean the injectors.
Nothing is wrong- its a work in progress
1st timers repeat in 2000 miles.
does it make a difference if i'm accelerating using the control on the wheel while on cruise or not? decel? not sure if anyone has noticed a difference vs. using the pedals
#182
better with cruise control using fine incremants of speed adjustment,
if using it to regain a set speed.
Just off the line-- drive it to 3000 or so and let it shift- then set your speed and enjoy
did you fill up before making the trip??- after foam run was done? that would kill mileage numbers
I dont have a gen3 so have to guess on some parts- the gen2 can tolerate UP TO 15% ALCOHOL in the gas/ethanol in the usa, and it burns, but not as good as fuel without it.
The other choice is MTBE in the gas- which is better for the engine but worse for the Earth
A little foam - even a lot,, wont hurt- Shops use the machine flush system where they hook up a 1 gallon can to the fuel inlet line and run the car from that . Into that 1 gallon of gas goes guess what????- per the directions on the can- 16 oz to 1 gallon fuel and let idle 30 minutes.
if using it to regain a set speed.
Just off the line-- drive it to 3000 or so and let it shift- then set your speed and enjoy
did you fill up before making the trip??- after foam run was done? that would kill mileage numbers
I dont have a gen3 so have to guess on some parts- the gen2 can tolerate UP TO 15% ALCOHOL in the gas/ethanol in the usa, and it burns, but not as good as fuel without it.
The other choice is MTBE in the gas- which is better for the engine but worse for the Earth
A little foam - even a lot,, wont hurt- Shops use the machine flush system where they hook up a 1 gallon can to the fuel inlet line and run the car from that . Into that 1 gallon of gas goes guess what????- per the directions on the can- 16 oz to 1 gallon fuel and let idle 30 minutes.
#183
was the fwy perfectly leveled or were there inclines and declines? For me, when the road is perfectly leveled, i get consistent 32 mpg at exactly 32 miles driven. With the latter, the mpg noticeably drops off below 30 to around 25-27. In order to get 30+ fwy, i found that the environment has to be perfect and your mph to be around 65-70. What oil are you using btw? how about your tire pressure?
#184
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
better with cruise control using fine incremants of speed adjustment,
if using it to regain a set speed.
Just off the line-- drive it to 3000 or so and let it shift- then set your speed and enjoy
did you fill up before making the trip??- after foam run was done? that would kill mileage numbers
I dont have a gen3 so have to guess on some parts- the gen2 can tolerate UP TO 15% ALCOHOL in the gas/ethanol in the usa, and it burns, but not as good as fuel without it.
The other choice is MTBE in the gas- which is better for the engine but worse for the Earth
A little foam - even a lot,, wont hurt- Shops use the machine flush system where they hook up a 1 gallon can to the fuel inlet line and run the car from that . Into that 1 gallon of gas goes guess what????- per the directions on the can- 16 oz to 1 gallon fuel and let idle 30 minutes.
if using it to regain a set speed.
Just off the line-- drive it to 3000 or so and let it shift- then set your speed and enjoy
did you fill up before making the trip??- after foam run was done? that would kill mileage numbers
I dont have a gen3 so have to guess on some parts- the gen2 can tolerate UP TO 15% ALCOHOL in the gas/ethanol in the usa, and it burns, but not as good as fuel without it.
The other choice is MTBE in the gas- which is better for the engine but worse for the Earth
A little foam - even a lot,, wont hurt- Shops use the machine flush system where they hook up a 1 gallon can to the fuel inlet line and run the car from that . Into that 1 gallon of gas goes guess what????- per the directions on the can- 16 oz to 1 gallon fuel and let idle 30 minutes.
#185
Back w/ WDP RDX
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC - NY
Posts: 304
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Originally Posted by ityper
was the fwy perfectly leveled or were there inclines and declines? For me, when the road is perfectly leveled, i get consistent 32 mpg at exactly 32 miles driven. With the latter, the mpg noticeably drops off below 30 to around 25-27. In order to get 30+ fwy, i found that the environment has to be perfect and your mph to be around 65-70. What oil are you using btw? how about your tire pressure?
i use full synthetic Amsoil 0w30 which is "good for 35k miles" but i'm on it for about 9k now and i'm going to do an oil change.
last time i checked the tire pressure it was fine...nitrogen filled. i'll check it again today.
#186
MTBE- I cant even pronounce it- here is Wiki's description- it has largely been phased out in the usa, but still used in Ca. in certain brands-~
MTBE is a gasoline additive, used as an oxygenate and to raise the octane number, although its use has declined in the United States in response to environmental and health concerns. It has been found to easily pollute large quantities of groundwater when gasoline with MTBE is spilled or leaked at gas stations. MTBE is also used in organic chemistry as a relatively inexpensive solvent with properties comparable to diethyl ether but with a higher boiling point and lower solubility in water. It is also used medically to dissolve gallstones
The first few tanks after foam will reflect the cleaning still going on, 60 miles isnt enough time to even finish clearing the exhaust~
Dump another can into half a tank of gas, that should help a lot.
