Boartman

Has anyone changed the coolant yet?

Couldn't find anything in 3G Garage.I think it wouldn't hurt to change it after

couple of years.Does anyone have a diagram how to drain it?

Thanks for any help.

subinf

there is a drain at the very bottom of the radiator...right in the middle. when the car is in the air its hard to miss. there is even a slot between the tranny skid plate and rest of the plastic under the bumper cover. if you want to drain/fill just loosen the plug. if you want to flush the system you have to hook it up to a machine.

subinf

ok here is a pic...sorry its not specifically of the drain but it gives you an idea of where it is (see very dark red arrow that doesnt show up well)

SodaLuvr

The Genuine Honda Type 2 coolant is technically good for 10-yrs/120,000 miles, which enables to owners to change the coolant at the same time of the timing belt job, at least for the initial change. Thereafter, if memory serves me correct, the service interval is halved for whatever reason. The coolant actually comes premixed 50/50, so I’m not sure why the interval is halved after the initial change. Ford recommends draining the coolant at ½ of the interval after the initial change, due to variations in water quality. I can see Honda’s position on this as the phosphates added to the OAT coolant (DexCool type) are sensitive to hard water, but the coolant comes premixed.

If it makes you feel more comfortable, pay for the Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant from the dealership. It’s quite pricey, around $15/gal for the 50/50 premix. You’ll need about 2 gallons to drain and refill.

I personally change my coolants every 3 years with the long-life coolants. Why? Coolant is inexpensive to drain and refill, and it gives me a chance to refresh the corrosion inhibitors. If the coolant is in good condition visually, there is no need to flush, let alone a chemical flush, unless you’re changing brands, which is when it may be beneficial to remove as much old coolant as possible to allow the new formula to function optimally. Even then, only distilled water; the cost of distilled water is around $0.75/gal at Walmart, and purchasing 5 gallons to do a flush every couple of years will not break the bank.

There is no need to use the peacock valve to drain. Remove the lower radiator hose; it will drain much faster and with less mess. Also remove the engine block drain plug and allow the coolant from the block to drain. If you are unable to locate/access/remove the block drain plug, I wouldn’t worry about it.

Personally, I’d use an aftermarket coolant. The Genuine Honda Type 2 coolant is basically a DexCool type (OAT) formula, but with phosphates added. The aftermarket “straight-OAT” coolants work well, and are much less expensive. They do not contain the added phosphates though, however, but I’ve seen them function equally as well.

Go to Walmart and pick-up a gallon of Prestone All Makes/Models concentrate, its $9/gal. Also purchase 7 gallons of distilled water. Remove the lower radiator hose and allow it to drain. Remove the pressure cap while the fluid is draining. Reconnect the hose once draining is complete. Drain the block if possible. Refill with distilled water. Replace the cap, start the engine, and turn the heater to “MAX.” Allow the engine to idle for 15 minutes. Shut off, and repeat the draining process. Refill once more with distilled water, and idle the car again with the heater on “MAX” for 15 minutes. Drain the system for the final time, and then add 3.5 quarts of new coolant to the system. Top-off the rest with distilled water. Follow the correct procedure to remove air from the system, which I cannot recall at the moment. The next morning, while the engine is still cold, recheck the coolant level and add distilled water only to bring the level up to the “full” mark. The 3.5 quarts of coolant added earlier is enough to generate a 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water mixture in the system, so do not need to top-off with 50/50 premix for this initial top-off. Thereafter though, only top-off with a mixture of the same brand/type 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water.

Hope this helps.

Boartman

Sub and Michael ,


Thanks for reply.I will just drain and refill.$30 for two gallons is OK.

It's a piece of mind.

Boartman

blktl1

Does any one have the manuals Coolant service pages? How to bleed the coolant system when refilling. I just wan to make sure I do it right. if you have them, can you please post them up! thanks in advance!

subinf

Good question, I'd also like to know if there is a bleed valve. I usually just leave the cap off while the motor is running so a bleeder would maket this easier

blktl1

I think they make these radiator caps that have built in bleeder valves. I just want to make sure I am doing it the same way Acura does it!

Ron A

There's no bleed valve, but there is a drain bolt at the rear of the engine that you open in addition to the drain plug on the radiator.

Here's the scans for coolant replacement, and also the scan for thermostat replacement.

blktl1

Thanks Ron!

RickRoush03

just take the radiator cap off, let the car come up to temp and the thermostat will open thurs circulating the coolant and letting out any trapped air.

me1abPSU

I replaced my coolant today and this is what I discovered.

1) Getting to the low point drain on the engine is difficult. Couldn't do it.

