2005 Air Conditioning compressor
06-02-2009, 09:31 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
2005 Air Conditioning compressor
Well I took my car into David Mcdavid Acura in Plano, TX (Dallas County) and they say my air conditioning is working. But actually, it is not when the temp is 90+. I told them that the compressor does not want to come on when its too hot under the hood. And it usually happens in slow moving traffic on hotter days. The more humid and hot it is, the more likely the compressor wont come on. for example, I pulled into a sporting goods store after work last week and the temp was like 92 and for a few minutes the gauge actually read 97. And traffic was moving slow and the air was blowing hard and very warm and I was really MAD about that. So I timed the compressor. I can feel it engauge because the engine runs differently when the comrepssor is on. So, the compressor came on and off 3 TIMES IN 15 SECONDS!! More specifically, the comrpessor engauged and then IMMEDIATELY disenguaged!! So the total time "on" was like .5 seconds. Or 1/2 a second. So in other words, conditions were right for it to come on, but it said NOPE! not going to do it! and it shut off. And it did that 3 times in 15 seconds.. Like it was trying to come on but it wouldnt. But when i got on the highway, and cooled down the engine compartment, the compressor came on and the car started to cool off. So, I dont think its a refrigerant problem. I think its electrical. And the guys and David McDavid called me back in 3 hours and said, It;s Working.. My gosh. And their garage is A/C cooled. So tell me how can they diagnose that? The guy at the counter just put a few notes on the ticket and shoved the car through the line. I'm so tired of people (mechanics) not wanting to do THEIR JOB and diagnose something.. Why do they think I am willing to pay them?
TIME FOR A LEXUS IS 350!
TIME FOR A LEXUS IS 350!
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-02-2009 at 09:34 PM.
06-02-2009, 09:36 PM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
By the way, My loaner car is a Toyota YARIS. and that thing cools better than my TL!!!!
What a JOKE! I wish I could put my hands around this guys neck and tell him to do his job. But that would be illegal.
What a JOKE! I wish I could put my hands around this guys neck and tell him to do his job. But that would be illegal.
06-02-2009, 11:01 PM
#3
it's me, Alan Rickman.
*shrug*
My 04 cools like a champ; granted I have not messed with the system at all. You're not just hearing the fan cycle are you ?
Usually dealers are up for doing work and selling you parts
My 04 cools like a champ; granted I have not messed with the system at all. You're not just hearing the fan cycle are you ?
Usually dealers are up for doing work and selling you parts
06-03-2009, 03:52 AM
#5
the service writers are not techs- and techs dont relay info very well
techs DO try to reproduce a problem but cant always--in the amount of time they have
Of course the ac works worse sitting in traffic and engine hot-
it depends on airflow thru its own ~radiator~ thats in front of the coolant radiator
Thats why the right side fan comes on with AC- to pull air thru it!
It can be a r-134 low level issue, do you run the ac in the winter- defrost mode will use it- that keeps the seals conditioned otherwise a slight loss of pressure will blow warm air and cause the compressor to attempt to cycle but wont stay on
Its possible they did a basic ac performance test then had to keep it overnight to investigate further
Some problems take longer to find
Or there may be a temp sensor issue
Anything blocking the interior temp sensors?
techs DO try to reproduce a problem but cant always--in the amount of time they have
Of course the ac works worse sitting in traffic and engine hot-
it depends on airflow thru its own ~radiator~ thats in front of the coolant radiator
Thats why the right side fan comes on with AC- to pull air thru it!
It can be a r-134 low level issue, do you run the ac in the winter- defrost mode will use it- that keeps the seals conditioned otherwise a slight loss of pressure will blow warm air and cause the compressor to attempt to cycle but wont stay on
Its possible they did a basic ac performance test then had to keep it overnight to investigate further
Some problems take longer to find
Or there may be a temp sensor issue
Anything blocking the interior temp sensors?
06-03-2009, 05:49 AM
#6
Take a stick thermometer and place it in the center vent and write down the temps under the various driving conditions. This way it will be documented that the system isn't working properly.
Not certain about the TL, but on some vehicles, if the engine coolant temp rises to a certain point, the A/C will shut down to help the engine cool. When the coolant temp drops to a safe level, the A/C will resume operation.
Not certain about the TL, but on some vehicles, if the engine coolant temp rises to a certain point, the A/C will shut down to help the engine cool. When the coolant temp drops to a safe level, the A/C will resume operation.
06-03-2009, 09:11 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
I already know the a/c doesn't typically blow as cold when i'm sitting in traffic, but blowing warm and the compressor trying to engauge but not able to, is screwed up. Man you sound like your tellign me nothing is wrong with my car. The r134a is not low. The service writer told me at noon, they were going to perform a performance check on it, and they called me at 4:45 and said its fine. Obviously they didnt experience the compressor not enguaging. but they did not ask to keep the car overnight. So i dont know why you say a performance check should be done overnight. besides, if they check it in the morning, there won't be any problem. Thats not what I said! It has to be hot. I dont understand why people cant understand. I don't know if there is a temperture sensor problem. I dont know where its at. I dont know if anything is blocking it. Where is it? I would say no there is nothing blocking it. My car is clean and factory equipment.
