DIY installation of Daytime Running Lights**with detailed pictures** 3G Garage #G-067
11-12-2007, 06:36 PM
#161
Guys,
I am on my 3rd DRL module and it looks like this one is working good so far.
I now have a totally new and unique problem (well maybe it's not a problem) with my foglights being used as DRLs. I changed the bulbs to LED SMT modules that are made to fit into the 9006 bulb socket. They're not as bright as stock but give a nice white HIDish output.
Thing is though when I turn the car OFF the lights still stay on very very dimly. This leads me to believe there is a very small amount of current going to them even when the car is off! Is this a normal part of the design of the designtech module? I think what's happening here is that because I had normal filament bulbs before, the current passing through was hardly enough to light the bulb even dimly. Now I have LEDs and they must be so sensitive and low draw that they light up.
Actually it looks really cool at night when my car is parked! As if my car is sleeping with an eye open. My only concern is whether this would result in any serious drain on my battery. A reason I'd think not is because every car has alarm LEDs etc. that blink even when a car is off with negligible drain on a battery. The reason I think that it may affect the battery is because the bulbs have at least 12 LEDs on them and they stay on continuously. Anyone have any idea what is causing this and/or if you recommend keeping the lights off?
I am on my 3rd DRL module and it looks like this one is working good so far.
I now have a totally new and unique problem (well maybe it's not a problem) with my foglights being used as DRLs. I changed the bulbs to LED SMT modules that are made to fit into the 9006 bulb socket. They're not as bright as stock but give a nice white HIDish output.
Thing is though when I turn the car OFF the lights still stay on very very dimly. This leads me to believe there is a very small amount of current going to them even when the car is off! Is this a normal part of the design of the designtech module? I think what's happening here is that because I had normal filament bulbs before, the current passing through was hardly enough to light the bulb even dimly. Now I have LEDs and they must be so sensitive and low draw that they light up.
Actually it looks really cool at night when my car is parked! As if my car is sleeping with an eye open. My only concern is whether this would result in any serious drain on my battery. A reason I'd think not is because every car has alarm LEDs etc. that blink even when a car is off with negligible drain on a battery. The reason I think that it may affect the battery is because the bulbs have at least 12 LEDs on them and they stay on continuously. Anyone have any idea what is causing this and/or if you recommend keeping the lights off?
11-13-2007, 06:53 AM
#162
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Originally Posted by rockyfeller
Guys,
I am on my 3rd DRL module and it looks like this one is working good so far.
I now have a totally new and unique problem (well maybe it's not a problem) with my foglights being used as DRLs. I changed the bulbs to LED SMT modules that are made to fit into the 9006 bulb socket. They're not as bright as stock but give a nice white HIDish output.
Thing is though when I turn the car OFF the lights still stay on very very dimly. This leads me to believe there is a very small amount of current going to them even when the car is off! Is this a normal part of the design of the designtech module? I think what's happening here is that because I had normal filament bulbs before, the current passing through was hardly enough to light the bulb even dimly. Now I have LEDs and they must be so sensitive and low draw that they light up.
Actually it looks really cool at night when my car is parked! As if my car is sleeping with an eye open. My only concern is whether this would result in any serious drain on my battery. A reason I'd think not is because every car has alarm LEDs etc. that blink even when a car is off with negligible drain on a battery. The reason I think that it may affect the battery is because the bulbs have at least 12 LEDs on them and they stay on continuously. Anyone have any idea what is causing this and/or if you recommend keeping the lights off?
I am on my 3rd DRL module and it looks like this one is working good so far.
I now have a totally new and unique problem (well maybe it's not a problem) with my foglights being used as DRLs. I changed the bulbs to LED SMT modules that are made to fit into the 9006 bulb socket. They're not as bright as stock but give a nice white HIDish output.
Thing is though when I turn the car OFF the lights still stay on very very dimly. This leads me to believe there is a very small amount of current going to them even when the car is off! Is this a normal part of the design of the designtech module? I think what's happening here is that because I had normal filament bulbs before, the current passing through was hardly enough to light the bulb even dimly. Now I have LEDs and they must be so sensitive and low draw that they light up.