2) I was able to get a gallon out of the system. So I didn't drain approx. 2.7 qt from the engine.

silverbulleTL

thanks for the diagrm pics. need to drain the block to convert to a waterless lifetime coolant =)

silverbulleTL

is the block draincock on the drivereside, by the firewall end of the block?
or is it by the crank pulley side of the block, by the radiator side, or the firewall side?

its an 2005 TL.

help is greatly appreciated, as i don't have much time to search with a lil kid and limited time to spend on the car...

silverbulleTL

NVM... i guess coolant change aren't such an issue on here.

i found it anyways.

the TL is now fully block drained, thermo removed for the procedure with compressed air cleaning out the remaining fluids.

however, i was able to get in approx 1.8gal of evans coolant in the complete system... is the system really that small?

anyway, love the NPG+. great stuff!

hata_61

if any of you can get your hands on a vacuum filler than you should give it a try!!.
it goes on to the rad and draws the cooling system into a vacuum. you'll see all the hoses collapse. then the tool has to be submerged into a clean bucket of coolant and it will fill the system with no air in it whatsoever. it works awesome for me especially on hard to bleed cars(nissan's).

boondock saints

I want to do the Coolant swap on my ’05 TL – I have the service pages in front off me.
But after searching under the car and on this site I have not been able to find the location of the Engine Drain Bolt.
The one the service manual says to put the hose on to drain the engine.
I even called the local Acura service shop and he said there is not one L - even though the 05 Service Book references it.
On this site I have heard maybe behind the Passenger wheel or under the battery but nothing concrete.
Any help?
Thanks

LoveMyTL-S

Check on this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597680

The 3G garage is awesome

boondock saints

Thanks - already read that one - it has the directions but not the location of the drain bolt - SilverbulleTL posted he found the location but did not say where

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Looks like it's at the back of the engine passenger side just infront and slightly below the right billows for the steering rack when the wheels are straight. Looks as though it has a nipple so as a rubber hose can be connected.
Just going from a picture.

antonio1083

where is the drain bolt, I'm also having trouble. Is it on the passenger side with a small black rubber hose, where is the bolt to loosen it under the hose? 05 TL

01tl4tl

if its the same/similar as gen2,
there is a radiator drain bolt on bottem of it, and the engine block drain bolt is located passenger side rear of engine at the back side of it

To see it with the car on ramps- you would look straight up between the cv assembly and exhaust pipe
cant reach it from there~

remove passenger front wheel (use a jackstand under the frame rail to the left)
You can reach in and loosen 12mm bolt,

If there is a nipple on it, as you open it a few turns, coolant will flow out that tube- place a length of tubing on it to direct the coolant flow, or it goes EVERYWHERE and is a real slippery pain to clean up

Be sure to follow the owner book instructions on burping the system of air afterwards- Do it exactly or air bubble can get trapped and mess with you
Heater core must be open, put heater on full hot for the drain and refill so it gets fresh stuff and is part of the loop during burping

erick3

lol i needed a coolant flush at one point...then my radiator hose came off and splashed every where. it's a possibility...messy but quite effective. i replaced it with the oem type 2 coolant...all 2 gallons of it

boondock saints

Thanks for the input guys - but I think 3rd gen TL's don't have the drain bolt. I found the location with what Turbonut said and diagram from a service manual - but it was not there. So I guess what the Acura service guy told me was right - 3g's don't have the drain on the engine. Now I can get back to driving

CaryTL

I went to take a look and only found a big bolt at where the drain bolt supposed to be. there's no 12mm bolt with nipple there. mine is '06.

Xpditor

The drain bolt IS there. The engine sits sideways with the "front" of the engine facing to your right if you are behind the wheel. The drain bolt (as shown in the Shop Manual abover) is on the right side (passenger) and faces the rear of the car. It is waaaay up in there. Use a flashlight to find it. You will need a 3/8" ratchet with a long extension and a universal joint. You will be reaching around hot exhaust pipes if the car is hot. Do it on a cool engine.

It is difficult to find the drain bolt.. especially if you don't have a lift. Even then, the mechanic at the dealership couldn't find it until I showed him with a flash light. He said he had to unplug something to get to it. He also would not even try when the car was hot.

Yes, the drain bolt has an obvious nipple in the center. If it doesn't, THAT'S NOT IT.

The mechanic decided he didn't need a drain hose and the coolant went everywhere. He had to spend about 10 mins cleaning everything with Parts Cleaner. I think he will use a hose next time. lol

Until I insisted they drain the block, apparently they never did it like that. They just drained the radiator and added a gallon of Honda/Acura coolant and let it go at that.

I do all my own service work but I don't have a lift so I was forced kicking and screaming to the dealership. That and a tire rotation was $30.

