Acceleration Failure while Driving
05-11-2009, 07:51 PM
#1
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Acceleration Failure while Driving
Plese Help!!!
I have an 04 TL with 100k plus miles on it, and all of a sudden today, my engine light came on, and then maybe 15 miles later, while driving, my malfunction light came on, with VSA lights turning on as well, and I lost all acceleration in the car. When I pressed the pedal down to the floor, My RPM's didn't even rev up, and my car would barely move at all from a stand still. I had to pull over and shut off the car, and restart it. It was ok for maybe 10 minutes, and the problem reoccured. Does anyone know what this could possibly be?
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
I have an 04 TL with 100k plus miles on it, and all of a sudden today, my engine light came on, and then maybe 15 miles later, while driving, my malfunction light came on, with VSA lights turning on as well, and I lost all acceleration in the car. When I pressed the pedal down to the floor, My RPM's didn't even rev up, and my car would barely move at all from a stand still. I had to pull over and shut off the car, and restart it. It was ok for maybe 10 minutes, and the problem reoccured. Does anyone know what this could possibly be?
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
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Dee D (08-19-2021)
05-11-2009, 09:12 PM
#2
SSM Sport Shifting
Man I had the same problem with a 98 Accord. I would drive it then all of the
sudden it would basically die on me. I would press on the gas pedal & nothing.
I would have to pull over & do exactly what you did to make it stop. At least
for a while. It ended up being a relay to my starter that was right under my dash
on the driver side. Cost for the new relay was $7.46 from dealership & I put it in
myself. This was after I already bought a new CPU & other parts. (like $800.00 worth)
It can be anything bro. Were you doing anything to your engine prior to driving
it? It can be a plug that is not in all the way. All I know is usually with Acura/Honda
cars the electronics go bad before the parts do. Thats been in my cases.
sudden it would basically die on me. I would press on the gas pedal & nothing.
I would have to pull over & do exactly what you did to make it stop. At least
for a while. It ended up being a relay to my starter that was right under my dash
on the driver side. Cost for the new relay was $7.46 from dealership & I put it in
myself. This was after I already bought a new CPU & other parts. (like $800.00 worth)
It can be anything bro. Were you doing anything to your engine prior to driving
it? It can be a plug that is not in all the way. All I know is usually with Acura/Honda
cars the electronics go bad before the parts do. Thats been in my cases.
05-11-2009, 09:33 PM
#3
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Man I had the same problem with a 98 Accord. I would drive it then all of the
sudden it would basically die on me. I would press on the gas pedal & nothing.
I would have to pull over & do exactly what you did to make it stop. At least
for a while. It ended up being a relay to my starter that was right under my dash
on the driver side. Cost for the new relay was $7.46 from dealership & I put it in
myself. This was after I already bought a new CPU & other parts. (like $800.00 worth)
It can be anything bro. Were you doing anything to your engine prior to driving
it? It can be a plug that is not in all the way. All I know is usually with Acura/Honda
cars the electronics go bad before the parts do. Thats been in my cases.
sudden it would basically die on me. I would press on the gas pedal & nothing.
I would have to pull over & do exactly what you did to make it stop. At least
for a while. It ended up being a relay to my starter that was right under my dash
on the driver side. Cost for the new relay was $7.46 from dealership & I put it in
myself. This was after I already bought a new CPU & other parts. (like $800.00 worth)
It can be anything bro. Were you doing anything to your engine prior to driving
it? It can be a plug that is not in all the way. All I know is usually with Acura/Honda
cars the electronics go bad before the parts do. Thats been in my cases.
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Dee D (08-19-2021)
05-11-2009, 09:40 PM
#4
2009 g37s 6mt
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Actually I was doing no engine work to the car what so ever, it just happened out of nowhere, and I'm not sure what the problem could be. Do you suggest taking it to the dealership, I have a big fear they are going to have fun rallying up the bill to fix this. All i know is that, I was simply driving, then everything fails, I mean power steering worked and the car was running just fine; however there was no acceleration when I pressed the pedal at all.
05-11-2009, 10:01 PM
#5
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
APP sensor.. get it replaced asap. Not a biggie.
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05-12-2009, 08:26 PM
#9
10th Gear
Thread Starter
I went and got the code today, P2138, I believe is what it was. Pep Boys told me it's my TPS sensor, and they didn't have it in stock. I went to Acura for it, they had it part number 37971-RBB-003. They wanted 279.00 for it. Does this sound right to you guys? Is the APP sensor the same as the TPS? Please advise guys, and appreciate the advice thus far.
05-12-2009, 09:46 PM
#10
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I went and got the code today, P2138, I believe is what it was. Pep Boys told me it's my TPS sensor, and they didn't have it in stock. I went to Acura for it, they had it part number 37971-RBB-003. They wanted 279.00 for it. Does this sound right to you guys? Is the APP sensor the same as the TPS? Please advise guys, and appreciate the advice thus far.
Anyways that is the correct P/N, but your dealership parts department are real assholes to charge that type of markup. Go to acuraoemparts.com and paste in the P/N in the search field.
