Details on the stock TL amp
09-02-2004, 12:45 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Details on the stock TL amp
I have started my reverse engineering process of the factory amp. I have done this more a couple of reasons. I am curious to see what equalization really exist in the system and to see if there is an RCA level output after all the mutes and mixing. So far I have taken some pictures and found some data sheets. Here is a link to the output IC for the TL amp.
Phillips TDA8563Q
At 25W the spec says 10% THD!! I have traced all the outputs (6 channels) to the output board connector. I still have to decipher who makes the other ICs on the board so I can get the data sheet. I could hookup the amp @ work but I don't think I want to use company resources ....
So far it seems like a very basic amp and like the designer(s) followed the datasheet. I see one or two areas where some EQ and/or x-over functions could be happening. I do know I saw that 3.3uF cap on the stock tweeter and I got about 6 ohms on it. So that is about an 8kHz 6db/oct high pass filter. Nothing fancy there. I wonder if they did the filtering for the midrange 6.5" at the speaker? Anyone know?
Well time to put the TL back together. I'll post some pics soon.
Phillips TDA8563Q
At 25W the spec says 10% THD!! I have traced all the outputs (6 channels) to the output board connector. I still have to decipher who makes the other ICs on the board so I can get the data sheet. I could hookup the amp @ work but I don't think I want to use company resources ....
So far it seems like a very basic amp and like the designer(s) followed the datasheet. I see one or two areas where some EQ and/or x-over functions could be happening. I do know I saw that 3.3uF cap on the stock tweeter and I got about 6 ohms on it. So that is about an 8kHz 6db/oct high pass filter. Nothing fancy there. I wonder if they did the filtering for the midrange 6.5" at the speaker? Anyone know?
Well time to put the TL back together. I'll post some pics soon.
09-02-2004, 08:18 AM
#4
Team Owner
Deleted.
Mike
Mike
09-04-2004, 06:25 PM
#5
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spyfish007:
I really appreciate your analysis of this system. I had figured that the "225 watt" amp was 25 watts per channel for 5 channels and 100 watts for the sub. Since all this is out of a 6 channel amp measuring 5"X7.5", you know the factory amp must be crap. I really want to upgrade all speakers and use aftermarket amps. The sound from this factory unit is very nice, but at louder volumns, it can be fatiguing. What concerns me with an upgrade is that I will spend $1,500 on speakers and $1,000 on amps and not see much improvement, except in db's. I have listened to the leading speakers in the local car audio stores; Boston Acoustics, Diamond, Focal, JL Audio, MB Quartz, and have not been impressed. I've heard all kinds of excuses from the salesmen; "a car sounds better" (that's a reverse from 10 yrs. ago), "our sound room is not that great", "we only run these speakers off low-watt head units so you can get the "real" effect", and "my speakers must be wired out of phase". I realize that great sound is a very personal matter. However, I have some basic requirements. I need clear, loud vocals, which the TL has. I need a crisp sub, without the boom, and the TL system is a bit weak on sub. I DO NOT want to shake the car next to me, but I want to feel the bass. Finally, and most important, I want good transient response from the mid-bass speakers. I want to feel, as well as hear, the strings of an acoustic guitar, a grand piano and a snare drum, which the TL does decently. I have seen mediocre sound systems installed and tuned by pros that out performed "ultimate" systems installed by journeymen. I am concerned that the factory "mediocre" system, installed by pros will outperform any aftermarket system I install because the crossovers and speakers are "tuned" to this car.
I really appreciate your analysis of this system. I had figured that the "225 watt" amp was 25 watts per channel for 5 channels and 100 watts for the sub. Since all this is out of a 6 channel amp measuring 5"X7.5", you know the factory amp must be crap. I really want to upgrade all speakers and use aftermarket amps. The sound from this factory unit is very nice, but at louder volumns, it can be fatiguing. What concerns me with an upgrade is that I will spend $1,500 on speakers and $1,000 on amps and not see much improvement, except in db's. I have listened to the leading speakers in the local car audio stores; Boston Acoustics, Diamond, Focal, JL Audio, MB Quartz, and have not been impressed. I've heard all kinds of excuses from the salesmen; "a car sounds better" (that's a reverse from 10 yrs. ago), "our sound room is not that great", "we only run these speakers off low-watt head units so you can get the "real" effect", and "my speakers must be wired out of phase". I realize that great sound is a very personal matter. However, I have some basic requirements. I need clear, loud vocals, which the TL has. I need a crisp sub, without the boom, and the TL system is a bit weak on sub. I DO NOT want to shake the car next to me, but I want to feel the bass. Finally, and most important, I want good transient response from the mid-bass speakers. I want to feel, as well as hear, the strings of an acoustic guitar, a grand piano and a snare drum, which the TL does decently. I have seen mediocre sound systems installed and tuned by pros that out performed "ultimate" systems installed by journeymen. I am concerned that the factory "mediocre" system, installed by pros will outperform any aftermarket system I install because the crossovers and speakers are "tuned" to this car.
