NipenTL

Just wanted to share my experience from a few weeks ago with my '99 TL. It was a Friday evening and I was heading home from work looking forward to getting home. I was on the highway in cruise control going about 110 km/h (70 mph) when suddenly the "check engine" light came on and the car decelerated rapidly. I hit the accelerator and the speed picked up again and the light went off. I thought maybe I had canceled the Cruise by mistake, so I resumed the Cruise and carried on. A few minutes later the same thing happened again and now I was worried, because the car started jerking a bit. Next, the Check Engine and TCS lights started flashing, so I figured something was amiss. Well, when wisps of smoke started coming from the steering column I figured something was really wrong, so I pulled off onto the shoulder. I know there is wiring in the steering column so I thought it must be an electrical problem. I popped the hood but all seemed ok in there. Anyway, I called the tow truck and had the car towed to a garage (closed by now). The garage checked it out the next day and diagnosed a failed ignition switch. Repair cost was $250.

Weird thing was that early in the Summer my a/c stopped working properly - it was blowing but air was not cold. The dealership said it would cost about $200 just to try and figure out what the problem was, so I never bothered to pursue it. It was such a mostly wet, cool summer that I managed fine with the windows open. Anyway, when the ignition switch was replaced, the a/c started blowing cold. I never would have thought there was a correlation between the ignition wiring and the a/c.

Not sure if anyone else has had this kind of problem, but it was rather scary, especially with the burned-out switch and the smoke but also because the car decelerated so rapidly. Luckily traffic was light at the time, but I was thinking afterwards that the car slowed down so quickly that someone could easily have rammed into me from behind.

Bob_F

Thanks for sharing your experience. You can get all sorts of bizarre behavior with a failing ignition switch.

Did your TL already have the ignition switch replaced under the recall? If not, Acura would have installed a replacement for free.

Also, the replacements can and do fail. My 1999 TL is on its third ignition switch. If your new switch does fail at some point, you can install it yourself to save some money. (The switch can be found for about $60 online.)

NipenTL

Yes, the ignition switch was previously replaced under the recall. Good point about the DIY - the part was only $80 but labour was $170. I'll do it myself next time.

truonghthe

Yes I remembered my ignition switch had gone bad in my 99 AV6 and the dealer replace it for free since I was a recall lol.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Part is like $52. Labor should be no more than 1 hr. I didn't know what I was doing and did it in less than that.

wise2k

Totaly agree with the above members; I did mine from a DIY from here without really knowing what I was doing. Part cost me $42; saved myself $110 in labor This forum rocks.

thinhthan

when ever i drive sometimes my car will just turn off and it seems like the ignition switch is messed up cause i will just jiggle the key and the car will turn back on. willl the dealer still change it although my car is not under warrenty or anything?

Bob_F

That sounds like classic behavior for a failing ignition switch. Get it replaced soon to avoid the risk of getting stranded somewhere. And losing power at the wrong time could also cause an accident.

If there was a recall for the ignition switch for your TL, Acura will install a new one for free. There is no time limit on recall items. But they will only replace it once. You're on your own if it's been replaced under the recall previously.

You can check on the recall by registering your car on OwnerLink or by calling Acura. In either case you'll need your VIN number.

01tl4tl

99s had the recall on ignition switch

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't matter if there was a recall because most likely it has been fixed already. Units replaced under the recall and other units after that are failing as well. Pay the $50 and get a new one.

3.2TLc

I've recently replaced my 2000 TL's alternator & battery at 150k , but every so often the starter won't engage as though it has no power to it. Jiggling the key or moving the shifter seems to help get the motor started. Could this be a failing ignition switch or some other "interlock" causing this problem ? Thanks for any input !

truonghthe

Well that will decide by your VIN #.

thinhthan

who do i tell my vin to to see if i can still get it replace for free?

Bob_F

You can call Acura's national toll-free number or your local Acura dealer. (I don't have the national number handy but you should be able to find that quickly online.)

You can also register your TL on Acura's OwnerLink site and see the status of all recall items. You'll need your VIN number for that also.

fsttyms1

Acura or the Dealer

numairrr

I'm having problems with my ignition switch too, and Acura had it replaced once before per the recall. I'm looking into buying a new one, but I'm confused as to which is the correct part. Contrary to the info I'm seeing here, I've read online that:

"Models that have had the ignition switch replaced under this recall should use switch 35130-S84-305 instead of the original 35130-S84-A01 switch."


Is this correct? Which is the correct part?


Thanks.

numairrr

I found a ignition swith at Autozone for like $50; it's made by Duralast. Would this be okay to use? The Acura dealership is like $10 more, but they will not take returns on electric parts, and I'm not really sure my problem is with the ignition...
Soo, is Duralast a trustworty product?

Thanks.

cole1247

2000 Acura TL 3.2
Issue: Upon start (can be any fresh start, not just 1st of day) car may not start initially or will start with missing (similar to misrouting of plug wires). Once started if accelerator is depressed to idle at 2K for 5-seconds car will catch up and idle / run fine without issue.

I am a DIY. However, working 50+ hours so took to trusted mechanic. He advised only occured once for him. Possibly bad fuel or likely valve adjustment. Specifically exhuast side. He recommended taking into Acura dealership as they have the right tools. Acura kept car for 1-week. Started daily and even made it their daily driver with my permission. No issue.

Drove myself for an additional 2-weeks without issue. Today car had issue 4-consecutive times.

I noticed the ignition was slightly more difficult to turn during these times. Also, the TCS and Service Engine Light come on only during these times (when car is not starting properly). Emergency brake light will come on as well.

I believe the issue is electrically related and possibly even into the ignition.