Actually it looks really cool at night when my car is parked! As if my car is sleeping with an eye open. My only concern is whether this would result in any serious drain on my battery. A reason I'd think not is because every car has alarm LEDs etc. that blink even when a car is off with negligible drain on a battery. The reason I think that it may affect the battery is because the bulbs have at least 12 LEDs on them and they stay on continuously. Anyone have any idea what is causing this and/or if you recommend keeping the lights off?
11-13-2007, 12:13 PM
#163
Sweet CL Type S
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Didn't work for me.
Originally Posted by Sweetcls6sp
Sorry to barge in on the TL forum but will these awesome instructions and part number work on a 2003 CL Type S? I'd really like to have these lights set up but I don't want a Mickey Mouse job. This looks like it'd be perfect! Thanks
Update...I did buy one of these units and installed it exactly as the instructions showed for a negative setup. When I started the car I had only one high beam light on as it should be and the low beam on the same side was flickering. I rechecked my wiring and saw it was correct. I pulled it out as I certainly don't want to ruin any of the wiring or have something happen to the headlight system. I'll just order some foglights and run those.
Hey, I tried!! thanks
11-13-2007, 01:03 PM
#164
Somehow that constant +ve tap is trickling some power through even when the car is off. That can mean a constant drain on all of our cars.....Or is there only a drain if the bulb lights up? I have a fancy multimeter here but I don't think I'd be able to infer too much about it though. Sorry I'm not an electronic guru here.
11-14-2007, 11:16 AM
#165
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when I get my car back from the body shop (I hit a deer) I will check to see if there is a draw. I have had the DRL's installed for almost 2 years and I have had no trouble with the battery. In that time it sat at the air port for 2 weeks and it fired right up.
11-15-2007, 01:48 AM
#166
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bwhaha..my car came with DRLS...
well...tahst cuz in Canada..all cars must have DRLS....or at least now of days they do..
to make it look more sexy....put JDM Yellow bulbs in there
well...tahst cuz in Canada..all cars must have DRLS....or at least now of days they do..
to make it look more sexy....put JDM Yellow bulbs in there
11-15-2007, 07:11 AM
#167
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Originally Posted by hamsup
bwhaha..my car came with DRLS...
well...tahst cuz in Canada..all cars must have DRLS....or at least now of days they do..
to make it look more sexy....put JDM Yellow bulbs in there
well...tahst cuz in Canada..all cars must have DRLS....or at least now of days they do..
to make it look more sexy....put JDM Yellow bulbs in there
Hey I'm in Canada and I don't have DRLs?!...Oh yeah...my car is American
But I have the RonJon bodykit though
Cheers!
05-12-2008, 11:01 AM
#178
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Originally Posted by lazyboykhoa
does anyone here have model #20013VA? cuz thats wat they sent me and the colors are a little different and i also purchased it from autobarn.com
05-14-2008, 11:29 AM
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for positive light systems (most vehicle)
1. locate a suitable place behind one of the headlights which allows you easy access to the headlight's wires, +12 volt supply and a switched ignition wire. use the enclosed cable tie to screws to mount the unit
2. clip off the white/red wire where it enters the module. connect the red wire with the in-line fuse holder and 20 amp fuse to the plus side (+12 V) of the battery. ( no ground wire is necessary for this product)
3. use the wiring guide to locate the high beam and the low beam wires behind one headlight. use the blue connectores to conect the orange wire to the high beam wire and the white (optional) wire to the low beam wires. the white wire turns the DRL off when the low beams come on.
4. using the wiring guide, locate the ignition sense wire and connect to the units blue wire using one of the tap connectors. this is a wire which shows power (+12 V) when the key is turned to the ignition position and not power when the ignition is off.
5. tide up the wires such that no moving parts or hot engine surfaces will come in contact with these wires
for negative light systems
clip off the white wire where it enters the modult. follow the above directions with the change being that the red and orange wires are reversed with the orange going to ground, red to the high beam wire and white/red to the low beam wire. do not connect the red/white wire until all other wires have been properly connected.