09-04-2004, 07:49 PM
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spyfish & pdphill, thanks for your work on the sound system.
I've been collecting data on the system's frequency response before/after changes I've been making. I'll post a series of messages in the coming weeks. Keep up the work!
I've been collecting data on the system's frequency response before/after changes I've been making. I'll post a series of messages in the coming weeks. Keep up the work!
09-05-2004, 12:03 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
pdphill:
I see you have been doing your homework on aftermarket products. I to have seen and heard many of the sales tatics out there. There is some truth to what they say. For many years manufactures made speakers to sound good on the sound board and in the car. These two types of listening are almost mutally exclusive. JL Audio for one has gone to sound good in the car only and the sales reps push that on the shops salemens and oh course they apply it to everything.
With that being said, based on your listening taste I would recommend you try some of the following speakers to see if you like them: Diamond (w/ silk tweeter & not metal tweeter), Dynaudio, and Polk. I think you might have seen that I like the Boston's but the Dynaudio are my second favorite speaker for completely different reasons. I have been playing with the idea of just adding some serious power to stock speakers. My experience for a long time has been you can seriously overpower speakers with a clean amp. I do think we have some quality factory speakers, the problem is the output is 10% at only 25W. This will never do! My goal is to maximize the features of the stock amp and cut the distortion from the loop. I am going to try and grap an internal signal, add a pre-amp driver (if necessary) and feed it to some RCA jacks that I could mount in the top of the amp. (Just so everyone knows, that end is connectionless ... all the connectors are at the bottom of the amp so that panel is completely empty so gettting a RCA jack(s) out would be easy.)
I just reread your thread one more time. I like many of the same musical qualities you do such as hearing the attack on a guitar string. I like that so much I choose the Bostons over the Dynaudio. The Dynaudios were better at drums and I am a drummer! (That is how good the Bostons are in my book.) As for the sub, I was thinking 150W and replace the stock 8" with a JL Audio 8W3v2. Attempt to seal and sturdy up that back deck and maybe add some polyfill or insulation to dampen the driver response some more.
I get my shop manual within the next week and I'll start reading what signals are coming into the amp so that should speed things along. I wonder how much another amp from the dealer would be. That would save some time in my "engineering" effort ....mmmm
I see you have been doing your homework on aftermarket products. I to have seen and heard many of the sales tatics out there. There is some truth to what they say. For many years manufactures made speakers to sound good on the sound board and in the car. These two types of listening are almost mutally exclusive. JL Audio for one has gone to sound good in the car only and the sales reps push that on the shops salemens and oh course they apply it to everything.
With that being said, based on your listening taste I would recommend you try some of the following speakers to see if you like them: Diamond (w/ silk tweeter & not metal tweeter), Dynaudio, and Polk. I think you might have seen that I like the Boston's but the Dynaudio are my second favorite speaker for completely different reasons. I have been playing with the idea of just adding some serious power to stock speakers. My experience for a long time has been you can seriously overpower speakers with a clean amp. I do think we have some quality factory speakers, the problem is the output is 10% at only 25W. This will never do! My goal is to maximize the features of the stock amp and cut the distortion from the loop. I am going to try and grap an internal signal, add a pre-amp driver (if necessary) and feed it to some RCA jacks that I could mount in the top of the amp. (Just so everyone knows, that end is connectionless ... all the connectors are at the bottom of the amp so that panel is completely empty so gettting a RCA jack(s) out would be easy.)
I just reread your thread one more time. I like many of the same musical qualities you do such as hearing the attack on a guitar string. I like that so much I choose the Bostons over the Dynaudio. The Dynaudios were better at drums and I am a drummer! (That is how good the Bostons are in my book.) As for the sub, I was thinking 150W and replace the stock 8" with a JL Audio 8W3v2. Attempt to seal and sturdy up that back deck and maybe add some polyfill or insulation to dampen the driver response some more.