Any insights from those of you far wiser than I is appreciated.

Regards,
Joshua Cole
cole1247@hotmail.com

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Are the lights coming on when the car isn't starting? Do you hear any clicking? Not like a dead battery trying to start a car clicking but quieter than that. Chances are it is the ignition switch. You can order it from an online dealer and do it in less than an hour.

edouglas1

I tried to install a new ignition switch on my 1999 Acura TL since the old one was replaced under recall. I purchased the switch from Acura but when I try to install, it won't fit flush in the cylinder. I'm using part #35130-s84-305. Are ther any suggestions?

Bob_F

Based on a quick Google search, that looks like the right part number. Have you tried to re-install your original switch to see if that fits properly? That will tell you if you're aligning it properly.

And can you describe in more detail how it's not fitting?

When I replaced the ignition switch in my 1999 TL I don't recall any problems with getting it to fit.

edouglas1

Yes sir. Thanks for the reply. For some reason the new switch seems to be bigger than the old one. I put the old one back and it fits flush into the back of the ignition. the new one will not go all the way in as if the housing is too big on the end part (little white circular part). Maybe I need to angle it or try a different method. Do you have any suggestions? I went back to the dealer and it is the right part. I also went to NAPA and they have the same part, not sure what to do?

Bob_F

Well that does sound odd.

Is there a part number on the switch itself? If so, double check that. If not, perhaps you got the wrong switch. (You could bring it to your dealer's parts department and compare it with another one.)

jdfurr0101

Hi
I have a 2002 Acura TL 110,000 miles. I had the car for about 2 years now with no issues till now. My wife was coming home from work and the car just cut off she said it would not start back up right away had to wait for about 10 minutes or so and it started back up did this one more time before she made it home. I did some research and see the Ignition Switch would go bad on these, after a week I went to advance auto parts pick up a Duralast for 55.00 put it on and the car did not have any more issues for over a week till today it started done it again, could I have got a bad new switch do they go right back out after a week or is the Duralast not a good part, I was driving it this time and took about 10 minutes before the car will start back up just turns over but I wait a bit and it turns back on cut off on me two times today any help Thanks

3.2TLc

Welcome Jdfurr0101 !!!

So, for the past 2 years you've had no problems with your '02 TL now @ 110k, but have recently had an issue with the car "shutting off" and being unable to restart afterwards.

While this does appear to be similar to a faulty ignition switch, it may possibly be something else. Could possibly be the PGM-FI main relay for the fuel supply. Does the car's starter attempt to crank the motor over normally after it shuts down ? Could try having the fuel pressure checked.

Was the car's electrical system load tested ? This testing service of the starting and charging is available at most auto parts stores for free. It'll help to determine if the battery, alternator or starter are all functioning properly. Also, inspect all the wiring connections and all ground wires, especially from the battery to the tranny. This is a common issue.

How did the old ignition switch appear after removal ?
Any signs of discoloration from internal arcing ?
Any other odd electrical or running problems recently ?
Any starting issues when the car has been sitting for awhile, such as first start in the morning ?

jdfurr0101

Yes it turns over normal after it just shuts off, wait for a bout 10 minutes or less and it will crank back up, what got me is that it started on a Thursday when see was on the way home cut off two times on her, then I put a new switch on it a week later and it add no more issues for over a week about 500 to 600 miles or more before it cut on her within 40 of each other the first time.

3.2TLc

Ya gotta hate having a car randomly doing this shit while your wife is driving it. Bad enough with one of us tough guys. But, this is a serious and potentially dangerous problem with a car shutting off going down the freeway at 70 mph. So, cold starts have always been good....huh ?

All i know is to recheck your wiring connections to the ignition switch and closely inspect all of the associated wiring and components. May be something loose, IDK. Your best bet would be to obtain a wiring diagram for the circuit. Recheck the battery terminal connections and especially the grounds.

jdfurr0101

I got another switch today will put that one on and if it does it again I know for sure it is not the switch, do not think I could get two bad ones back to back

3.2TLc

Good luck with the new switch. If for some reason, the car still dies and won't start.....here's a thread on how to test the fuel pump and PGM-FI main fuel relay:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/my-engine-turns-but-wont-fire-up-882103/


Post #16, by Fsttyms1

jdfurr0101

well I did not put the new switch on, I look in to the PGM-FI main relay and see if that would be the issue. I turn the car on it run for about 10 Minutes or so at 2000 rpms and she cut off, I tried to crank it right back up but it just turn over no fire, then I listed for the fuel pump buzz when I turn the switch over and did not hear one tried to start a couple more times but would not, waited for about 20 minutes or so and turn the switch on and I heard the buzz sound for a couple seconds and tried to start and she started right up, I took the relay out and one of the spots on the board look funny, I hope this is the issue

3.2TLc

Yeah man, worth a shot.....sometimes the relay's internal soldering weakened and caused intermittent issues similar to what you had originally described. If the car normally started ok when cold, but was not restarting for 10 minutes after taking it's shit fit of shutting down......sorta led towards the relay more so than the ignition, IMO. Especially after you installed a new ignition switch and had the same identical problems as before. Maybe buy a new relay for about $50.....try it, and then take the other new switch back if it works.

01tl4tl

as I was reading thru the post I was thinking FPR, and finally you reached the same conclusion
Bad spots definitely not a good thing!!!

Did you already take care of the every 7 years or 105kmiles -timing belt water pump tune up major service yet?

jdfurr0101

put the new relay on drove it for over a hour has not shut off, I sure hope this is it, will post back in a week or two and let you know what happens Thanks a ton

jdfurr0101

not yet I need to do that