1. locate a suitable place behind one of the headlights which allows you easy access to the headlight's wires, +12 volt supply and a switched ignition wire. use the enclosed cable tie to screws to mount the unit
2. clip off the white/red wire where it enters the module. connect the red wire with the in-line fuse holder and 20 amp fuse to the plus side (+12 V) of the battery. ( no ground wire is necessary for this product)
3. use the wiring guide to locate the high beam and the low beam wires behind one headlight. use the blue connectores to conect the orange wire to the high beam wire and the white (optional) wire to the low beam wires. the white wire turns the DRL off when the low beams come on.
4. using the wiring guide, locate the ignition sense wire and connect to the units blue wire using one of the tap connectors. this is a wire which shows power (+12 V) when the key is turned to the ignition position and not power when the ignition is off.
5. tide up the wires such that no moving parts or hot engine surfaces will come in contact with these wires
for negative light systems
clip off the white wire where it enters the modult. follow the above directions with the change being that the red and orange wires are reversed with the orange going to ground, red to the high beam wire and white/red to the low beam wire. do not connect the red/white wire until all other wires have been properly connected.
05-14-2008, 05:29 PM
#180
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Red to positive battery post
Orange from module goes to Blue/yellow tracer at fog light connector
white from module goes to red/orange tracer at ballast
blue from module goes to green in the wiper motor harness.
Orange from module goes to Blue/yellow tracer at fog light connector
white from module goes to red/orange tracer at ballast
blue from module goes to green in the wiper motor harness.
05-29-2008, 04:48 PM
#182
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Just a tip for installing the module.
Solder the wires!!! Those snap on clips are junk and will f'up your connections, they will cut the strands of your wire. I should have known better.
Almost two years after the install the connectors where not making good contact anymore. At first I thought that my module went bad, but the wire was oxidizing and vibrating creating opens. I had bad contacts at the fog light connection and then at that cheap-ass fuse clip.
I finally took all the old shit off and soldered the wires and replaced the in-line fuse with a quality one. Oh, the module wire does not solder well, so I used a copper wire to the auto harness and then crimps to the module wires. Everything now works great again!
On a side note, autobarn (where I originally purchased the daylight running lights) told me to call the manufacturer (there was a 2 year warranty), who doesn't answer the phone and won't return voice mails?!? I am glad that it wasn't the module.
Solder the wires!!! Those snap on clips are junk and will f'up your connections, they will cut the strands of your wire. I should have known better.
Almost two years after the install the connectors where not making good contact anymore. At first I thought that my module went bad, but the wire was oxidizing and vibrating creating opens. I had bad contacts at the fog light connection and then at that cheap-ass fuse clip.
I finally took all the old shit off and soldered the wires and replaced the in-line fuse with a quality one. Oh, the module wire does not solder well, so I used a copper wire to the auto harness and then crimps to the module wires. Everything now works great again!
On a side note, autobarn (where I originally purchased the daylight running lights) told me to call the manufacturer (there was a 2 year warranty), who doesn't answer the phone and won't return voice mails?!? I am glad that it wasn't the module.
05-30-2008, 09:28 AM
#184
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Originally Posted by lazyboykhoa
my DRL stopped workin this morning. i did all the checks with all the wire and fused and still not workin...
05-30-2008, 10:56 AM
#185
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Originally Posted by tdelta
Cool mod but I prefer the OEM setup.
Besides i drive like an asshole so i would rather not intentionally light my car up 24/7 and make it easier for popo to see me.
05-31-2008, 04:19 PM
#186
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Nice
Originally Posted by ..Mark..
Gotta agree.
Besides i drive like an asshole so i would rather not intentionally light my car up 24/7 and make it easier for popo to see me.
Besides i drive like an asshole so i would rather not intentionally light my car up 24/7 and make it easier for popo to see me.
06-04-2008, 11:46 AM
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okay so i called autobarn up and i told them about my problem with my DRL lights messing up... anyways they told me to call the tech people that they buy it from and they told me that the module is prob burnt up and cant handle the HID lights on our cars. soo wat the hell am i suppose to do now? oh yea i replaced the fuse and check all my wiring...