I get my shop manual within the next week and I'll start reading what signals are coming into the amp so that should speed things along. I wonder how much another amp from the dealer would be. That would save some time in my "engineering" effort ....mmmm
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09-05-2004, 01:23 PM
#8
Team Owner
Spyfish, when you talk about 10% THD at 25W output power, you're talking about the specs into a 4 ohm load. If you check this thread you will see that at least the front door speakers are 2 ohm speakers. According to the spec sheet, into a 2 ohm load the THD at 30W output power is 0.5% and at 40W it's 10%.
I'm assuming, of course, that the tweeters are not wired in series with the door speakers.
Mike
I'm assuming, of course, that the tweeters are not wired in series with the door speakers.
Mike
09-06-2004, 11:07 AM
#9
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I pulled the back deck yesterday to take a look at the speakers. The rear are the same 6.5" as the doors. Single cone, some kind of polymer. Marked 20 Watts and 2 ohms. No filtering on the speakers. Cutout is 6.5", three hole mounting and maximum mounting depth is about 3 3/8". Seem to be decent speakers for stock. The sub is 8", paper cone, marked 40 Watts and 2 ohms. Cutout for the sub is 7.5" and max depth is 3 3/8". No filtering at the sub, so all filtering must happen in the amp. The sub is located in a metal enclosure of sorts but its not really sealed from the interior. With a little work and some Dynamat, it might be made acceptable since I don't need boom.
Spyfish, thanks for the info on speakers.
Spyfish, thanks for the info on speakers.
09-06-2004, 10:15 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by pdphill
I pulled the back deck yesterday to take a look at the speakers. The rear are the same 6.5" as the doors. Single cone, some kind of polymer. Marked 20 Watts and 2 ohms. No filtering on the speakers. Cutout is 6.5", three hole mounting and maximum mounting depth is about 3 3/8". Seem to be decent speakers for stock. The sub is 8", paper cone, marked 40 Watts and 2 ohms. Cutout for the sub is 7.5" and max depth is 3 3/8". No filtering at the sub, so all filtering must happen in the amp. The sub is located in a metal enclosure of sorts but its not really sealed from the interior. With a little work and some Dynamat, it might be made acceptable since I don't need boom.
Spyfish, thanks for the info on speakers.
Spyfish, thanks for the info on speakers.
svtmike: Nice catch on the THD rating. It still shows that at max volume (around 35 W) that amp has some serious distortion.
09-06-2004, 10:34 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
As there are not going to be many subs to fit that space check this one out.
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/webs..._idq08dvc.html
Image Dynamics does make some really good stuff. It looks like it can handle some power too.
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/webs..._idq08dvc.html
Image Dynamics does make some really good stuff. It looks like it can handle some power too.
09-06-2004, 10:51 PM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks to Mike for putting the pics up on the web. Here they come ... 
Factory amp mounted in the car
Amp removed from the car showing the factory connectors
Circuit board
Close up of the Phillip's output devices
Top of the amp where some RCA connectors could easily be added
Factory amp mounted in the car
Amp removed from the car showing the factory connectors
Circuit board
Close up of the Phillip's output devices
Top of the amp where some RCA connectors could easily be added
09-06-2004, 10:56 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stock tweeters
In addition, here are the pictures of the stock tweeters. I thought they turned out better, but oh well.
Stock tweeter w/ 3.3uF cap mounted to it
Stock tweeter (right) compared to Boston Proseries 5.0 (left)
Tweeter cover
On the last picture, the grill has been seperated from the tweeter. One of the three tabs can easily be filed away to allow for a bigger tweeter to be installed. I ordered two new covers for the amazing price of $7.50 with tax! My goal is no cutting on this car, so will see where I wind up.
Stock tweeter w/ 3.3uF cap mounted to it
Stock tweeter (right) compared to Boston Proseries 5.0 (left)
Tweeter cover
On the last picture, the grill has been seperated from the tweeter. One of the three tabs can easily be filed away to allow for a bigger tweeter to be installed. I ordered two new covers for the amazing price of $7.50 with tax! My goal is no cutting on this car, so will see where I wind up.
