Driving on cracked rotor

Old 06-27-2007, 09:26 AM
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Driving on cracked rotor

First of all, let this be a lesson to all of you because I have learned the hard way. DONT CHEAP OUT ON YOUR ROTORS. I purchased a set of drilled/slotted rotors from r1concepts on ebay about 8 months ago. The first set warped within two weeks, but the company replaced the rotors for me. The second set has been on my car since, and has gradually begun to warp.


My buddy and I decided to lower the car some more last night, and upon doing so I discovered that the driver front rotor has a crack about half way through it(meaning it starts at the top of the rotor but does not go all the way down to the hub) originating from one of the drilled holes. My question is- will it be ok to drive with the rotor like this until the new ones come in? The TL is my only car so I am out of transportation without it.
Old 06-27-2007, 09:33 AM
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replaceee it noww and save a life just in case it crack while you are driving and your brakes dont work! lol
Old 06-27-2007, 10:07 AM
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if its just a hair line crack id say if you had to it would be ok, Just take it easy. Odds are you have been driving on it like that for awhile. That is the problem with cross drilled rotors that weren't designed to be cross drilled.
Old 06-27-2007, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
if its just a hair line crack id say if you had to it would be ok, Just take it easy. Odds are you have been driving on it like that for awhile. That is the problem with cross drilled rotors that weren't designed to be cross drilled.

This is what i was thinking as well, it is a hairline crack. Do these types of cracks spread fast or gradually?
Old 06-27-2007, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SSMTL01
This is what i was thinking as well, it is a hairline crack. Do these types of cracks spread fast or gradually?
If it is cracked, the rotor's integrity is compromised. If the crack is only on the surface, i.e. is not visible on the backside, then it's not as bad, but still not good to drive on.

Consider this: lets say that the rotor is turning as you're braking and the crack is advancing towards the brake pad. As this happens, everything is fine, as the crack is experiencing compression (trying to move forward into the brake pad, pad is pushing rotor back the other way, creating a compression zone in the rotor right above the pad). However, as the crack passes through the brake pad and comes out the other side, it now experiences a tension zone. This is the problem area - that tension area, due to the reverse of what I just described, will put huge amounts of stress on the non-cracked area.

See the picture below for a visual of what I'm talking about.

Old 06-27-2007, 01:03 PM
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The crack is all the way through. I have a new set coming in tomorrow, so the only driving i'll be doing is to pick it up. I appreciate the help guys
Old 06-27-2007, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SSMTL01
The crack is all the way through. I have a new set coming in tomorrow, so the only driving i'll be doing is to pick it up. I appreciate the help guys
Good luck, hopefully the new rotors work out better for ya!
Old 06-27-2007, 02:10 PM
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dammit, i had hope for the ebay rotors. one down .

i have had mine 2 months, i have raceconcept rotors. no issues yet...

in all my research on the drilled brembos blanks, it seems like 1 out of 15 reviews/comments had issues. sorry to hear about that. i hope im one of the other 14 lol

what did you get to replace it? did r1 cover it?
Old 06-27-2007, 02:14 PM
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Good luck to you man - should have gone with the racing brake rotors - I love mine!
Old 06-27-2007, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SSMTL01
First of all, let this be a lesson to all of you because I have learned the hard way. DONT CHEAP OUT ON YOUR ROTORS. I purchased a set of drilled/slotted rotors from r1concepts on ebay about 8 months ago. The first set warped within two weeks, but the company replaced the rotors for me. The second set has been on my car since, and has gradually begun to warp.
No, you should say "don't cheap out on X-DRILLED rotors". They simply drill holes into the rotor blanks which are not designed to have holes drilled, thereby weakens the rotors considerably. The real X-drilled rotors are made from strengthened steel and possibly cryogenically processed, so they are expensive but safe.
Old 06-27-2007, 08:24 PM
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I debated on those. But I didnt see any logic in skimping on such a critical component. I went with EBC slotted and dimped and havent had any warping or cracking at all.
Old 06-27-2007, 08:24 PM
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