Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL
11-09-2010, 08:29 PM
#601
11-09-2010, 08:44 PM
#602
Team Owner
Thread Starter
11-09-2010, 09:48 PM
#603
I saw the exploded view, but couldn't spot all of the sensors...I think I found one, but wasn't sure if it was a bolt or sensor. Also, it didn't help show where stuff is in relation to other parts on the vehicle.
11-11-2010, 10:27 AM
#604
Intermediate
Amsoil Super shift Racing ATF is a very good choice too for a Type-F fluid (click here)
I have found a site in UK that sells it and has reasonable shipping costs, while Red Line seems to be not available in Europe at all and overseas shipping from US ranges between $200-$400.
11-11-2010, 04:01 PM
#606
Team Owner
Thread Starter
11-11-2010, 04:41 PM
#607
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
11-17-2010, 07:02 AM
#608
I am planning to do a 3x3 flush (with Redline Racing) and have all Z1 in the transission now. I want to get as much of the Z1 out as possible on the first drain.
Has anyone ever tried draining the pan and then running the engine for about 5-10 seconds to try to pump out another few quarts?
Has anyone ever tried draining the pan and then running the engine for about 5-10 seconds to try to pump out another few quarts?
11-17-2010, 09:51 AM
#609
Intermediate
People (me included) tried to disconnect the return hose and run it to the disposal pan, and pour in the new fluid as fast as you can while the engine is running to keep the tranny lubricated.
NVA-AV6 says that this can hurt the tranny seals because of high pressure differential though.
NVA-AV6 says that this can hurt the tranny seals because of high pressure differential though.
11-17-2010, 11:54 AM
#610
2004 Acura TL
Just came home from the dealer, they replaced my switches and I can't seem to tell if it made a huge difference because I completed my 3x3 with Mobile 1 2 months ago but before the switch replacement I felt the shrudder around 3rd when it was above 70f outside.
But I took it on the highway and was impressed on how fast the shifts were, so time will tell. But I'm glad I finally changed them. I will post pics of the older switches later for reference.
But I took it on the highway and was impressed on how fast the shifts were, so time will tell. But I'm glad I finally changed them. I will post pics of the older switches later for reference.
11-17-2010, 01:12 PM
#611
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I am planning to do a 3x3 flush (with Redline Racing) and have all Z1 in the transission now. I want to get as much of the Z1 out as possible on the first drain.
Has anyone ever tried draining the pan and then running the engine for about 5-10 seconds to try to pump out another few quarts?
Has anyone ever tried draining the pan and then running the engine for about 5-10 seconds to try to pump out another few quarts?
People (me included) tried to disconnect the return hose and run it to the disposal pan, and pour in the new fluid as fast as you can while the engine is running to keep the tranny lubricated.
NVA-AV6 says that this can hurt the tranny seals because of high pressure differential though.
NVA-AV6 says that this can hurt the tranny seals because of high pressure differential though.
11-18-2010, 11:01 PM
#612
2004 Acura TL
**Update** Well I'm pretty pissed that the shrudder is still there AFTER I completed my 3x3 and did the 3 n 4th switch change!!!
I might consider switching out the atf with redline or amsoil after all the good reviews Ive been reading, cause mobile 1 isnt getting the job done... Any thoughts?
I might consider switching out the atf with redline or amsoil after all the good reviews Ive been reading, cause mobile 1 isnt getting the job done... Any thoughts?
11-18-2010, 11:57 PM
#613
Team Owner
Thread Starter
**Update** Well I'm pretty pissed that the shrudder is still there AFTER I completed my 3x3 and did the 3 n 4th switch change!!!
I might consider switching out the atf with redline or amsoil after all the good reviews Ive been reading, cause mobile 1 isnt getting the job done... Any thoughts?
I might consider switching out the atf with redline or amsoil after all the good reviews Ive been reading, cause mobile 1 isnt getting the job done... Any thoughts?
Don't bother with the DexIII versions of each fluid (D4 and ATF). Go straight for the type F versions which are labeled as "racing".