09-07-2004, 10:27 AM
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Spyfish007:
Have you figured out yet if the signal going into the factory amp can simply be routed into an aftermarket amp, adapting to RCA connectors without any pre-amp driver? Also, on the sub, there is a round cutout in the metal below the sub, about the size of the sub magnet, into the trunk area. I should have measured its diameter, but didn't. Anyway the existing hole could be enlarged a bit without much trouble and just let the new sub magnet drop through.
Have you figured out yet if the signal going into the factory amp can simply be routed into an aftermarket amp, adapting to RCA connectors without any pre-amp driver? Also, on the sub, there is a round cutout in the metal below the sub, about the size of the sub magnet, into the trunk area. I should have measured its diameter, but didn't. Anyway the existing hole could be enlarged a bit without much trouble and just let the new sub magnet drop through.
09-07-2004, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by spyfish007
[SIZE=3]... My goal is no cutting on this car, so will see where I wind up.
09-07-2004, 01:12 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by pdphill
Spyfish007:
Have you figured out yet if the signal going into the factory amp can simply be routed into an aftermarket amp, adapting to RCA connectors without any pre-amp driver? Also, on the sub, there is a round cutout in the metal below the sub, about the size of the sub magnet, into the trunk area. I should have measured its diameter, but didn't. Anyway the existing hole could be enlarged a bit without much trouble and just let the new sub magnet drop through.
Have you figured out yet if the signal going into the factory amp can simply be routed into an aftermarket amp, adapting to RCA connectors without any pre-amp driver? Also, on the sub, there is a round cutout in the metal below the sub, about the size of the sub magnet, into the trunk area. I should have measured its diameter, but didn't. Anyway the existing hole could be enlarged a bit without much trouble and just let the new sub magnet drop through.
I am still waiting on my factory manual to see what signal are coming into the amp. I am leaning toward buying another factory amp and modifying it. I might be able to make a board to add on to the factory amp and then I could just get them professionally made and people could buy those. I have a feeling there is going to be a good demand for this type of product. I don't think many people want to give up the hands free integration and voice prompts. One thing I don't like about the factory amp is that at volume 1 is it just too loud.
09-07-2004, 10:17 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
After getting the manual in the mail today, I have learned that all the mixing for HFL & NAV happens in the audio control unit. That unit is the piece located in the dash. There are 12 inputs (+ & - for 6 channels), remote turn-on wire, & mute wire. If you wanted full factory wiring you could use the mute signal to kill the turn on wire using a relay. I am therefore going to kill this project as the only thing in the amp now is equalization and x-over functions, which can be replicated easily elsewhere.
The thing to do would be to pick up a good line level converter to adjust levels into the outboard amps. This should work fine and the stock controls should work to adjust each channel.
One other thought ... the connector for the factory tweeters is right behind the glove box if you want to use the factory wiring for the tweeters. The signal gets split into mid and tweeter wires in this connector .... it is the same output from the amp.
The thing to do would be to pick up a good line level converter to adjust levels into the outboard amps. This should work fine and the stock controls should work to adjust each channel.
One other thought ... the connector for the factory tweeters is right behind the glove box if you want to use the factory wiring for the tweeters. The signal gets split into mid and tweeter wires in this connector .... it is the same output from the amp.
09-08-2004, 01:20 PM
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spyfish007:
So using speaker level input is preferable? Most good amps thesedays offer built in speaker level conversion so a separate converter is not needed. Since I'm not an electrical engineering type, please confirm that any degradation of the signal from going to the factory amp and then to a new amp would not be significant? Thanks.
So using speaker level input is preferable? Most good amps thesedays offer built in speaker level conversion so a separate converter is not needed. Since I'm not an electrical engineering type, please confirm that any degradation of the signal from going to the factory amp and then to a new amp would not be significant? Thanks.
09-08-2004, 03:53 PM
#22
Amplify, attenuate, amplify doesn't intuitively seem like the best route. Taking the output of the stock amp gives you its distortion characteristics as well as the extra connections and ground loops for the line converters. I would think you'd be better off taking the signals out of the HU and running those into an outboard amp. Or are you saying that is where you'd put the line converters?
09-08-2004, 05:09 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
pdphill: You can use the low level signals into your aftermarket amp with no worries. You don't want to pick the signals after the factory amp because all of that distortion from the factory amp will be added to your aftermarket amp.