01tl4tl

pretty sad day when the dealership is only doing half the job on a coolant change
and not even aware...

they are supposed to be going to acura training classes and receive Tech Skill level ratings--each job has a minimum tech skill rating-example oil change skill level 1, trans removal skill level 5.
You have to be rated at, or higher, to do a job

Does gen3 have the same secret access point to the block drain by removing the RF wheel and going in thru the side?

I dont want to spread bad info- it does work on my gen2,, much easier than reaching up while under the car -IMO-

01tl4tl

I hope you share your story with the Service MANAGER at the dealership
They need to know when someone is not doing their job

Changing half the trans fluid is one thing, coolant is way different and they say to drain the block for a reason- that acidic thing and the aluminum environment,,,
but I bet the techs dont know that either!

they do a 15 minute drain and refill-burp, get paid an HOUR and go to the next job!!
Many shops pay per completed job- so if a tech can do 12 hours worth of billed labor in 7 hours- he gets paid for 12 hours,,,
thats just a small incentive to find shortcuts you believe the customer will never find out about,,,heck they are going to bring it in for the 105 next year and we will change all the coolant then lol...

BWilson

I have a quick question...how many times should this need to be bled, even if the fill-up was botched? I'm trying to figure out if there's air in my coolant system, or if I have an LHG problem. Temp gauge keeps spiking...

I've already had a couple good "burps" while running the engine with the radiator cap off, but the gauge keeps spiking.

gotkilled

iTrader: (1)

just did it a few minutes ago and it was super easy. maybe 30 minutes top. i jacked up the car, but you don't even really need to jack it up. just look under the bumper/radiator area and look for an empty black area and feel around for a twist cap and connect a rubber tube to the radiator flush outlet. turn on the car, set to high heat, turn off and let it drain. tighted radiator drain off value and fill up with coolant. simple as that and it was my first time doing it!

Xpditor

Dude!

That's what we're talking about. That only drains HALF the coolant. You have to drain the block. The coolant in the block will not drain through the radiator. That's why you can only get a gallon of new coolant in.

subinf

Woah I forgot about my earlier posts.

mglum

Ok, I am having a major problem getting to the drain bolt on the engine block. I realize that simply draining the radiator only removes half the fluid. Would it be possible to drain most of the old fluid using a similar method to the transmission 3x3? In other words, drain the radiator, fill it back up with new fluid, let the car idle for a while, drain the radiator a second time and fill it back up? I dont see why this wont accomplish the same thing in theory? Any opinions?

subinf

That should be ok

Xpditor

Believe it or not, that's what the dealerships do.

I tried my best to drain the block but was unable because I don't have a lift and the drain bolt is hard to get to. To complicate matters, you have to go right up close to the exhaust pipe (usually hotter than Hell). So, I took it to the dealer...... see my previous post for details of that event.

I did it at 5 years (even though I had less than 20k miles). I will do it again in another 5 years. I used genuine Honda/Acura coolant even though it is a pricey rip-off. If I ever have an expensive engine failure, even though out of warranty, I want to be able to prove that I meticulously maintained the car by the book and then some. They have already done some work at no charge even though I am over the warranty time period but still under for miles.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Couldn't you just place a rubber plug over the radiator fill cap, cut a hole in the plug, and blow the rest out with compressed air?

Xpditor

QUOTE=DeathMetal;11826162]Couldn't you just place a rubber plug over the radiator fill cap, cut a hole in the plug, and blow the rest out with compressed air?[/QUOTE]



I don't know. Why don't you try it and let us know how that works out?

Adobeman

Did this job today. Cold car first thing in the morning. Took my time so it was about 1hr all in all.

The engine drain is tucked up there pretty good. I got the front of the car on jack stands with the right front (passenger) wheel removed.

To get the block drain open I needed to use an extension on a 12mm socket. I found the following "contraption" worked best. From socket to handle here's what I used. 12MM 3/8 drive 6pt socket -> 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter -> 3" extension -> 1/4 drive ratchet handle. The 12MM 3/8 will actually slide all the way onto the nipple but a 3/8 ratchet handle won't fit up in there so that's why the adapter and smaller drive handle.

You definitely want to put the tubing on the nipple like the shop manual says once it's loose. It's much cleaner that way for sure.

Since I didn't see any pictures anywhere of the block drain so I snapped a few of them for ya'll. The manual has a pretty good drawing but I know pictures are preferred by many.

Xpditor

I needed that.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Wow, awesome pics, dude.

I just drained/filled 5x from the radiator, which, from a theoretical standpoint, should leave me with only about 5% of the original coolant in the system.