There is more of a difference from a DexIII fluid to a racing fluid than there is from Z1 to DexIII.
There's a 90% chance the shudder will stop once you run the racing fluid if it's not too late already. Each time it shudders you're putting excessive wear on the clutches.
This is not the fault of the Mobil One fluid. Your clutches are worn from the years of Z1 and old switches. The friction material is probably burned so the holding power is reduced. You need a fluid like Type-F that has over 100% more static holding power to compensate for the wear and glazed clutch faces.
11-26-2010, 04:04 PM
#614
8th Gear
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doing this today, 06 TL with 95,500 miles. Just bought the car, and stutters between 3rd and 4th only from what I can tell. Gonna do a 3x2 of Redline racing Type f, and a 1x3 of Redline lightwieght type f. And do both switches, and the tranny filter. (I live in Seattle WA)
Wish me luck! oh... and the local dealer price matched but you have to bring in a copy of the shopping cart from delray!
Wish me luck! oh... and the local dealer price matched but you have to bring in a copy of the shopping cart from delray!
11-26-2010, 05:52 PM
#615
8th Gear
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Okkk so I got 9quarts of redline racing type f. They didn't have any lightwieght atf only gear oil? So I'm gonna run full type f, should I be ok with that being that I live in the northwest seattle area? Need help asap I wanna change it today
11-26-2010, 07:10 PM
#616
Were the part numbers the same for these switches? I have a 2007 Base TL AT and I want to do the switches. From what I am reading Tranny Filters couldnt be changed for 07 and 08 TL's?
11-26-2010, 07:27 PM
#617
I did just the Redline D4 ATF Drain and Fill. When I was doing the Drain I noticed with the Z1 it started leaking out a lil bit where the Tranny is connected to the engine.
Has anyone else seen this on there trannys?
I also started to notice the smell of ATF a lil bit not too much basicly when I turn on my heat. Or when i run the car hard I start smelling it a bit.
Has anyone else seen this on there trannys?
I also started to notice the smell of ATF a lil bit not too much basicly when I turn on my heat. Or when i run the car hard I start smelling it a bit.
11-27-2010, 08:32 AM
#618
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
I called my local acura dealer in orlando for the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches and the idiots didnt even know about them, and were unable to pull a part number..... any Idea of the part number on those for the type S model?
also is it just those two or is there a second 3rd gear switch as well...
also is it just those two or is there a second 3rd gear switch as well...
11-27-2010, 05:11 PM
#620
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
11-27-2010, 06:31 PM
#621
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
11-27-2010, 06:49 PM
#622
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update for me. did the 3x3 yesterday with redline type f, the 2 switches, aand full oil change with mobil one 5w30, and the intake resonator delete all in one go 
First of all resonator delete sounds good, def not too loud.
second, after the first part of the 1x3 and the switches i drove it around for 10 mins or so, my 3rd gear to fourth gear stutter was definately not gone. the tranny was shifting much smoother tho for sure!
on the 2nd part of the 3x3 i drove it again this time for about 15-20 mins. felt like it was getting a little bit better, id say halfway cured, but still stuttering a bit.
final 3x3 and drove it one last time and stuttering was barely noticable at all last night when i finished, still very slight though and quite disappointed to be honest after spending nearly 200 bucks for all fluid and switches and such.
today i drove the car around some more and knock on wood, could not get it to stutter for the life of me! so as of now i will announce that this HAS cured my stuttering for the meantime! Overall shifting in general is SOOOO much smoother and easier to drive! Im guessing it just takes a little driving for the fluid to get all worked in!?
