fsttyms1

This is not a DIY. Its simply here to show you that it can be done, and done with no major modification. Its here to give you pics and a parts list. Its here simply as a aid for those willing to try it. Dont ask for a DIY instructions. You can ask for help though.

As many of you know im doing the conversion. Im going to sticky this for a while as i do it. Ill post pics as i work on it and post coments as i find stuff. Im going to close it to keep it clean and easier to follow but you will be able to post in the other thread.
here are a few starter pics. More pics will follow with more details as i do stuff.
here is the tranny removed and most all the wiring removed from the engine.
as seen in these pics there is a ton of wiring and honda didnt make it the easist to get to alot of it.




Started gutting the interior. Its amazing what you find with every thing removed. I found 15.43$ in change under the carpet thanks to the usless coin holder with 200,000 miles of use. (also saw there was a little more spilled soda than i thought

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Here is pulling the engine out. Came out really nice. I had to cut the eshaust pipe though, i couldnt unbolt the cat from the factory down pipe or the b pipe. No biggy, ill either reweld it or get a new custom made pipe.





Empty engine bay. Note the mess of wiring.




My neighbor acting like his usual self

Its a 4x4 with out a engine and tranny. Im going to have to look into different springs, the manual tranny is supposed to weigh 150 pounds less than the auto.

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Here are some pics of the 2 trannies side by side (sorry not the best lighting)

The auto is considerably larger and alot heavier. Its the tranny on the bottom


just the manual

Auto






Another shot of partially gutted interior

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Here are a few pics of the clutch pedal mount. I discovered today that the firewall already has the spot for the clutch pedal. You have to remove the bracket that is spot welded in for the parking brake pedal. Once removed you can see the stamped areas where its supposed to be passed thry the firewall. They are most likely there becayse the car shares its platform with the accord.

Here is the pic of the parking brake removed and the mount that will need to be removed.




Here is what it looks like with it removed. My spot weld drill bit broke and wasnt able to get a new one late in the day, so i cut the bracket off. I accidentally drilled to far trying to use a normal bit to drill them out. (doesnt matter since the large hole thats visible needs to be drilled out for the clutch piece any way

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Well First 2nd Gen TL with a Clutch pedal!

Holed drilled thru the firewall







Mounted to the firewall


here is where the master cylender comes thru the firewall on the engine side. Its tight spaces, but it fits. I still need to hook up the res tank to it and run the lines, but im going to do that once the engine and tranny are in. Ill get back to more of this later.

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I love seeing the Big Brown Truck pull up infront of my house!

a few more parts delivered.

Genuine Honda Parts





Manual Engine Wire Harness (new) Lower left corner of pic you can kinda see the Type-S manual ECU



Engine Mounts & Tranny Mounts. (still need 2 more mounts)

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Picked up the motor saturday. Got it with just under 36k miles for 800 bucks.

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Ok well i mounted the tranny to the engine and set it in the engine compartment to test fit for clearance. I need the bolts to the mounts that im missing to get it to sit accuratly in there but its extremly close right now (have slightly smaller bolts slid into place on the tranny mounts on driver side).

It sits higher than the TL-P motor by quite a bit









BUT
It fits.




Im not sure how much the engine rocks under load, but there is around 1/2 inch min at its closest, of clearance across the intire top of the IM. Now i dont believe that the plastic engine cover will fit with out hitting? and im not sure if the hood liner will fit. I guess ill find out down the road wether it hits once i can start driving it.

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I feel like a kid in a candy store. UPS just delivered more goodies!
Got the shifter, clutch flywheel, shift cables, and an asortment of nuts and bolts
im not sure what ill do with the engine cover since it probably wont fit with out hood midification??

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Well i got the old shifter out and test fit the manual shifter. Fits like a glove! Im now working on rewiring the dash.
The center hump had the knockout in it already for the manual shifter, bolt holes lined up perfectly also.




my modified + - shifter


bolt holes lined up perfectly also.

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Did some more work tonight. I got to rewiring the dash. Every thing went ok so far. I have the whole dash rewired, and every thing went into place. Now as long as it does when its put back in





Dash removed



and all out



I didnt take any during the rewire, i was too busy trying to remember where the wires ran, and it was getting dark. Ill take some more shots in the daytime

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Just got one of the last pieces (i hope)

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believe it or not the hood closes with out touching






Manual tranny in and bolted up. Quite a bit smaller than the auto. Waiting for my starter, and need to make a intake or something. also going to redo all teh grounds with good ones


Clutch master cyl




shifter and cables (temp put in)

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here is the CAI i made. I ordered some "U" 3" pipe from jegs, cut and welded it to some 3"straight pipe. Cut in some breather holes and Viola. CAI. its a little rough yet and needs to be fine tuned, and painted but its made atleast.



i had to push it quite a ways over for my filter to fit. Im sure its going to rub, but ill trim that part of the car away so that it wont

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Dont mind the mess. Its a little dirty.

the inner part of the center console


after i modified it to fit the new cupholder. I still need to clean it up and modify the rear heat ducts.