Repeat the intake and vac port in about 2000 miles for first timers, to get it good and clean.
Maitenance dose in gas every 5k (16 oz can in 1/2 to full tank. Like on a trip,..
and a full service every 15k miles or once a year, will keep you ahead of the game.
MTBE is a gasoline additive, used as an oxygenate and to raise the octane number, although its use has declined in the United States in response to environmental and health concerns. It has been found to easily pollute large quantities of groundwater when gasoline with MTBE is spilled or leaked at gas stations. MTBE is also used in organic chemistry as a relatively inexpensive solvent with properties comparable to diethyl ether but with a higher boiling point and lower solubility in water. It is also used medically to dissolve gallstones
The first few tanks after foam will reflect the cleaning still going on, 60 miles isnt enough time to even finish clearing the exhaust~
Dump another can into half a tank of gas, that should help a lot.
Repeat the intake and vac port in about 2000 miles for first timers, to get it good and clean.
Maitenance dose in gas every 5k (16 oz can in 1/2 to full tank. Like on a trip,..
and a full service every 15k miles or once a year, will keep you ahead of the game.
#187
you can have a sample of your amsoil- or any type of oil- (motorcycle, transmission, diesel, boat etc) tested with a mass spectrometer to check for metals and materials in the oil,,,
some are normal, some are indicative of problems coming.
A real human reads at the results, and compares them to all the cars with this engine, running any oil, and your specific oil.
A comprehensive report is made for you, and kept on file- so you can track the car over its entire life
On airplanes we do oil analysis at every oil change- thats 50 hours of engine operation
Its 35$- including the extra $10 test we want- it looks at the remaining amount of additives in the oil, and gives a miles estimate until it will be ineffective as a lubricating fluid.
fsttyms1 was going 12-15k miles on an oil change on mobil1!!!- with testing to confirm all was well. He would seafoam the crankcase at oil change- keeping crud out of the new oil, and likely extending its lifespan IMO
www.blackstone-labs.com email them for a free sample container, ask for a few of them for your buddies.
You dont pay until you send in the sample- so no sweat keeping a few on hand to give away. check the website for sample reports and other info
Is everyone ready for a revised DIY?-- featuring the "Deep Creep" `spray can version` of seafoam, and the regular full liquid for use in oil and gas-
Then Locking the thread from any replies- so its just a 1 page place to find the correct info!!
Would that help?
some are normal, some are indicative of problems coming.
A real human reads at the results, and compares them to all the cars with this engine, running any oil, and your specific oil.
A comprehensive report is made for you, and kept on file- so you can track the car over its entire life
On airplanes we do oil analysis at every oil change- thats 50 hours of engine operation
Its 35$- including the extra $10 test we want- it looks at the remaining amount of additives in the oil, and gives a miles estimate until it will be ineffective as a lubricating fluid.
fsttyms1 was going 12-15k miles on an oil change on mobil1!!!- with testing to confirm all was well. He would seafoam the crankcase at oil change- keeping crud out of the new oil, and likely extending its lifespan IMO
www.blackstone-labs.com email them for a free sample container, ask for a few of them for your buddies.
You dont pay until you send in the sample- so no sweat keeping a few on hand to give away. check the website for sample reports and other info
Is everyone ready for a revised DIY?-- featuring the "Deep Creep" `spray can version` of seafoam, and the regular full liquid for use in oil and gas-
Then Locking the thread from any replies- so its just a 1 page place to find the correct info!!
Would that help?
#188
Here I come!
My 05' TL has 60k and I just did the Seafoam procedure today. I did everything like it's supposed to be done, but I got very little smoke. What does this mean? 1/2 in vacuum hose and 1/2 in gas tank. Could it be cause I used a long clear hose, since I had to idle it myself? Will it hurt if I do it again too soon?
#189
smoke is a byproduct of the hot exhaust and the hi detegent oils in seafoam reacting to the heat
If you go for a hot foot drive- 4000 rpm 10 minutes- then immediatly do seafoam- you will likely get some smoke while adding the seafoam- slowwwly- to the intake---and some more after startup
Its not an indicator of grunge removed
the improved running is your proof!!
Run a full can in 1/2 tank of gas to clean the injectors extra good
1st timers usually repeat in 2000 miles, but if you dont think it was enough - do it agian after a few days
Clear hose just allows you to see how much is going in- and it should be very little at a time. Try the spray can version- sold as Deep Creep- very easy to put in smallest amount of foam per squirt~
More- over longer time is better, a 16 oz can in gas and same in intake vac port at TB, spray some on th TB plate as well- very important!
If you go for a hot foot drive- 4000 rpm 10 minutes- then immediatly do seafoam- you will likely get some smoke while adding the seafoam- slowwwly- to the intake---and some more after startup
Its not an indicator of grunge removed
the improved running is your proof!!