Jesse Dart: My suggestion was to use a line level converter right BEFORE the factory amp when the signals are of RCA type. You can convert the wire type (speaker wires to RCA wires) AND boost up the level of the signal to raise the noise floor. So instead of sending the amp ~ 1V send it ~ 5V of clean power. --I'm make some general statements so don't hold me to the technical letter of the law on the next statement -- The difference here being a line converter/driver will deliever the signal into a relatively high impedence load so it will be a clean signal and it is easy to drive. The aftermarket amp will drive the low impedence load. It is much harder to drive a low impedence load cleanly than a high impedence load.
So any questions?
Jesse Dart: My suggestion was to use a line level converter right BEFORE the factory amp when the signals are of RCA type. You can convert the wire type (speaker wires to RCA wires) AND boost up the level of the signal to raise the noise floor. So instead of sending the amp ~ 1V send it ~ 5V of clean power. --I'm make some general statements so don't hold me to the technical letter of the law on the next statement -- The difference here being a line converter/driver will deliever the signal into a relatively high impedence load so it will be a clean signal and it is easy to drive. The aftermarket amp will drive the low impedence load. It is much harder to drive a low impedence load cleanly than a high impedence load.
So any questions?
09-08-2004, 06:53 PM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
I already own my future front channel speakers - Boston Proseries 6.0. I have sold some equipment (memphis belle & JL 12W6v2) and I am going to sell some additional equipment to fund the stereo in this car. I think I am going to install my Kenwood Sirius tuner and buy a Kenwood 10 disc DVD/CD/MP3 player. I am still unsure of the sub and system amp(s). With the amps I am leaning toward JL "slash" amps which are awesome or the Phoenix Gold Ti900.7 amp which looks good on paper and I have enjoyed other, older PG Ti amps. The project will probably be underway no later than October as I have several items to sell first.
09-09-2004, 09:31 AM
#26
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Spyfish007 & Pdphill,
I have noted this and related threads with great interest. Thank you for doing the research for on behalf of us "electronically challenged" folks who would like to upgrade our sound systems.
Like many of us here, I think I will be leaving the center channel through the existing amp and upgrading the remaining speakers using external amplification. I will try to find connectors (maybe partsexpress.com?) which plug into the factory wiring and amp so I can make a harness to grab the inputs, convert the ones I need and put the center channel back into the factory amp.
I need some help in deciphering the wiring codes and I'd hate to buy a manual just for this page so I am asking for your assistance. I have seen a previous pdphill post that states "Out of the back of the audio unit to the factory amp, the sub input wires are red with blue stripe for + and white with green stripe for -". I see these wire codes in the the 20 pin connector. Am I correct in assuming that these are one and the same wires and all the input leads are in the black shrouded 20 pin connector? Would you be so kind as to give tell me which input wires correspond to the rest of the speakers?
Pardon the lousy diagram but, here is what I see from left to right in that 20 pin connector (looking at the wired end of the connector):
LOCKING CLIP IS HERE
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
A # # B C D # # # #
1 - black
2 - green
3 - orange
4 - white
5 - pink / blue stripe (+ input for subwoofer?)
6 - brown
7 - red / yellow stripe
8 - grey
9 - blue
10 - pink
A - yellow
B - white / light green stripe
C - white / dark green stripe (- input for subwoofer?)
D - yellow / green stripe
Thanks in advance.
I have noted this and related threads with great interest. Thank you for doing the research for on behalf of us "electronically challenged" folks who would like to upgrade our sound systems.
Like many of us here, I think I will be leaving the center channel through the existing amp and upgrading the remaining speakers using external amplification. I will try to find connectors (maybe partsexpress.com?) which plug into the factory wiring and amp so I can make a harness to grab the inputs, convert the ones I need and put the center channel back into the factory amp.
I need some help in deciphering the wiring codes and I'd hate to buy a manual just for this page so I am asking for your assistance. I have seen a previous pdphill post that states "Out of the back of the audio unit to the factory amp, the sub input wires are red with blue stripe for + and white with green stripe for -". I see these wire codes in the the 20 pin connector. Am I correct in assuming that these are one and the same wires and all the input leads are in the black shrouded 20 pin connector? Would you be so kind as to give tell me which input wires correspond to the rest of the speakers?