It's $119 and they list the retail price which is what your dealership should be selling it for as $159. This is probably the same sensor used for Accords. Call your dealership, and without cussing them out, explain how it's $119 from Delray Acura (acuraoemparts) and the retail is $159.. go up the chain and I'm sure someone will sell it to you at wholesale price. If not, call local Honda dealerships or check with autopart stores, but definitely don't pay $200+ for a cheap APP sensor.
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Alvin (10-10-2021)
05-13-2009, 07:21 AM
#11
10th Gear
Thread Starter
They meant the APP sensor. Sometimes they use the sensor acronyms interchangeably.
Anyways that is the correct P/N, but your dealership parts department are real assholes to charge that type of markup. Go to acuraoemparts.com and paste in the P/N in the search field.
It's $119 and they list the retail price which is what your dealership should be selling it for as $159. This is probably the same sensor used for Accords. Call your dealership, and without cussing them out, explain how it's $119 from Delray Acura (acuraoemparts) and the retail is $159.. go up the chain and I'm sure someone will sell it to you at wholesale price. If not, call local Honda dealerships or check with autopart stores, but definitely don't pay $200+ for a cheap APP sensor.
Anyways that is the correct P/N, but your dealership parts department are real assholes to charge that type of markup. Go to acuraoemparts.com and paste in the P/N in the search field.
It's $119 and they list the retail price which is what your dealership should be selling it for as $159. This is probably the same sensor used for Accords. Call your dealership, and without cussing them out, explain how it's $119 from Delray Acura (acuraoemparts) and the retail is $159.. go up the chain and I'm sure someone will sell it to you at wholesale price. If not, call local Honda dealerships or check with autopart stores, but definitely don't pay $200+ for a cheap APP sensor.
05-13-2009, 10:12 AM
#12
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Ask and ye shall receive... enjoy:
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schoppworld (05-21-2016)
05-14-2009, 08:13 AM
#14
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Wow guys, you guys are the best, I appreciate it, I can't believe they wanted to charge me two hours labor to do this simple install. I don't know how the corporate office allows them to operate under such fallacies. Once again, I want to thank all of you guys for helping me thus far, and will put up a final post of how everything went when I am done. Also will I need to do anything post installation as far as resetting codes or anything along that nature? Once again, I want to thank you guys in advance for all of your help.
On a side note, I have a head light where the seal has cracked, and condensation is forming up within the headlight, and need help on fixing that, the HID has burned out, and am using the daytime running light to keep me from getting pulled over. But if you guys have any pointers on that, it would be greatly appreciated.
05-14-2009, 11:15 AM
#15
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Headlight condensation.. probably need a new lamp. Look up thread on how to clear headlights.. Basically take the headlight out and put it in a preheated oven for 20 mins at 200F. Separate the housing and reseal.. or just seal up the leaks on the exterior if you know where the separation is but make sure you try get all moisture out first.
You could also send'em to JnC and he'll clear them for you.. not too bad of a price for quality work.. and as far as reset cycle.. I don't think you have to do anything in particular but I could be wrong. PM acuratech239 or 240sx acura tech and they'll know for sure.
You could also send'em to JnC and he'll clear them for you.. not too bad of a price for quality work.. and as far as reset cycle.. I don't think you have to do anything in particular but I could be wrong. PM acuratech239 or 240sx acura tech and they'll know for sure.
08-26-2009, 07:04 PM
#17
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I love ACURAZINE.
My car has been experiencing the same symptoms has the OP. I pulled the code today to doublecheck, and it's the P2318. I then go to my local Acura dealer and they wanted $180 for the APP, I get them to pricematch acuraoemparts to $120.
Thanks to acurazine, I can do-it-myself and I saved $60. Hopefully the replacement will be a breeze.
My car has been experiencing the same symptoms has the OP. I pulled the code today to doublecheck, and it's the P2318. I then go to my local Acura dealer and they wanted $180 for the APP, I get them to pricematch acuraoemparts to $120.
Thanks to acurazine, I can do-it-myself and I saved $60. Hopefully the replacement will be a breeze.
08-27-2009, 01:06 AM
#20
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
08-27-2009, 01:15 AM
#22
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
There's actually a facebook acct for it too! lol..
09-03-2009, 09:59 PM
#25
Ok; I think I have solved my problem. I installed a new IAT sensor today. My car is better! The smooth power transition is back.
I'm happy, but kind of pissed as well $133. I will run this for a while to be sure; atleast till it warms up again. If this is the fix for sure, I will put the sensor up in the BM.
I'm happy, but kind of pissed as well $133. I will run this for a while to be sure; atleast till it warms up again. If this is the fix for sure, I will put the sensor up in the BM.
09-11-2009, 06:21 AM
#26
All I can say is WOW!!!!
Installed the APP sensor a couple of days ago. My car is pulling like I just added an aftermarket j-pipe or something! I have never spun my wheels in third gear before; this is not an exaggeration. Ok so the road was wet after the rain, but honestly, never done that before. I even have great passing power in 6th gear on the highway from 60 mph like I dropped gears. No hesitation what-so-ever!
