Replacing stock subs
01-01-2006, 08:56 AM
#3
Racer
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A couple of thoughts on this.
1 - The stock sub is rated at 40w peak, so the stock amp is probably about the same. Not much power to drive a new sub unless you add an amp.
2 - The stock sub has no enclosure, so the output is not very good. This would be the same for any aftermarket sub as well. If you read the specs on subs, most do not recommend this configuration (or the power handling is severely de-rated).
3 - The speaker grille on the stock sub is prone to rattle. A better sub would make this worse. Although it could probably be fixed with insulation or dynamat.
4 - Even a good 8" sub with an enclosure and additional amplification would still not be all that great. (That's why you don't see many aftermarket 8" subs being sold)
5 - Getting the factory sub out is a major pain in the ass because you have to remove the entire rear seat, the C Pillar trim and pry up all the clips holding the rear shelf cover down.
I think that most people here would agree that it's best to just disconnect the stock sub and add a box in the trunk with one or two 12" subs and an amplifier. If you do decide to swap out the stock sub, let us know how it works.
jjh1234
1 - The stock sub is rated at 40w peak, so the stock amp is probably about the same. Not much power to drive a new sub unless you add an amp.
2 - The stock sub has no enclosure, so the output is not very good. This would be the same for any aftermarket sub as well. If you read the specs on subs, most do not recommend this configuration (or the power handling is severely de-rated).
3 - The speaker grille on the stock sub is prone to rattle. A better sub would make this worse. Although it could probably be fixed with insulation or dynamat.
4 - Even a good 8" sub with an enclosure and additional amplification would still not be all that great. (That's why you don't see many aftermarket 8" subs being sold)
5 - Getting the factory sub out is a major pain in the ass because you have to remove the entire rear seat, the C Pillar trim and pry up all the clips holding the rear shelf cover down.
I think that most people here would agree that it's best to just disconnect the stock sub and add a box in the trunk with one or two 12" subs and an amplifier. If you do decide to swap out the stock sub, let us know how it works.
jjh1234
01-11-2006, 06:01 PM
#4
Safety Car
Originally Posted by jjh1234
A couple of thoughts on this.
1 - The stock sub is rated at 40w peak, so the stock amp is probably about the same. Not much power to drive a new sub unless you add an amp.
2 - The stock sub has no enclosure, so the output is not very good. This would be the same for any aftermarket sub as well. If you read the specs on subs, most do not recommend this configuration (or the power handling is severely de-rated).
3 - The speaker grille on the stock sub is prone to rattle. A better sub would make this worse. Although it could probably be fixed with insulation or dynamat.
4 - Even a good 8" sub with an enclosure and additional amplification would still not be all that great. (That's why you don't see many aftermarket 8" subs being sold)
5 - Getting the factory sub out is a major pain in the ass because you have to remove the entire rear seat, the C Pillar trim and pry up all the clips holding the rear shelf cover down.
I think that most people here would agree that it's best to just disconnect the stock sub and add a box in the trunk with one or two 12" subs and an amplifier. If you do decide to swap out the stock sub, let us know how it works.
jjh1234
1 - The stock sub is rated at 40w peak, so the stock amp is probably about the same. Not much power to drive a new sub unless you add an amp.
2 - The stock sub has no enclosure, so the output is not very good. This would be the same for any aftermarket sub as well. If you read the specs on subs, most do not recommend this configuration (or the power handling is severely de-rated).
3 - The speaker grille on the stock sub is prone to rattle. A better sub would make this worse. Although it could probably be fixed with insulation or dynamat.
4 - Even a good 8" sub with an enclosure and additional amplification would still not be all that great. (That's why you don't see many aftermarket 8" subs being sold)
5 - Getting the factory sub out is a major pain in the ass because you have to remove the entire rear seat, the C Pillar trim and pry up all the clips holding the rear shelf cover down.
I think that most people here would agree that it's best to just disconnect the stock sub and add a box in the trunk with one or two 12" subs and an amplifier. If you do decide to swap out the stock sub, let us know how it works.
jjh1234
so, in case of putting a new amp/box/sub in the trunk, i don't need to take out the back seat?? what do i (or audio shop people) need to do to install amp/box/sub in the trunk?
thank you
01-11-2006, 08:24 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
You can go through the trunk and pull down the plastic cover piece that hides the backside of the speakers. You will not be able to take the sub out but at least you will be able to disconnect it .
01-11-2006, 08:54 PM
#6
Safety Car
Originally Posted by King of Pain
You can go through the trunk and pull down the plastic cover piece that hides the backside of the speakers. You will not be able to take the sub out but at least you will be able to disconnect it .
if i plan on putting new sub/box/amp, does pulling the power from the battery require back seat removal?
01-11-2006, 09:22 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by yohan81718
is that a cable that comes from head-unit to the amplifier or the cable from amp to the sub?
if i plan on putting new sub/box/amp, does pulling the power from the battery require back seat removal?
if i plan on putting new sub/box/amp, does pulling the power from the battery require back seat removal?
You could take out the bottom part of the seat and slide the cable to the trunk. The seat is in two pieces, the bottom and the back
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01-11-2006, 10:06 PM
#8
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Most of todays amps will accept a high (speaker) or low (line) level input. I just connected my amp to the cable that originally went to the 8" OEM. You will have to remove the bottom of the back seat to run the power cable for the new amp. See my sub install post here.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127880
jjh1234
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127880
jjh1234
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