Pardon the lousy diagram but, here is what I see from left to right in that 20 pin connector (looking at the wired end of the connector):
LOCKING CLIP IS HERE
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
A # # B C D # # # #
1 - black
2 - green
3 - orange
4 - white
5 - pink / blue stripe (+ input for subwoofer?)
6 - brown
7 - red / yellow stripe
8 - grey
9 - blue
10 - pink
A - yellow
B - white / light green stripe
C - white / dark green stripe (- input for subwoofer?)
D - yellow / green stripe
Thanks in advance.
09-09-2004, 06:42 PM
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
You ask and you shall receive ....
@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel in the 20 pin Black & White connector
RF+ Black
RF- Gray
LF+ Green
LF- Blue
C+ Brown
C- Greeen w/White
RR+ Orange
RR- Red
LR+ White
LR- Yellow
SW+ Red w/Blue
SW- White w/Green
Remote Turn-on -> Red w/Yellow
Amp Mute -> Yellow w/Green
@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel in the 20 pin Black & White connector
RF+ Black
RF- Gray
LF+ Green
LF- Blue
C+ Brown
C- Greeen w/White
RR+ Orange
RR- Red
LR+ White
LR- Yellow
SW+ Red w/Blue
SW- White w/Green
Remote Turn-on -> Red w/Yellow
Amp Mute -> Yellow w/Green
09-09-2004, 06:45 PM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
It is easy to get to the connector mentioned above and all the signals are located in this connector. The unit in the dash has the signals in multiple connectors plus the dash has to be taken apart.
09-09-2004, 06:49 PM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
In addition ....
@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel with the 14 pin gray connector contains the speaker outputs if you want to utilize the factory wiring.
RF+ Blue
RF- Red
LF+ Light Green
LF- Purple
C+ Green w/White
C- Blue w/Yellow
RR+ Red w/Blue
RR- Yellow
LR+ Brown w/White
LR- Red w/Yellow
SW+ Yellow w/Black
SW- Light Green w/Red
Ground -> Black
+12V -> White
@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel with the 14 pin gray connector contains the speaker outputs if you want to utilize the factory wiring.
RF+ Blue
RF- Red
LF+ Light Green
LF- Purple
C+ Green w/White
C- Blue w/Yellow
RR+ Red w/Blue
RR- Yellow
LR+ Brown w/White
LR- Red w/Yellow
SW+ Yellow w/Black
SW- Light Green w/Red
Ground -> Black
+12V -> White
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09-09-2004, 06:56 PM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
One last note ....
The tweeter connectors are located behind the glove box in a junction box. There are 6/7 connectors in this bank of connectors. The wire colors in these connectors match EXACTLY to the 14 pin speaker output connector, so you will be looking for red/blue/purple/light green. I can tell you how to test these wires to figure out which wire goes directly to the tweeter if you do not know how to do this test. I have not done mine yet, but once I do, I'll know for sure which wires you'll need.
The tweeter connectors are located behind the glove box in a junction box. There are 6/7 connectors in this bank of connectors. The wire colors in these connectors match EXACTLY to the 14 pin speaker output connector, so you will be looking for red/blue/purple/light green. I can tell you how to test these wires to figure out which wire goes directly to the tweeter if you do not know how to do this test. I have not done mine yet, but once I do, I'll know for sure which wires you'll need.
09-09-2004, 09:22 PM
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Thank you!! I was wondering what I was to do with my weekend and now I know. I may slip the subwoofer pins out of the connector and install the subwoofer and amp since they are left overs from my 2001 TL. I also have a line-level converter so I shall try it and let you know whether it makes a difference in noise, volume etc.
Since I have my V710, I now have a digital camera. I will take some pics and try to figure out how to get them off the phone. I'll be sure to post them to this thread.
Since I have my V710, I now have a digital camera. I will take some pics and try to figure out how to get them off the phone. I'll be sure to post them to this thread.
09-10-2004, 12:27 PM
#32
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
Originally Posted by Chips Ahoy
Thank you!! I was wondering what I was to do with my weekend and now I know. I may slip the subwoofer pins out of the connector and install the subwoofer and amp since they are left overs from my 2001 TL. I also have a line-level converter so I shall try it and let you know whether it makes a difference in noise, volume etc.
Since I have my V710, I now have a digital camera. I will take some pics and try to figure out how to get them off the phone. I'll be sure to post them to this thread.
