JCJC2U

Just installed the new VIPER 5901 with Remote Start on 2008 Acura TL automatic and thought I would share with everyone my install. Let me start by saying this is really not a bad install. Anyone that can see wire colors, solder wire and use a voltage tester can do it.

Viper 5901 is vipers latest alarm with remote start. It has a digital readout remote that works up to a mile away per the paperwork. I’m not sure exactly how far but I can start my car from at least a half mile away. Lock and Unlock from even further. And the 2 way remote gets feedback that your command worked.

The XK01 is a module that makes it to where you do not have to wire to your doors locks/triggers, trunk release/trigger and hood trigger anymore. It reads that info from the TL’s onboard computer.

The PKH34 is a module that tricks the TL’s onboard computer to think you have a key in the ignition. (since you have a transponder in your key that the car is looking for)


Costs:

Viper 5901 297.40 From sigmaenterprises on AMAZON.COM
XK01 56.00 From www.caraudio-caralarms.com
PKH34 39.00 From www.caraudio-caralarms.com

Few Snap connectors, crimp connectors and small wire from auto parts store 25 bucks.

Local install place wanted 756$ to do this install. That’s 338 bucks in LABOR!!! I do have 5 hours of install time in this and some other time reading manuals. If I had this guide I’m writing for you I could have done in 3 hours!


Let start by saying you want to get the XK01 from a place like www.caraudio-caralarms.com because they have will flash it for the TL at no extra charge.

PKH34 comes ready for TL.



Now for the Install:


Charge the digital remote. (Its rechargeable, been going for 2 weeks for me and only lost one bar of 4)


REMOVING PANELS:

Remove cover above pedals. (Just pry’s out)

Remove cover with the VSA button, heated mirrors button and mirror control. (Pry out push connector at bottom right then just pull the entire panel out toward you. There are multiple spring type connectors holding it in. You will have to tug.)

Remove all 4 attached wiring harnesses and plastic hose.

Removing Steering Column covers can seem a bit tricky. Clips are not very strong be careful.

Remove 3 phillips screws under the column. You can see where the two pieces that wrap column are connected. You need to push on one and pull on the other to unlatch connectors starting with the side of the column then work your way around.

Important: Do all install with the column adjusted all the way up and out so the wires don’t intall too short.

Open hood and remove all the engine covers.


INSTALLING ALARM: (REMOTE START WILL BE IN ANOTHER SECTION)


I installed my siren in the only place I could find in engine compartment to do so. Looking at the engine, standing at the acura symbol on front, there is a small space at the bottom left corner of engine near radiator. There is already a bolt that you can back out and attached the siren too. I had to bend a away a radiator hose a bit and installed the siren looking at ground. Be sure you tuck the siren in the engine compartment not on top so your covers go back on . There is also another bolt nearby that I lugged my black ground wire to. Ran power wire up the left side and across the engine near windshield wipers to the firewall where the existing wires from inside the car go to the engine compartment. Used a metal coat hanger and punched through the outer rubber in connector on the inside of car to the engine compartment. Taped on some wire I bought and pulled through. Crimped in engine compartment to sirens RED wire.

Next we start hooking up wires to the 5901 harnesses. BE SURE when you route wiring and connect that you do so in a way that when your done the Viper 5901, XK01 and PHK34 can slip up in the cubby hole behind where your VSA and mirror controls are.

Due to the XK01 not many wires are needed on the VIPER for the security part of this system.

5901’s H1 harness: No Need in having the harness connected to VIPER right now

Connect the Black chassis ground to a ground. I just lugged it and used an existing bolt down to the left of fuse panel inside car.

Connect the Brown Siren wire to the wire you pulled from engine compartment earlier.

Connect the Red 12V+ to a constant in car. I used the constant at the harness for the trunk release button in panel you removed. Using a snap on type connector so you don’t have to cut car’s wire. (Use voltmeter to find it with car off)

No more wires are used in this harness. Tape them up!



