TEIN SS with EDFC self install
02-28-2013, 08:31 PM
#41
Instructor
Those pictures are pre-alignment. We had to undo a bit of the rear suspension to get the rear struts out.
As for difficulty - make sure you have a friend, and knowing the TL's suspension is very helpful. Both andy (grezand) and I have worked on the 3rd gen's suspension before installing our own, and others coilovers.
For the 4th Gen TEIN SS you will re-use the OEM top hats. it does require un-doing of a bit of the rear suspension to remove the strut. You can do it without removing the end-links but it's a PITA. Front's are way easy. You're normal 14mm and 12mm bolts up top, and the bolts holding in the forks and it drops away.
If I had to rate the difficulty with EDFC I would put it at a 9. If you choose to use the OEM grommet on the firewall to pull the front EDFC wires through you'll find it's not accessible by removing the glove box. You must drop the blower motor in order to access the grommet and pull the wires through. Then tap into a 12v switched, 12v constant (fuse panel with open slot in kick panel) ground, and dimmer in for the EDFC unit.
As for difficulty - make sure you have a friend, and knowing the TL's suspension is very helpful. Both andy (grezand) and I have worked on the 3rd gen's suspension before installing our own, and others coilovers.
For the 4th Gen TEIN SS you will re-use the OEM top hats. it does require un-doing of a bit of the rear suspension to remove the strut. You can do it without removing the end-links but it's a PITA. Front's are way easy. You're normal 14mm and 12mm bolts up top, and the bolts holding in the forks and it drops away.
If I had to rate the difficulty with EDFC I would put it at a 9. If you choose to use the OEM grommet on the firewall to pull the front EDFC wires through you'll find it's not accessible by removing the glove box. You must drop the blower motor in order to access the grommet and pull the wires through. Then tap into a 12v switched, 12v constant (fuse panel with open slot in kick panel) ground, and dimmer in for the EDFC unit.
when you undid the suspension, did you have the car raised on all sides, just the front, just one side?? what kind of procedure did you use, if you don't mind me picking your brain. Im currently starting mine today but ran into a snag where the suspension wont drop. Got the bottom 17mm bolt removed, got the arm up top removed, and theres still mad tension. From what I can see, there isnt enough clearance for the spring to come out. please help!!!!
02-28-2013, 10:39 PM
#42
^^ could you post a pic of your issue?
If you have the fork undone from the bottom of the shock, wiggle it off of the shock and it will drop onto the axle, from which you can loosen the remaining nut you should have kept on a few threads from the engine bay (top of the shock tower) and lower the assembly out.
If you have the fork undone from the bottom of the shock, wiggle it off of the shock and it will drop onto the axle, from which you can loosen the remaining nut you should have kept on a few threads from the engine bay (top of the shock tower) and lower the assembly out.
02-28-2013, 11:00 PM
#43
Instructor
I think I should've trued leaving the top hat attached til the cery end but I dont think that would've chamged the amount of tension in the spring and the amount of clearance needed for removing the strut. As soon as the sun hits, ill post some photos tomorrow.
02-28-2013, 11:42 PM
#44
Instructor
well i got impatient and decided to add photos of the problem now. As you can see, theres plenty of tension still in the spring so the arm can't be pushed down any more to clear the shock and the fork is competely loose. 
03-01-2013, 12:37 AM
#45
I'm no suspension expert but I think by undoing the nut for the top hat you allow the spring to be not compress and thus the whole assembly is now to long to come out.
From all the previous installs I did or help on we leave the nut on the hat and the spring/strut compress as is and pull it out.
From all the previous installs I did or help on we leave the nut on the hat and the spring/strut compress as is and pull it out.
03-01-2013, 07:32 AM
#47
Your problem is that you took the top bolt off pretty much disassembling itself in the stock location. You're suppose to take the whole strut assembly out before disassembling the top hats while using the spring compressor to do so.
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Acc-Rite (03-01-2013)
03-01-2013, 10:02 AM
#48
Instructor
03-01-2013, 02:57 PM
#49
any chance you can pry the whole assembly back into the stock position? That way you can throw the bolts back on where it'll hold the strut and then you can release the bottom fork and pull everything out as one. trying to get the spring compressor in there is gonna be a pain in the ass, might be easier just to start over.
Pm'd you a link that might help you out.
Pm'd you a link that might help you out.
Last edited by vp special k; 03-01-2013 at 03:01 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Acc-Rite (03-01-2013)
03-01-2013, 05:31 PM
#50
Instructor
Well I got the problem fixed. I purchased a compression tool for about 16 bucks, took the spring out and fixed everything back up from there. I definitely appreciate all the feedback I got from everyone. The compression tool wasn't that hard to install. Actually made my life much easier! 
03-01-2013, 05:41 PM
#51
Instructor
BTW, one thing I found to make this go faster was not to remove the bolt from the fork. Just removing the crown nut from the top of the knuckle allowed me to drop the arm enough to bring it down. If I needed extra room, I could remove the fork nut but it wasn't necessary. 
03-04-2013, 12:22 AM
#52
I would really like to know about the edfc wiring install as well, i like that "not an ashtray" location to. I have had tein coilovers on every car I have owned and plan on doing the same with my TL.
03-06-2013, 07:04 PM
#53
Safety Car
I plan to install my EDFC in that location and I can do a How-To since I have been doing a lot of How-To's on here. Will try to do one for you. Going to do this before the springs/suspension get put in so it is ready to go. Full install is on the 30th.
03-07-2013, 09:10 PM
#54
Racer
I tried installing it in the ashtray but there is some kind of sensor right behind the ashtray thing. So I just installed it in the storage box underneath the arm rest. Used double tape and it's been there for months now with no issues. I can still stoe stuff there etc.
03-12-2013, 06:49 PM
#55
Safety Car
Kb1Spec, I want to install mine there in the next few days, how did you get that out. I pulled the sides off and man I do not see a easy way to remove the tray? Is it replaceable if you ever want to remove it?
Any tips or advice on how to run the wires and get that unit out would be greatly appreciated!
03-12-2013, 07:32 PM
#57
Safety Car
I got the dash taken apart finally. It wasn't that hard once I figured it out. Now the biggest question. How do I get through the firewall on this car? I looked on the driver side and saw no grommets to go through. 
12-04-2014, 12:09 AM
#61
Instructor
12-13-2014, 04:28 PM
#62
Safety Car
Looking good man. My noise was a sway bar end link issue. But otherwise those Teins were solid and nice. Sorry about your mishap with the roads in SA.
12-14-2014, 10:37 AM
#63
Instructor
Christmas kinda early for me. lol.
12-14-2014, 03:20 PM
#64
Safety Car
Thanks pimpin-tl. Well, I was at a point where I just called my own insurance company to get compensated for the damaged wheels. It was a last resort. I even had a claims adjuster look at wheels and they were all going to be replaced by my insurance. When all of the sudden, out of the blue, I got a call from the road construction company's insurance Friday evening and they are taking liability and honoring my claim. Just put in an order for new wheels. Vossen isn't producing CV3's again until Feb, none in stock. No CV2's in stock either. So I'm going with CV7's. Should be in later this week and I'll post the pics!
Christmas kinda early for me. lol.
Christmas kinda early for me. lol.
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