First of all resonator delete sounds good, def not too loud.
second, after the first part of the 1x3 and the switches i drove it around for 10 mins or so, my 3rd gear to fourth gear stutter was definately not gone. the tranny was shifting much smoother tho for sure!
on the 2nd part of the 3x3 i drove it again this time for about 15-20 mins. felt like it was getting a little bit better, id say halfway cured, but still stuttering a bit.
final 3x3 and drove it one last time and stuttering was barely noticable at all last night when i finished, still very slight though and quite disappointed to be honest after spending nearly 200 bucks for all fluid and switches and such.
today i drove the car around some more and knock on wood, could not get it to stutter for the life of me! so as of now i will announce that this HAS cured my stuttering for the meantime! Overall shifting in general is SOOOO much smoother and easier to drive! Im guessing it just takes a little driving for the fluid to get all worked in!?
11-27-2010, 07:15 PM
#623
Team Owner
Thread Starter
update for me. did the 3x3 yesterday with redline type f, the 2 switches, aand full oil change with mobil one 5w30, and the intake resonator delete all in one go
First of all resonator delete sounds good, def not too loud.
second, after the first part of the 1x3 and the switches i drove it around for 10 mins or so, my 3rd gear to fourth gear stutter was definately not gone. the tranny was shifting much smoother tho for sure!
on the 2nd part of the 3x3 i drove it again this time for about 15-20 mins. felt like it was getting a little bit better, id say halfway cured, but still stuttering a bit.
final 3x3 and drove it one last time and stuttering was barely noticable at all last night when i finished, still very slight though and quite disappointed to be honest after spending nearly 200 bucks for all fluid and switches and such.
today i drove the car around some more and knock on wood, could not get it to stutter for the life of me! so as of now i will announce that this HAS cured my stuttering for the meantime! Overall shifting in general is SOOOO much smoother and easier to drive! Im guessing it just takes a little driving for the fluid to get all worked in!?
First of all resonator delete sounds good, def not too loud.
second, after the first part of the 1x3 and the switches i drove it around for 10 mins or so, my 3rd gear to fourth gear stutter was definately not gone. the tranny was shifting much smoother tho for sure!
on the 2nd part of the 3x3 i drove it again this time for about 15-20 mins. felt like it was getting a little bit better, id say halfway cured, but still stuttering a bit.
final 3x3 and drove it one last time and stuttering was barely noticable at all last night when i finished, still very slight though and quite disappointed to be honest after spending nearly 200 bucks for all fluid and switches and such.
today i drove the car around some more and knock on wood, could not get it to stutter for the life of me! so as of now i will announce that this HAS cured my stuttering for the meantime! Overall shifting in general is SOOOO much smoother and easier to drive! Im guessing it just takes a little driving for the fluid to get all worked in!?
But I do have to mention if it took that much to cure it, the damage has been done. I hope it lasts a long time but it sounds like your clutches were heavily damaged before.
11-28-2010, 01:17 PM
#624
8th Gear
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It does take a little while to get all of the FM off of the clutches. It should only get better from here.
But I do have to mention if it took that much to cure it, the damage has been done. I hope it lasts a long time but it sounds like your clutches were heavily damaged before.
But I do have to mention if it took that much to cure it, the damage has been done. I hope it lasts a long time but it sounds like your clutches were heavily damaged before.
11-29-2010, 11:02 AM
#625
I think this is interesting. For the most of latest Acura/Honda models, I found there are following 3 pairs of part numbers for these pressure switch parts. And the price is quite different also. See the following,
2010 RL and Honda Ody, Ridgeline, Pilot...
28600-R97-003 $8.40
28610-R97-003 $8.40
2010 TL
28600-R36-004 $26.29
28610-R36-004 $26.29
2009 MDX and many of pre-2009 models....
28600-RAY-003 (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $32.56
28610-RAY-003 (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $32.56
The pressure switches for 2010 RL are only 8.4 bucks, while the 2009 MDX the typical TI ones are at 32.56.
Ok! why in the world does that most expensive flag ship latest 2010 RL get 8.4 bucks one? Why? What is so good about TI parts? gold-plated or something?
As far as I examined the tranny diagram of 2010 RL and 2009 MDX, those look 99% same, yet, those pressure switches seem totally different at least part-price wise.
