Mack89

Well, I've finished working on removing axle, I decided to replace every ball joint. That took a while though.

Anyway, I've gotta deal with the flashing oil pressure light.
As I posted before, I'm assuming it's oil pressure sensor. #16 here


So I've checked passenger side, around the oil filter, all I could found was vtec solenoid(#17) and drain plug which looks just like oil pressure sensor.

Does anybody know where it's located? help me out!

fsttyms1

16 is the oil pressure switch.

Mack89

^do know..........can't get the location of the switch, that's all

fsttyms1

What do you mean? you cant get the location of it? or you dont know where it is in relation to the motor? Its on the passenger side of the motor on towards the rear. You can probably get to it thru the passenger side wheel well. Or just below the car up past the axle

Mack89

Sorry I haven't worked on this car for few days..
^Yes, you're right. I just cannot get the location of it..I've dismantled passenger side of suspension/axle, so I have clear access. But I cannot find it..
It's gotta be somewhere around Vtec solenoid, #17 in picture above, since the oil pump has got to be located nearby oil filter and oil pan, yes?

Mack89

Took a picture in different angle..
That one between drain plug and vtec solenoid, wrapped with black thing, is that oil pressure sensor?

spiro

Do you have the new switch?
Match it up with the ones you suspect to be the switch.
Take the connector off the suspect one and plug it into the new one( without taking the old one out)
the connector in any particular area is unique.

01tl4tl

the op sensor is likely to have only 1 wire to it

buy new part and match up!

totaledTL

Unplug suspected sensor, start eng. & see if oil light stays on-?

Let us know which one it turns out to be.

Mack89

I haven't received the order, but that is my plan at this moment.
I'll update in few days

Mack89

Ok, turns out it was indeed oil pressure switch.
Since I couldn't find any DIY regarding this sucker, I'll give you a little gift. Here's little DIY.

I've removed axle and strut, it gave me plenty of room..But most of you won't be in same situation, this DIY might just give you sketchy idea of how to remove the switch. You may need different tool and different approach.

Ok, here we go

So, here's little bastard you need to remove.




There was no way that I can pull the rubber boot gently, I had to tear it. Well in 10 years seems like switch has never been replaced, boot just fell apart like a cookie



After you remove the boot, you now have access to the tube.
That yellow thing goes all the way down to the nipple.




Space is going to be tight since Vtec solenoid is blocking the way. Lets remove it.

Use 22mm combination wrench, or you could use crows foot wrench if you cannot access to it freely because of axle and strut.



Now, remove the clip. If you cannot remove it, turn the solenoid a little bit so you can see it.






Now you have access to oil pressure switch.
Use 24mm wrench, turn it counter-clockwise.



Yeah here's a little bastard.







Well if you have new switch in your hand, replace it right away. Otherwise, put some paper towel so dust won't get in there.

totaledTL

Did you confirm it's bad by testing it?

Recently had one replaced on an old Accord w/ an Auto Zone part that proved to be defective. Oil light came on but pressure was good. Might be worth it to use OEM.

Mack89

^Well, even after disconnecting wires, oil pressure light was keep flashing. I'm guessing I can absolutely confirm after replacing switch itself..OEM switch was only $15, worth using OEM definitely.

01tl4tl

engine gurus:
does vtec have a seperate oil pressure warning system that would make the light flash?

totaledTL

Could be an open in the wiring to it.

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

Would the switch or sensor leak oil?

closetprisoner

Possible, if bad washer

TLer trash

There is a separate oil pressure sensor/switch that lets the ecm know if the vtec solenoid has opened, allowing oil pressure to the vtec system. It won't turn on the oil pressure light, but it will set a code and turn on the cel. There's a little confusion between the switch and the solenoid in this thread , not to mention mixing up the oil pressure switch with the vtec oil pressure switch.
In the diagram, 14 is the vtec solenoid, 17 is the vtec oil pressure switch, and 16 is the engine oil pressure switch/sender/sensor. The second picture in post 5 shows the vtec solenoid on the right and the vtec oil pressure switch on the left. The engine oil pressure sender is hidden under a little black rubber boot, I forgot which picture.

TLer trash

The engine oil pressure sender/sensor is a rather common leak, it does not have a washer like the vtec oil sensor. I'm also starting to see more oil leaks between the engine block and the oil pump housing on high mileage j engines.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

I've got oil burning off the rear/bottom, coming across the pan.
Snugged up a few of the 10mm pan bolts, but the smell has returned.

While #17 vtec oil pressure switch has appeared to have a small drip, it didn't appear to be worse.
So now you're saying to take a harder look at #16 engine oil pressure switch/sender/sensor ?
If it does not have a washer, would one snug it up if it is weeping?

Question:
Both the vtec solenoid and vtec oil pressure switch are exposed to the flowing oil?
Either can leak?
What is the difference in function?

Thanks!

TLer trash

The engine oil pressure sender is a common leak source. It's tapered pipe thread, no gasket, and I've never seen one leak at the threads. They leak under the rubber boot where the wire goes in.
The engine oil pressure sensor sees pressure whenever the engine is running. The vtec solenoid [not the sensor] has pressure on one side whenever the engine is running. The vtec oil sensor only sees pressure during vtec operation, when the vtec solenoid is energized and open.
Basically, clean everything in that area with brake cleaner and run it until you can isolate the leak. There are about 5 or 6 common leak sources in that specific area; you may have more than one.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Got it all cleaned up, and ran it today. Back up on ramps, I'm thrilled to notice it is not a main seal.
However, it does look to be the vtec oil pressure switch.

There's no way to get a clear look at it, however, from beneath or from above, it there?

Does one remove the axle to do a replacement?

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Best as I can tell, I'd have to remove the front strut bar [#22] or remove the fuse box, to get my arm down to the oil pressure switch. Is this the consensus?

I dinna want to remove the axle. Are there any issues setting the fuse box to one side?

TLer trash

I've always done them on a hoist with the suspension hanging, but without removing the axle, sway bar or fuse box. It's a bit of a pain, but not that bad.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, so my ramps are not the ticket. Has to be up on jack stands or even better, hoisted up. I can see how access would be easier if one could stand under the car, with the suspension hanging down.

The Ajax floor jack lost it's seal, and the rebuild is over a month away.
At least I'll have more time to plan the operation.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

The black lead going to the oil pressure sender is a wire with an electrical signal?

The boot might rip, but it is no big deal?

How about if I put the car on stands, and removed the front passenger tire? Would I get right in from the side?

I plunked down my coin for an inspection mirror today, and with that and my Surefire E2E,
am now 95% sure the leak is #16 in the schematic.

TLer trash

Yeah, look at post #11. The first 3 pictures show the boot and what you typically do to remove it. They never come off in one piece. I've never seen the lack of a boot cause any problems yet. I would definitely take the wheel off, but I don't know if it will be a lot of help. If push comes to shove, I would hope you have it done by a garage for around $50.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Here's the sensor, sitting in the 24mm socket.

I plan on getting the cable off the sensor and setting the
socket/extension from below, and ratcheting it from above.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

My jack is still limp, so roll-on stands it will be. This pic is taken by scooting my head all the way back against the passanger tire.

Clear shot right to the pressure switch. I plan on using a 15" long slotted screwdriver to pry/pop the boot off from both the left and right sides. Then, place the socket with universal and a short extention from below. Connect the rest of the extension from the barely accessible area behind the engine.

Is this nuts? Will it work? Or am I better off paying the $50 smackers to the guy across the street? Hey, $50 bucks goes a long way towards 8 year rum and cigars. Gotta get my priorities right.