XK01 Install:

You will only use one wire in the 10 pin harness.

Connect the Violet wire (Pin 5) to the data wire in the car using a snap on connector. This wire is located at pin 4, bottom row of 21-PIN, Green Plug above the fuse panel that is near foot pedals. Its Brown/Black. (Count the pins, there is only one connector that has 21 pins.) Remember the pin 4 will count backwards since you are looking at a plugged in connector.

Plug in the 4 wire D2D cable to XK01 and then to VIPER 5901.




Using Viper wiring guide hook up the following:

Neutral Safety Switch, with it on.

The Valet switch/antenna at the 4 pin antenna connector, 2 pin valet pin and 2 pin status LED connectors.

H1 harness (alarm might go off… be ready to disarm.) (XK01 light should come on)





Turn key to ignition, LED on XK01 should go off. Module is now programmed.

Turn off key.

Try out the alarm, lock/unlock, trunk release functions of car. Should be working fine!

(Note if you plan to not install the remote start you will have to install the Pink wire (PIN 1) on the H3 harness. If you don’t the alarm will never know the car has been started. This resets alarm info and stops the Valet Switch led from flashing all the time.)



REMOTE START INSTALL:

(Hardest part of install is the soldering)

Using the 5901’s H3 harness we will need to solder a few connections to car.

First trim off two sections of the red wire in harness PIN 6 after fuse. (Using razor blade trim off less than an inch of insulation with out cutting wire, this will mean you will see harness then insulation, then fuse, then insulation, then a small exposed wire spot, then insulation, then another small exposed wire spot, then insulation.) You are going to be soldering on two of the H3 wires to this wire to “Jump” them together to get 12V+. Leave enough slack on the end to be able to solder on red wire to car wire under steering column. (Hope that’s not too confusing)

Solder RED/WHITE in harness PIN 2 to exposed spot in RED wire.

Solder RED/BLACK in harness PIN 9 to other exposed spot in RED wire.

Under the steering column you will see two small green connectors at key and one large reddish connector with large wires. This large connector is the one you will need to solder to. Disconnect connector and let hang. (you will need to trim back factory tape for some room to work with)

Solder RED wire PIN 6 to the white wire in car. Using same exposed wire method.

Solder PINK wire PIN 1 to the Black/Yellow wire in car.

Solder ORANGE wire PIN 3 to the Black/Red wire in car.

Solder PINK/WHITE wire PIN 7 to the White/Red wire in car.

Cut the BLACK wire in car in middle for starter kill (Manuals say it should be BLACK/WHITE mine was not)

Crimp on VIOLET wire PIN 4 to starter side of Black wire.

Crimp on GREEN wire PIN 5 to connector side of Black wire.

BE SURE THE TAPE UP ALL SOLDER/CRIMP POINTS VERY WELL!

PINK/BLACK wire PIN 8 is not used. Tape it up!



Remote Start 5 Pin Connector:

Black White wire PIN 1 should be connected to ground in car. ( I just used snap on connector to my black ground on H1)

Brown wire PIN 3 needs to be connected with snap on connector to white/black wire @ brake pedal switch plug.

PIN 2, 4,5 are not used. TAPE THEM UP!




Remote start auxiliary output, 5 pin connector:

Blue wire PIN 5 needs to be connected to PKH34 10 pin harness PIN 1 Brown wire.

PIN 1,2,3,4 are not used. Tape them UP!




PKH34

D2D is not used in this install guide for PKH34 cause it did not work for me. (Its actually less work anyways to not have to splice D2D cable)

At steering wheel column you have seen the two green harnesses. One is 7 pin and one is 6. Disconnect the 7 pin, it will be used during this install. (you will need to trim back factory tape for some room to work with)

Pin 1 of this harness is the brown/yellow wire. (count from there)

Connect the PKH34 pin 5 VIOLET wire to PIN 2 on the car using a snap type connector. (Manuals say its RED/BLUE, mine was yellow)

Cut the PIN 5 wire on the car in middle. (Manual says its Blue/Orange but mine was more of a solid tan color)

Connect the PKH34 pin 6 PINK/WHITE to the connector side of Pin 5 car wire.