Needed a shifter so i drilled out the stock one to fit the new manual shaft.




Parking brake (from the CL-S manual)



more of the dash and cluster (i now have 16k miles on the car )hahaha

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Got the new timing belt pully. Ill be instaling it later this afternoon. There is deffinatly a difference

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Well in the effort to find out why the car is in a saftey mode i discovered that teh cam pulley and backing cover are different on the manual vs the the auto.

Auto is on left manual is on right

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Got the XS Power header and instelled it. The car runs great and is fast. I still have some interior work to take care of (wiring) and it will be complete. Ill be hopefully finishing that up in the upcoming weeks

here are a few of the header (no fitment issues or resonance)





this is the jog in the pipe for the rear for the manual motor mount. the auto doesnt need that jog

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I need to pick up a few little tabs and clips and a cover for the seat heater button by the parking brake, but other than that, its all assembled and ready to go.

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All done and running great. There is about 1000 miles on it now. I have a few little things to take care of with tabs and clips. I still want to repaint teh engine cover and cai, and front radiator trim piece body color. I also want to get my carpet cleaned and get new floor mats. Mine have 200k miles of hard use.

In the upcoming ill most likely start to put together a parts list of what i used. Hopefully i wont be the only one for long with this conversion

fsttyms1

Well I finally threw together a parts list. There were some misc bolts used, but i got abunch of them from the local hardware store grade 8s)


Engine. J32A2 If needing a new engine look for a CLs-6 motor (if not see below *)
03 CLs-6 speed manual.
03 CLs-6 Manual Engine Harness. 32110-PGE-A11
03 CLs 6 speed ECU
03 CLs-6 Flywheel 22100-PGE-026
03 CLs-6 Flywheel bolts (Qty 8) 90011-PGE-000
03 CLs-6 Clutch Assembly 22105-PGE-305 (unfortunately right now there arent many options for aftermarket clutches)
03 CLs-6 Rear Engine mount and bracket 50810-S3M-A01, 50827-S3M-A00, BOLT (m12X25) 90166-S3M-A00
03 CLs-6 Rearand Front Engine Dampenerand bracket (i would reccomend aftermarket here)
03 CLs-6 Shifter and cables. 54100-S3M-A01, 54310-S3M-A01
03 CLs-6 Starter 31200-PGE-A11 (try to locate used, its expensive)
03 CLs-6 Gauges
03 CLs-6 Hydraulic Clutch lines. 46960-S3M-A01, & 46970-S3M-A01
03 CLs-6 Trans mounts (2 of them) 50806-S3M-A03, 50805-S3M-A03
03 CLs-6 Cup Holder 77230-S3M-A01ZA
03 CLs-6 Parking brake 47105-S3M-A04ZA and to go with it,
Spring 47537-671-670, Nut 47522-594-000, Equalizer pin 47365-538-000, Equalizer 47360-SB2-000


*If you use the J32A2 from the Auto you will need these parts (all from the CLs-6)

Front cam pulley 14260-PGE-A11
Front plate assembly (behind cam pulley) 11860-PGE-A10
Timing belt pulley(lower) 13621-PGE-A11
Crank shaft sensor 37500-PGE-A11 (this little shit costs $500.00)
Subharness for CKP 37501-PGE-A10
TDC Sensors (Qty 2) 37840-PGE-A11
TDC SUB HARNESS 37841-PGE-A10



If you dont already have the Type-s you will want the IMRC 37850-PGE-A01

Brake/Gas pedal assembly from either the accord or CLs-6. (i modified mine)
If you decide to buy it new BRAKE PEDAL ASSY 46600-S3M-A51

Clutch pedal. (this can be from a few cars, i took mine from a 90s civic. it was almost a direct bolt in.
It uses 3 points to bolt in only 2 lined up. I modified a bolt and shim to make it bolt up in the 3rd spot)

If you decide to buy it new you will need the pedal and mount CLUTCH PEDAL 46910-S3M-A01 & CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET 46990-S84-A01
MASTER CYLINDER ASSY 46922-S3M-A01 & Clutch Fluid Tank 46965-S5A-013, & Clutch Hose 46961-S3M-A02
(i used the one from the civic i pulled the clutch pedal out of)

Things im not sure if you will need but i bought.

Relay box assembly (under hood) 38250-S3M-A21
Shift Boot 83414-S3M-A01ZA
Shift Knob 54102-SL0-023ZB

If you have a header you will either have to have the XS header or COmptech header for the manual. Other wise it wont fit
You will be able to reuse the stock manifolds

If you already ahve a Type-s you MAY Not need these????
Right side cabin to engine comp harness 32100-S3M-A12
Left side cabin to engine comp harness 32120-S3M-A20

I Would attempt with out (that i bought and used with out trying without first) It will make not having to do all the rewiring of
that i did.
Upper instrument harness 32117-S3M-A31
Lower dash harness 32150-S3M-A32