If the "origin" of tranny issue lies on this poorly des--, whops, deteriorating pressure switch part itself, shouldn't the pressure switch be fully redesigned with more robustness/longivity? why it gets cheaper? ok, cheaper does not always mean worse, but when it differs like 8.4 vs 32.5 bucks... welll... there got to be something better in 32.5 bucks one.... and worse in 8.4 bucks one.....
Then, does it mean the owners of later model year honda/acura which has cheaper version of pressure switch must replace these pressure switch at more higher frequency? confused
2010 RL and Honda Ody, Ridgeline, Pilot...
28600-R97-003 $8.40
28610-R97-003 $8.40
2010 TL
28600-R36-004 $26.29
28610-R36-004 $26.29
2009 MDX and many of pre-2009 models....
28600-RAY-003 (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $32.56
28610-RAY-003 (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $32.56
The pressure switches for 2010 RL are only 8.4 bucks, while the 2009 MDX the typical TI ones are at 32.56.
Ok! why in the world does that most expensive flag ship latest 2010 RL get 8.4 bucks one? Why? What is so good about TI parts? gold-plated or something?
As far as I examined the tranny diagram of 2010 RL and 2009 MDX, those look 99% same, yet, those pressure switches seem totally different at least part-price wise.
If the "origin" of tranny issue lies on this poorly des--, whops, deteriorating pressure switch part itself, shouldn't the pressure switch be fully redesigned with more robustness/longivity? why it gets cheaper? ok, cheaper does not always mean worse, but when it differs like 8.4 vs 32.5 bucks... welll... there got to be something better in 32.5 bucks one.... and worse in 8.4 bucks one.....
Then, does it mean the owners of later model year honda/acura which has cheaper version of pressure switch must replace these pressure switch at more higher frequency? confused
Has anyone substituted any of these switches in a TL?
11-30-2010, 02:40 PM
#626
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type s models different?
I want to do this for my tl-s but kinda confused looked up the parts and for the tl-s it says we need 2 #12's and 1 #13 and model numbers are a little diff. It also seems like the switches are in different locations than a reg TL. Has anyone done this on a type s and can you explain if the install is different. thanks
heres the link so you guys can see the diagram.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
heres the link so you guys can see the diagram.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
11-30-2010, 10:33 PM
#628
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Well to start off....thanks a lot "I Hate Cars" for starting this thread.
After doing a little research about possible tranny failure for my 2003 MDX, I found this thread.
I was getting tranny jerks which led to D5 flashing every second day and my ATF temp light going on.
Went to the stealer ship and it cost me 100$ for them to tell me that they are not sure what it could be. They wanted me to leave the truck there for further testing but it would probably need a new tranny.
Guess what! first I did a 3 x 3 tranny flush with OEM ATF from Acura and a week latter changed 3rd and 4th gear sensors and ATF temp sensor I ordered from Delray Acura (cheapest prices I found).
For those planning to change the temp sensor, beware the sensor broke and took a few hours to get it out.
Long story short, it feels like I have a brand new truck. I was so excited that I changed the motor oil and filter including the plugs and air filter.
It was worth every penny. My wife won't let me drive the truck anymore.
It's been a week and so far no issues, no D5 flashing, no tranny temp light.
Thanks to all who participated to this thread.......
After doing a little research about possible tranny failure for my 2003 MDX, I found this thread.
I was getting tranny jerks which led to D5 flashing every second day and my ATF temp light going on.
Went to the stealer ship and it cost me 100$ for them to tell me that they are not sure what it could be. They wanted me to leave the truck there for further testing but it would probably need a new tranny.
Guess what! first I did a 3 x 3 tranny flush with OEM ATF from Acura and a week latter changed 3rd and 4th gear sensors and ATF temp sensor I ordered from Delray Acura (cheapest prices I found).
For those planning to change the temp sensor, beware the sensor broke and took a few hours to get it out.
Long story short, it feels like I have a brand new truck. I was so excited that I changed the motor oil and filter including the plugs and air filter.