Connect the PKH34 pin 7 PINK to the car side of Pin 5 car wire.

Connect the PKH34 pin 8 ORANGE wire to PIN 6 on the car. (Manual says wire is Black/Blue but mine was Black/Green)

Connect the PKH34 pin 9 RED to 12V+. I just used a snap connector to my wire on the 5901’s H1 connector.

Connect the PKH34 pin 10 BLACK to ground. I just used a snap connector to my wire on the 5901’s H1 connector.

The PKH34 pin 2,3,4 are not used. Tape them up!




Using 5901’s wiring guide connect the following:

H3 harness

Remote Start 5 Pin Connector

Remote start auxiliary output, 5 pin connector

Then,

PKH34 10 pin connector



Press and hold PKH34 program button.

Turn the ignition to on, LED should blink. (Mine just went out)

Release button, it is now programmed.




Before we try starting car you must change some programming on the Viper 5901. This is done by pushing the valet switch/antenna’s button multiple times, listening for chirps and pushing lock/unlock on remote.

Use the VIPER manual to figure out how to do this (reference page 39-52) and change the following:

Menu 3, item 1 to opt 2 (AUTOMATIC)

Menu 3, item 8 to opt 2 (ACCESS 2)

I also chose to change the following:

Menu 1, item 1 to opt 2 (if you want it to auto arm without locking doors)





Try to start the car yourself. After that works try the remote start out. Should work great!

Once your satisfied tuck wiring into cubby hole, tywrap stuff up and put covers back on.

Congrats on your install!


I think I got everything. If you see I left something out just email me at JCJOINES@sbcglobal.net


Next up is converting my NO NAV to NAV. Ordered everything with the custom connectors from ebay. Wish me luck. Will let you know how it goes.


-JC

JCJC2U

I forgot to add that I'm using the digital remote and my valet key for my normal use but the Factory remotes will still control unlock/lock doors and pop trunk after install. It also arms/disarms the 5901.
The 5901 remote will not Roll down windows and open sunroof by holding down the unlock button like factory does. But if your like me... who uses that?
Also,
When using remote start. You remote start vehicle from outside car, disarm alarm, open door, get in without hitting brake, put key in and turn to ignition, then hit brake to deactivate remote start.
(when outside car you can deactivate remote start by hitting the button again.)

Hope my info helps!

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Dude thats awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to make this post. I always knew installing an alarm wasn't that difficult at all, just a bunch of wires needed to be connected!! And with that module you listed it seems like it really makes the connections that much easier!! The only thing that is lacking in this great post is pics! If you had that, it would be straight up 3G Garage material!!

I think I'm going to try upgrading my alarm system to this in the summer so this post definitely helps!!

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Also I heard with that module, you can program it to open and close the windows with the remote and also close windows and sunroof on arm. Since it uses the TL's computer all you have to do is instruct it to do what you want at the time.

pffpffpass

iTrader: (2)

Wow this my friend is a great post.. You are an asset..

Anywho, I know its not the safest idea but I wanted to install this on my 6spd MT.. I ALWAYS park in Neutral with Ebrake.. Is there anything to trick computer that clutch is depressed? Is this doable? Thank you

pffpffpass

iTrader: (2)

Well after more research, I have learned that the 5901 unit does not need any other modules for a manual tranny.. It has a Remote start procedure you must follow to work..

"autostart has a fuction when you pull ebrake, the ignition is powered, remove key, open door car stays runing, close door, car shuts down and now its ready for RS"

In other words you must enable the RS feature when your car is still running and about to park, so when you get out it is obviously in Neutral.. Then car will shut down, lock and be ready for Remote Start..