Where are the relay's and switches under the hood that operate the compressor? I think some switch under the hood is getting too hot and malfunctioning under hi temp condition.
David Mcdavid is charging me $110 just to look at the a/c. Do you think I would take my car in to a dealership, and leave it with them, and be without my car, stuck in a yaris, and be out 110 dollars if there wasn't anything wrong? No, for one thing I hate dealers and I hate spending money like that.
I'm seriously thinking about selling this car. I am so tired of junk. This problem reminds me of the problem I had with my brake light switch. If you do a search on Acurazine, you will see where some people have experienced brake lights that were not illuminating at the proper intensity. They weren't bright enough. And the Dealer had no idea about what I was talking about. if the lights come on, then the must be ok. But that's not true. The brake light switch was only working partially. Some of the time the brake lights would illuminate with full intensity.
I agree with MR1. i may have to go to a specialist. Who would have thought the dealer wouldn't have the skilled people?
And to timmahh, yes I agree people do try to sell you extra parts, but the dealers #1 objective is not to fix, but to push cars through. And many onyl want the easy money. They dont want to work hard and diagnose. They'd rather take my $110 "diagnostic fee" and push me out. And I have not paid attention to the fans, generally I cannot hear the fans from inside my car unless my windows are down.
Turbonut: If my engine coolant was low, wouldn't my engine run a bit hotter?
Where are the relay's and switches under the hood that operate the compressor? I think some switch under the hood is getting too hot and malfunctioning under hi temp condition.
David Mcdavid is charging me $110 just to look at the a/c. Do you think I would take my car in to a dealership, and leave it with them, and be without my car, stuck in a yaris, and be out 110 dollars if there wasn't anything wrong? No, for one thing I hate dealers and I hate spending money like that.
I'm seriously thinking about selling this car. I am so tired of junk. This problem reminds me of the problem I had with my brake light switch. If you do a search on Acurazine, you will see where some people have experienced brake lights that were not illuminating at the proper intensity. They weren't bright enough. And the Dealer had no idea about what I was talking about. if the lights come on, then the must be ok. But that's not true. The brake light switch was only working partially. Some of the time the brake lights would illuminate with full intensity.
I agree with MR1. i may have to go to a specialist. Who would have thought the dealer wouldn't have the skilled people?
And to timmahh, yes I agree people do try to sell you extra parts, but the dealers #1 objective is not to fix, but to push cars through. And many onyl want the easy money. They dont want to work hard and diagnose. They'd rather take my $110 "diagnostic fee" and push me out. And I have not paid attention to the fans, generally I cannot hear the fans from inside my car unless my windows are down.
Turbonut: If my engine coolant was low, wouldn't my engine run a bit hotter?
Trending Topics
06-03-2009, 01:10 PM
#9
That is an indicator that you are low in R134. Before dumping some in, you will need to find the source of the leak.
06-03-2009, 01:21 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, I have good and bad news. First of all RC5ryder, my refrigerant is not low. I just got back from Acura and the a/c is running fine for now. They said the compressor has the proper amount of r134a in it. but I already knew that anyway. So the good news is, they did not charge me the $110 diagnostic charge and they gave me a few schematics and they indicated a COIL that turns on and off the compressor and also there is an under hood relay in the fuse box for the a/c. So either one of these components may be my problem. So, I am happy we made some progress. And on the way back to work, the temp is 80 degrees, and the car was an ice bucket. So, like I said, when the under hood temperature is not too hot, the a/c works fine. But these switches (coil and relays) may be the problem. So progress!
06-03-2009, 01:51 PM
#11
Safety Car
wow thats really really odd....those dont go bad too often but then again u never know if its a bad batch or not. but if u need specific honda relays then order those but if its basic any autopart store should have good ones....namely bosch.
06-03-2009, 04:06 PM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
There aren't any codes. I am 99% sure. I would have seen an SES or check engine light come on especially when I am fully alert when the air blows warm. Anyways, I am going to address the relays and coil. I can scan a few pics of what I have if anyone is interested.
06-03-2009, 06:56 PM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
ya "hvac area". clear as mud.
06-03-2009, 07:03 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
ok well, go take a picture of the area and post some pics. Heating is not the problem I am having anyway.
06-04-2009, 08:42 AM
#19
Self test:
Ignition on
Press and hold the off button
While holding the off button, press the recirculation button five times within 10 seconds. Release the off button and the self diagnostic will begin.
Note: The blower motor can be run at any speed regardless of what the panel is displaying.