I can't believe this does not throw a cel or something. My car is running stronger than ever before; really complimenting the mods. If you have high miles, this is a must!
I can't believe this does not throw a cel or something. My car is running stronger than ever before; really complimenting the mods. If you have high miles, this is a must!
09-11-2009, 08:54 AM
#27
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My 04 TSX just had a similar malfunction. Dealer said code P2138 and they simply reset the system. Car seems to be running great. They wouldn't replace it since they said their "diagnostic flowchart" told them to reset it and that should fix the problem.
09-15-2009, 05:05 PM
#29
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I'm having the same issue and getting the P2138 error code which points to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but everyone keeps saying change the APP Sensor. Are the two the same? If not, why is the error code saying one thing when it should say another? I just want to make sure I'm changing the right thing before I go and spend $120 on a part I don't need.
Also, when I went to the dealership and asked how much a TPS costs they told me they don't sell just the sensor. They wanted to sell me the whole throttle body assembly for like $350...
Also, when I went to the dealership and asked how much a TPS costs they told me they don't sell just the sensor. They wanted to sell me the whole throttle body assembly for like $350...
09-15-2009, 05:15 PM
#30
I went and got the code today, P2138, I believe is what it was. Pep Boys told me it's my TPS sensor, and they didn't have it in stock. I went to Acura for it, they had it part number 37971-RBB-003. They wanted 279.00 for it. Does this sound right to you guys? Is the APP sensor the same as the TPS? Please advise guys, and appreciate the advice thus far.
I'm having the same issue and getting the P2138 error code which points to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but everyone keeps saying change the APP Sensor. Are the two the same? If not, why is the error code saying one thing when it should say another? I just want to make sure I'm changing the right thing before I go and spend $120 on a part I don't need.
Also, when I went to the dealership and asked how much a TPS costs they told me they don't sell just the sensor. They wanted to sell me the whole throttle body assembly for like $350...
Also, when I went to the dealership and asked how much a TPS costs they told me they don't sell just the sensor. They wanted to sell me the whole throttle body assembly for like $350...
02-18-2010, 07:55 PM
#34
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My car started to have problems, and the sympton sounds just like yours. I pulled the codes, but I got two different codes P2227 and p1128
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
02-19-2010, 01:56 AM
#35
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My car started to have problems, and the sympton sounds just like yours. I pulled the codes, but I got two different codes P2227 and p1128
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
02-19-2010, 06:46 AM
#36
Acura Cert MASTER TECH
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My car started to have problems, and the sympton sounds just like yours. I pulled the codes, but I got two different codes P2227 and p1128
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
Should I go ahead and try to replace the APP sensor and hope this fixes my problem? I've already changed the MAF sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/vsa-check-engine-lights-763705/
You should probably check it out. And I'm assuming you mean you replaced your MAP sensor and not MAF sensor? Since 3Gs don't have a MAF.
Also, I disagree with the above post to just go ahead and replace the APP sensor. You have zero codes for this, and trust me, when they go bad, they throw codes. I have never seen one go bad that didn't throw a code. Also, in my other post I linked, you'll see the common areas between the MAP and BARO sensor. Bottom line, you need to start to some diag, because needless sensor replacement is probably not going to get you very far.
Check that other post and reply in that thread when you have made some progress
02-19-2010, 09:21 AM
#37
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
03-19-2010, 09:37 PM
#38
Instructor
Just tonight, while coming home I think I had this same issue on my 04 (6MT w/118000). While on the interstate, something felt off (slight jerk while accel) and then as I got closer to my house I just out of nowhere got the cel, both vsa lights and lost 90% of my power. Couldn't rev past 2k, would get a big jerk when i took my foot off the gas and pretty much crawled home. I turn the car off and then back on and that seemed to work for now (still have CEL though).
Gonna have autozone diagnose the CEL and will post back tomorrow.
PS. Would get the VSA light every now and then before so think it was meant to be a warning that i pretty much ignored.
Gonna have autozone diagnose the CEL and will post back tomorrow.
PS. Would get the VSA light every now and then before so think it was meant to be a warning that i pretty much ignored.
03-19-2010, 10:03 PM
#39
Yeah, another APP sensor failure, the sensor is actually 2 TPS sensors put together and it cross checks both and if they don't match the car goes into limp mode.
This is actually what is failing on the run-away toyotas, they only have one sensor on thiers so when it screws up it does not have a back-up to check against.
This is actually what is failing on the run-away toyotas, they only have one sensor on thiers so when it screws up it does not have a back-up to check against.
03-22-2010, 05:27 PM
#40
9.5+10.5 22m=Hella Flush
I had the same thing happened to my TL (2004 auto w/90,000 kms) the other day. All of a sudden I couldn't excellerate and couldn't past 2000rmp. VSA and Check Engine light came on. Then I shut the engine and turned it back on and everything went back to normal except the Check Engine light stayed on. Then after driving it for 30mins, the Engine light turned off. Currently everything is back to normal. I am wondering if I should change up the APP sensor now or wait a bit.