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Great write-up! Pics would have been nice.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up -- and congrats -- that first r/s-alarm install is always a bit tricky .. luckily we have the PK and XK products now, before we had these, we had to hunt down every wire...

What did you use for your tach wire? The tach output on the PK module? XK module?

I prefer tach at the ignition coil because it doesn't overGRIND the starter.. invariably, in the extreme cold, your XK or PK module's tach output will lag behind the engine starting and you'll get a slight overgrind -- perhaps the new modules are improved.

Or are you using voltage sensing?

I can't overstress -- always voltmeter each and every wire. I do prefer to solder everywire as I never trust those crimp-ons.. but some people swear by 'em, so it's dealer's choice.

Nice work! Enjoy your r/s!

JCJC2U

Sorry about the pics... thought about it after I closed it up.

And as far as the manual tranny is concerned your right it the 5901 definately is capable of doing it but I did not do any research on that since I have an auto.

-Glad the post is appreciated!

JCJC2U

You don't have to hook up a tach wire. New to the 5901 is Virtual Tach. (which is basically just voltage sensing) It has its own logic built in for it. Only can use that function for an auto tranny though.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

voltage sensing -- questionable sensing in very cold temps... lemme know how reliable it is when you have a few extremely cold starts ( < 25 deg F)... never met a voltage-sensing unit that I liked...

If you ever decide to do tach -- lemme know, I'll let you know where to drill in the firewall and what wire to snag at the ignition coil.

For manny tranny... you can use an auto version r/s brain .. just ground the clutch wire at the switch about the clutch and it'll "pretend" like the clutch is depressed during the r/s sequence.. use the GWR (-) output.

JCJC2U

Well its funny you should say <25 deg F I live in Southeast Texas... We might get that once a year. Usually in Feb though so I'll let ya know! (Our extreme weather is Hurricanes!)

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

LOL... you should be JUST fine... here in the windy city, our < 25 degree weather lasts months .. therefore tach sensing is a priority...

nfnsquared

I'm about to do this install on a M/T. I'd like to see this info. Thanks!

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

blue or black wire at the ignition coil -- test with a multimeter (use any ignition coil, i used the one to the right of the engine closest to the front of the vehicle). Make sure you overtape with electric tape or use heatshrink tubing.

As far as drilling, I found drilling around the area in the firewall where the brake and the accelerator meet the firewall is the best place. Triple check on the engine side that you're not drilling into anything important. the next safest place is on the passenger side and you'd have to take down the glove box to access it... i found that a PITA, so I found the alternative spot aforementioned.

GIXXERDK

Feel free to do this on my car and take pics for this awesome step by step!

nfnsquared

Thanks PeterUbers! Now I just have to find someone to flash my canmax400dei or fork over $120 for the XKloader2!

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

You can do it on the 6MT, but remember, you can NEVER leave your car in gear. As soon as the car starts, it'll stall!

nfnsquared

No, the viper works fine with or without M/T. What I was referring to is the need to transit the firewall to hook into a coil wire to get the tach sensing hooked up on an M/T.

nfnsquared

I need to flash my canmax400dei bypass. I can use either the xkloader2 ($125) or the xklint ($25). What's the difference (beside price), anyone know?

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

http://www.directechs.com/Education/FAQ/FAQ_Bypass.pdf

and I quote:

With a XKloader2, you need to XKLint ONLY if you want to flash a CANMAX400/DEI not docked. If you have a 5202x and you can dock it, or you have a canmax400, you don’t need the XKLint at all.

...

This is gettin' pricey for you... curious why you didn't do a CAN-SL2 and Honda-SL3 or PK combo? Canmax is $80 and now the loader will be $125...

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

usually the seller/distributor will flash with the latest firmware ... no-go from your seller?

nhn23

iTrader: (4)

i am thinkin about getting this unit.i am going to get it installed at bestbuy for $200, do i have to buy the XK01 kit or will bestbuy wire it from door to door for me?