It was worth every penny. My wife won't let me drive the truck anymore.
It's been a week and so far no issues, no D5 flashing, no tranny temp light.
Thanks to all who participated to this thread.......
12-01-2010, 01:10 AM
#629
Team Owner
Thread Starter
That's a very good find. I would think that as long as the on/off was triggered at the same psi, they would work. One member tested the old with the new switches and the psi they were triggerd at. I wonder if that can be done again...
12-01-2010, 04:54 AM
#630
Intermediate
I want to do this for my tl-s but kinda confused looked up the parts and for the tl-s it says we need 2 #12's and 1 #13 and model numbers are a little diff. It also seems like the switches are in different locations than a reg TL. Has anyone done this on a type s and can you explain if the install is different. thanks
heres the link so you guys can see the diagram.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
heres the link so you guys can see the diagram.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
BASE http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
TL-S http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
RL http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
see post 16 and up in this thread, the PSI spec of the switches is not there (at least I didnt find it)
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/
12-01-2010, 06:52 AM
#631
BANNED
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if anyone didn't feel like searching thru all the pages, here's a list of what you'll need for the 07-08 base and type-s.
28600-RKE-004 (2)
28610-RKE-004 (1)
90471-PW7-A00 (3)
28600-RKE-004 (2)
28610-RKE-004 (1)
90471-PW7-A00 (3)
12-02-2010, 12:19 PM
#632
Instructor
So this is a dumb question but...
Is replacing these 3rd and 4th pressure sensor switches recommended for both manual and automatic transmissions? If yes, how often should it be done?
Is replacing these 3rd and 4th pressure sensor switches recommended for both manual and automatic transmissions? If yes, how often should it be done?
12-02-2010, 12:52 PM
#633
Team Owner
Thread Starter
12-02-2010, 09:39 PM
#635
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IHC,
this is great info that you give out on this subject and I think all of us that face this problem thank you.
On another note...where do I get the 3rd and 4th pressure switches?
Local Acura Dealer? Loca Honda Dealer?
this is great info that you give out on this subject and I think all of us that face this problem thank you.
On another note...where do I get the 3rd and 4th pressure switches?
Local Acura Dealer? Loca Honda Dealer?
12-05-2010, 10:02 AM
#637
So if Z1 is 'bad' for the transmission, which oil to use in the SH AWD rear diff?
Sorry to ask this here, but this seems the most recent/active series post. I really did a search on TL SH rear diff but did not find any posts.
Is the new DPSF recommended? or use D4 Redline in the rear diff? Thanks.
Sorry to ask this here, but this seems the most recent/active series post. I really did a search on TL SH rear diff but did not find any posts.
Is the new DPSF recommended? or use D4 Redline in the rear diff? Thanks.
Last edited by dcmodels; 12-05-2010 at 10:04 AM.
12-05-2010, 11:41 AM
#638
Team Owner
Thread Starter
So if Z1 is 'bad' for the transmission, which oil to use in the SH AWD rear diff?
Sorry to ask this here, but this seems the most recent/active series post. I really did a search on TL SH rear diff but did not find any posts.
Is the new DPSF recommended? or use D4 Redline in the rear diff? Thanks.
Sorry to ask this here, but this seems the most recent/active series post. I really did a search on TL SH rear diff but did not find any posts.
Is the new DPSF recommended? or use D4 Redline in the rear diff? Thanks.
As a lubricant it does not seem any worse than any other dino oil at lubricating. I'm sure you could improve on it with a good synthetic but it's probably unnecessary. Redline D4 and Amsoil "ATF" are somewhat similar fluids. They do have slightly less FM. Not a bad thing but if the diff uses a clutch pack for posi action (I have no idea if it does) there's a chance you can run into clutch chatter.
Chrysler ATF+4 fluid is very similar frictionally so if you can find a synthetic version of that it should work well.
12-17-2010, 04:40 PM
#639
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12-17-2010, 04:41 PM
#640
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Auto....Manual tranny's dont use pressure switches....