Since I have my V710, I now have a digital camera. I will take some pics and try to figure out how to get them off the phone. I'll be sure to post them to this thread.
most of the times when you take pics from a cell phone you can send them to others or in this case send them to youself. EMAIL.. then when u open your emails just right click them and save them for your hosting..
09-10-2004, 12:37 PM
#33
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
just a quick questions for you guys that have done a tremendous job figuring all this out.. i am interested in getting an alpine 5 channel amp..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
i think this auction is over but i can still get the amp elsewhere.. now what is your opinion on this.. will it work.. and being 4 channels for HIGHS and 1 for SUB... how will i hook up 7 speakers to this 4 channels? i mean.. i got front right and left and rear left and right. and sub.. but then i got tweeters.. i guess i can do right tweeter to fron right door speaker and left tweeter for fron left door. But is it really neccessary for MID? should i do a 3 speaker setup on one channel?
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
i think this auction is over but i can still get the amp elsewhere.. now what is your opinion on this.. will it work.. and being 4 channels for HIGHS and 1 for SUB... how will i hook up 7 speakers to this 4 channels? i mean.. i got front right and left and rear left and right. and sub.. but then i got tweeters.. i guess i can do right tweeter to fron right door speaker and left tweeter for fron left door. But is it really neccessary for MID? should i do a 3 speaker setup on one channel?
thanks
09-10-2004, 06:41 PM
#35
Team Owner
If I were putting different amps in, I'd probably go with 2 identical 4-channel amps for the tweeters, center, doors, and rear deck (wasting one channel), and then a separate mono amp for the sub.
Mike
Mike
09-10-2004, 11:08 PM
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well if you are looking for a good two amp solution, how about the following:
2 amps - 4 channels each
-------
50 to 75 W RMS each channel amp #1
75X2 -> fronts (mid & tweeter) bridged* 200X1 or 300X1 -> sub
* some amps 3x or 4x when bridged
25 W RMS each channel amp #2
25X2 -> rears bridged 50X1 -> center
2 amps - 4 channels each
-------
50 to 75 W RMS each channel amp #1
75X2 -> fronts (mid & tweeter) bridged* 200X1 or 300X1 -> sub
* some amps 3x or 4x when bridged
25 W RMS each channel amp #2
25X2 -> rears bridged 50X1 -> center
The following users liked this post:
stevemk07 (02-22-2012)
09-11-2004, 09:43 AM
#37
Team Owner
This is better. I forgot the front tweeters and door speakers were driven from a single output on the head unit.
Mike
Mike
09-11-2004, 01:34 PM
#38
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
yeah but i dont really want to waste that much money.. its not as a priority, as it is for you guys.. but i just like this amp, but i see thats 5 channels.. i guess it will work but i have to do this..
4 channesl. HIGHS.
-1-rear right
-1-rear left
-1-front right door along with right tweeter
-1-front left door along with left tweeter
1 channels SUB
-1-channel subwoofer
All this leaves me with CENTER left all alone.. what should i do? can we bridge factory? To amplify it?
Or even bridge factory to power tweeters and leave front doors alone with ALPINE AMP?
4 channesl. HIGHS.
-1-rear right
-1-rear left
-1-front right door along with right tweeter
-1-front left door along with left tweeter
1 channels SUB
-1-channel subwoofer
All this leaves me with CENTER left all alone.. what should i do? can we bridge factory? To amplify it?
Or even bridge factory to power tweeters and leave front doors alone with ALPINE AMP?
09-13-2004, 04:28 PM
#40
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
ohh ok. so basically i guess i will have to do what i did in my 626..
1 channel to front right door along with front right tweeter
1 channel to front left door along with front left tweeter
1 channel to rear right speaker
1 channel to rear left speaker
and
1 channel (sub) to sub.
this leave the damn center speaker with factory amp... i wanted it to juice it up tooo to get the all around surround sound louder.. any pointers you guys can give me? without buying another amp.. ohh and by the way.. did u guys check out the amp i placed the link for? what you think?
1 channel to front right door along with front right tweeter
1 channel to front left door along with front left tweeter
1 channel to rear right speaker
1 channel to rear left speaker
and
1 channel (sub) to sub.
this leave the damn center speaker with factory amp... i wanted it to juice it up tooo to get the all around surround sound louder.. any pointers you guys can give me? without buying another amp.. ohh and by the way.. did u guys check out the amp i placed the link for? what you think?