Run a full can in 1/2 tank of gas to clean the injectors extra good
1st timers usually repeat in 2000 miles, but if you dont think it was enough - do it agian after a few days
Clear hose just allows you to see how much is going in- and it should be very little at a time. Try the spray can version- sold as Deep Creep- very easy to put in smallest amount of foam per squirt~
More- over longer time is better, a 16 oz can in gas and same in intake vac port at TB, spray some on th TB plate as well- very important!
#190
Here I come!
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
smoke is a byproduct of the hot exhaust and the hi detegent oils in seafoam reacting to the heat
If you go for a hot foot drive- 4000 rpm 10 minutes- then immediatly do seafoam- you will likely get some smoke while adding the seafoam- slowwwly- to the intake---and some more after startup
Its not an indicator of grunge removed
the improved running is your proof!!
Run a full can in 1/2 tank of gas to clean the injectors extra good
1st timers usually repeat in 2000 miles, but if you dont think it was enough - do it agian after a few days
Clear hose just allows you to see how much is going in- and it should be very little at a time. Try the spray can version- sold as Deep Creep- very easy to put in smallest amount of foam per squirt~
More- over longer time is better, a 16 oz can in gas and same in intake vac port at TB, spray some on th TB plate as well- very important!
If you go for a hot foot drive- 4000 rpm 10 minutes- then immediatly do seafoam- you will likely get some smoke while adding the seafoam- slowwwly- to the intake---and some more after startup
Its not an indicator of grunge removed
the improved running is your proof!!
Run a full can in 1/2 tank of gas to clean the injectors extra good
1st timers usually repeat in 2000 miles, but if you dont think it was enough - do it agian after a few days
Clear hose just allows you to see how much is going in- and it should be very little at a time. Try the spray can version- sold as Deep Creep- very easy to put in smallest amount of foam per squirt~
More- over longer time is better, a 16 oz can in gas and same in intake vac port at TB, spray some on th TB plate as well- very important!
#192
starting at 30,000 miles would be good- a regular treatment every 15,000 miles is good
To be extra AR- do some in the gas every 5000 miles to keep it clean inside
To be extra AR- do some in the gas every 5000 miles to keep it clean inside
#193
I seafoamed my engine yesterday. 8oz in the tank and sucked the other 8 oz up the vac line. care died a couple times but i got all 8 oz in. after i let it sit for 15 went for the test drive. At first she sputtered and smoked but after a couple miles it eased up and was fine. feels smoother on takeoff now. plus i did a little MPG test. before Seafoam i could reset the car and get 34 mpg doing 65 for a couple mins. this morning i got 38!!!!! worth every penny of the cost of a bottle of Seafoam. I'm sold.
#194
06 WDP / 07 WDP Type-S
Thread Starter
WOOT! another buyer.
I actually just did my 2,000 seafoam(yes, I don't drive much since I did my seafoam back in... whenever this thread was started)
It feeels great, I get good milage, and I'm happy with the money I spent on this product. I had 2-3 extra cans laying around just incase I wanna hit up one of the other cars.
As for first time doing...I did mine at 15 or 16 thousand miles.... I'm going to do the 07 type-S soon, she has 14,000 miles already.
Yikes, only 4 thousand less than my car and it was bought last September -_-
I actually just did my 2,000 seafoam(yes, I don't drive much since I did my seafoam back in... whenever this thread was started)
It feeels great, I get good milage, and I'm happy with the money I spent on this product. I had 2-3 extra cans laying around just incase I wanna hit up one of the other cars.
As for first time doing...I did mine at 15 or 16 thousand miles.... I'm going to do the 07 type-S soon, she has 14,000 miles already.
Yikes, only 4 thousand less than my car and it was bought last September -_-
#196
Originally Posted by jmkiang
Can I do this after my oil change? It shouldn't matter right?
I just did it on my 200k miles Camry for the very first time and 10 min into vacuum line process under idle, I saw cloud of white smoke. Can't wait to go for a drive around the block.
#198
Unofficial Goat
iTrader: (1)
This ones for 01tl04tl I just came across this article today.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/seafoam.html
Valve on the left is from a cylinder treated by seafoam, the right is not, but they are from the same engine. 30,000 miles on it.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/seafoam.html
Valve on the left is from a cylinder treated by seafoam, the right is not, but they are from the same engine. 30,000 miles on it.
#199
Senior Moderator
01tl04, if you post a DIY, I will create a new thread and have RON A put it up in the 3G garage. That way, it'll stick to acurazine forever
Also, is deep-creep and better at cleaning than seafoam? I was on the site and saw that it lubricates to unlike seafoam. Does this affect anything adversely?
Also, is deep-creep and better at cleaning than seafoam? I was on the site and saw that it lubricates to unlike seafoam. Does this affect anything adversely?
#200
Senior Moderator
also I re-read the thread and noticed some members putting in a whole bunch and stalling the motor at the end. Isn't this like hydrolocking the motor and damaging it? Or is this wrong and should not be done? If I don't want to "hydrolock" my motor with seafoam, can I turn it off and just add a little bit of seafoam through the vac tube?