RuMIROCZ

I chose not to go with an alarm, so I bought just the Viper 5501 Remote Start. I'm doing the install myself as I am very good with wiring. However I never did a remote start install before and am unfamiliar with what is needed. I was looking at getting the modules now for the install.

I've noticed you guys talking of all different modules. Basically I want the freedom to use the full potential of this unit. Can someone explain all the differences in modules available?

I've noticed talk about:
CANMAX400
CANMAX400 (dockable)
xLoader2
XK01
PKH34

Which module is the best at doing everything? I don't care about price right now just options. I believe by reading about this that the XK01 & PKH 34 are used together for our vehicles and the CANMAX400 is standalone? But then what is the difference with the dockable unit? Also which package will give me more options to control things?

Thanks. When I do the install I will add pictures to this thread. Thanks also for the good write up by JCJC2U!

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

yes i wired mine up to the aux inputs for the windows. aux 1 is to open the windows and sun roof. aux 2 is to close all windows and the sunroof. aux 3 is to pop the trunk. for shits and giggles we wired the horn to aux 4 lol. it will beep for one sec, which scares anyone who is by the car or looking in it.

nfnsquared

How'd you do that?

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

my installer did that part, all i know is i believe he wired it up to the door some how not sure which wire he used. i will find out and let you know.

nfnsquared

Thanks. I have the viper and the canmax400 dei. Doing the install tomorrow. I can add the aux stuff for window up/down later.

Thanks again.

nfnsquared

I'm adding a DEI shock sensor and a DEI tilt sensor to the aux circuit. Can I just wire these in parallel?

nfnsquared

OK, just check my logic here:

shock sensor plugs in unit aux sensor plug (4-pin). Tilt sensor orange goes to orange wire on H1 harness, blue wire taps to zone 2 blue wire on shock sensor harness (second blue wire on shock sensor circuit causes shock sensor to report on zone 4), red wire (constant +) taps to red wire on shock sensor harness. No need to diode isolate due to separate zones?

nfnsquared

Guys,

What did you do with the light flash polarity fuse that plugs into the bypass cavity on a Viper/Python/Clifford responder RS?

Or in other words, what is the light flash polarity for the TL?

Is that fuse/jumper even needed if I'm using D2D?

nfnsquared

^^^^Never mind. Not used, duh. (At least with a canmax400dei.) Sorry about that.

nfnsquared

OK, the 5-pin remote start input blue/white wire (pin 5) can be programmed as latched or pulsed (200mA negative output).

I'm using the clifford 50.7x with a canmax400dei which doesn't control the rear defog via the canbus, so I was/am going to add a 30A relay to the black/yellow wire in the diagram with the Clifford pin 5 programmed for a latched output.

I'm guessing from the diagram that the defog switch sends a pulsed input to the MICU which in turn sends a timed signal to the control block (or the MICU sends a signal to the control block which sends a timed current to the relay). Could I instead add a 7.5A relay to the LT BLU wire going from the switch to the MICU (this time the output from the Clifford pin 5 would be pulsed). This way the MICU/control block controls the time of the defog operation.

What do you think? Am I missing something?

nfnsquared

^^^^Better diagram below:

CarNewbie

I'm from Canada and we have an Acura model called the 1.7 EL (an Acura version of the 01'-05' Honda Civic), and I was wondering if this installation is similar enough to be used on one of those models.. I'm looking to save a couple hundred bucks and this would be so helpful if it would be possible to use this
Cheers!!

3zero3kid

Is it possible to hook this up to my 6mt with remote start?

akash4u

iTrader: (3)

Neat write-up. GREAT JOB

3zero3kid

Does anyone know if you can hook up the remote start to the 6mt's and have it function?

acura911

Did anyone see the new iphone SmartStart Module for Viper Remote Start?It's on sale today only at bestbuy.

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

it is possible to wire it up for a manual. if you remote start it in gear it will jump and hit whatever is in front or behind it. most places wont wire it up because of liability issues.