06-07-2008, 06:52 PM
#189
Originally Posted by Tecciztecatl
Just a tip for installing the module.
Solder the wires!!! Those snap on clips are junk and will f'up your connections, they will cut the strands of your wire. I should have known better.
Almost two years after the install the connectors where not making good contact anymore. At first I thought that my module went bad, but the wire was oxidizing and vibrating creating opens. I had bad contacts at the fog light connection and then at that cheap-ass fuse clip.
I finally took all the old shit off and soldered the wires and replaced the in-line fuse with a quality one. Oh, the module wire does not solder well, so I used a copper wire to the auto harness and then crimps to the module wires. Everything now works great again!
On a side note, autobarn (where I originally purchased the daylight running lights) told me to call the manufacturer (there was a 2 year warranty), who doesn't answer the phone and won't return voice mails?!? I am glad that it wasn't the module.
Solder the wires!!! Those snap on clips are junk and will f'up your connections, they will cut the strands of your wire. I should have known better.
Almost two years after the install the connectors where not making good contact anymore. At first I thought that my module went bad, but the wire was oxidizing and vibrating creating opens. I had bad contacts at the fog light connection and then at that cheap-ass fuse clip.
I finally took all the old shit off and soldered the wires and replaced the in-line fuse with a quality one. Oh, the module wire does not solder well, so I used a copper wire to the auto harness and then crimps to the module wires. Everything now works great again!
On a side note, autobarn (where I originally purchased the daylight running lights) told me to call the manufacturer (there was a 2 year warranty), who doesn't answer the phone and won't return voice mails?!? I am glad that it wasn't the module.
If the white wire were not connected to the headlights would the fogs stay on at 75% even with the headlights on?
07-01-2008, 03:23 PM
#191
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I just installed a newer version 20013VA -- ther was NO green loop of wire. There is about a 10-15 second delay to come on (good while you crank the engine to start) and a similar delay when you turn the key off.
Also I ordered mine at www.accessconnect.com for $22.90
Also I ordered mine at www.accessconnect.com for $22.90
12-16-2008, 06:03 PM
#192
LiQuiDFleX81
12-16-2008, 06:21 PM
#193
LiQuiDFleX81
can this be done?
if so, how,, thanks?
03-21-2009, 09:53 AM
#194
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Hey guys I just got the newer version 20013VA... How do you wire them compare to the old one?? All of the wire colors are different, the new one don't have any green wire.. So what go to what?
04-10-2009, 11:17 AM
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Just an update. My drls have been installed for about 4 years and alomost 90k. In that time I had to replace the fuse holder to a better one and I had to solder all the connections that I had t-tapped orginaly. Other than that the module is still working as designed.
05-10-2009, 06:20 PM
#199
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I drive a LOT of highway miles and I like the idea of DRLs---anything I can do to make it easier to be seen in the Soccer Mom's mirror is a good thing to me.
The supplied connectors are pure shit--if you hold them up to a light, you can see right thru the butt connector part. No wonder they failed for everyone with all the water and crap that must get into them. Go to Radio Shack and buy a decent set, or go the soldering route.
I installed the 20013VA and the wire colors were the same on mine. The green loop must be internal to the unit now, as I did not have one on mine and did not take it apart to check. Follow the enclosed instructions for a Positive electrical system (or follow this DIY).
When I first fired the unit up, it seemed to blink a few times then light up solid---maybe something doing an initial charge up and then run?
It turns on the OEM fogs at 75% about 15secs after starting the car. They remain on when you turn on the parking lights and turn off with the headlights. The factory switch for the fogs works normally. They remain on for about 15secs after turning the car off.
I'm happy and will post any problems or lack thereof in the future.
Thanks again to AZ for the assistance!
05-10-2009, 06:33 PM
#200
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Hmn.....
How about doing the opposite?
Is there a possible way to get the DRLs to turn on with lowbeam as if they were fogs?
[for the TLs that came with DRLs -- such as the newer TLs or the Canadian TLs]
How about doing the opposite?
Is there a possible way to get the DRLs to turn on with lowbeam as if they were fogs?
[for the TLs that came with DRLs -- such as the newer TLs or the Canadian TLs]