If there is any problem with the system, the temperature indicator will light up in sgments corresponding to the error on each side of the display. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all segments lit) and the error code segment.
Need the FSM to determine the segment values if there are any.
If there are no problems detected, the segments will not illuminate.
Turn off ignition to cancel.
Ignition on
Press and hold the off button
While holding the off button, press the recirculation button five times within 10 seconds. Release the off button and the self diagnostic will begin.
Note: The blower motor can be run at any speed regardless of what the panel is displaying.
If there is any problem with the system, the temperature indicator will light up in sgments corresponding to the error on each side of the display. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all segments lit) and the error code segment.
Need the FSM to determine the segment values if there are any.
If there are no problems detected, the segments will not illuminate.
Turn off ignition to cancel.
06-04-2009, 09:21 AM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
sounds good. But what is a FSM? You mentioned segment values. Wouldn't the values be represented plainly by the temperature indicator? Like a 4 would be 4. and a 1 would be 1. ? If I understand you correctly, the 7-segment display has a separate value for each segment? ie. the number 8 has all segments illuminated. - I may have to wait until it gets hot outside when the problem usually appears, and then run the diagnostic, unless of course there is a memory in it that would retain any error codes. In that case, the error code should be in there now.
06-04-2009, 05:03 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
I tried that and basically it changed from LO which was my temperature setting) to HI for about 10 seconds then went back to my normal temp setting. So, it didnt do anything. I guess that means its clear. It did not flash 88
06-26-2009, 06:48 PM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
well.. my a/c appears to be fixed. Problem: high side was way too high. At resting it was at 350psi. And when it would get hot outside, the system would try to engauge the compressor but the pressure switch would shut it down as it tried to start.
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-26-2009 at 06:51 PM.
06-29-2009, 04:37 PM
#25
Love My Acura!
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murfreesboro, TN (Nashville area)
Age: 69
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well.. my a/c appears to be fixed. Problem: high side was way too high. At resting it was at 350psi. And when it would get hot outside, the system would try to engauge the compressor but the pressure switch would shut it down as it tried to start.
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
BTW, FSM = Factory Service Manual
Robert
06-29-2009, 05:09 PM
#26
05/5AT/Navi/ABP/Quartz
well.. my a/c appears to be fixed. Problem: high side was way too high. At resting it was at 350psi. And when it would get hot outside, the system would try to engauge the compressor but the pressure switch would shut it down as it tried to start.
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
I also learned through this that it was causing my compressor to cycle much much too often even when it would work "decently", and that was when the temperature was under 90 degrees. So when it was slightly cooler outside, the compressor would run but it hit the max pressure very often and cause it to cycle more often. But again, when the temperature outside was too hot, like over 90 and if I idled to long without airflow under the car, the compressor basically would not even come on.
Thanks for everyone's input. =)
Glad it is fixed. How did you figure out what the problem was and what was the fix?
06-29-2009, 06:01 PM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Trek: I don't know how it got too high, but it has been messed up ever since I bought the car last year. I checked the low side pressure and it was within the normal range. So, I wonder since the high side is proportional to the low side, does that mean the high side drains into the low side when you turn off the car? Are they connected? The compressor does lose pressure and the regain pressure everytime you turn off the car. Thats why it takes a while to build pressure and get cold. So are the low and high side connected? I don't know how it works but if they are connected then why didn't I detect it being too high on the low side?
The only other senario I can think of is if the low and high side are connected to each other, and therefore the high side is in some way proportional to the low side, then if the high side was way too high and the low side normal, then appearently the high side does not drain back to the low side. So, i'm wondering where the refrigerant goes when the system is off. So maybe its possible that someone filled the low side with too much and then tried to let it out, but maybe it didnt go back out of the high side.. I dont know.
*Some things tell me the high and low side are connected and some things indicate they are not connected.*
MR1: I did not figure out what was wrong. The dealer did. However, they said they checked the pressure the first time it was in the shop, but I guess they lied. Because the system has been screwed up since I bought the car. Seriously, the first time I was at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX, they said they didn't know what was wrong with it and they could not get it to act up, but "the system is properly charged". So when I took it back in again to them a month later, they were able to see how the damn thing was cycling off immediately when it tried to engage.. So I suspect it was then why they Really decided to inspect it and they found that the high side was too high. And yes I hate being lied to like they apparently did the first time. At least either they lied to me or Misread the high side pressure. I think they could not misread the pressure if the gauge was plugged into the system. So I have no choice but to think they did not do their job properly the first time. But that is people for you. I just drove 15 miles across Dallas to get some 2500 grit wetordry sand paper and they only had it in the 50 sheet pack and I asked the lady if at noon if she had any and she said yes but failed to tell me I gotta buy the industrial size. I really wanted to choke the living daylights out of her. And she just laughed it off. "OOPS!" she said. But that is how people address their work. Very lax. I nearly have to figure everything out for myself and ask very specific questions in order to get an accurate response out of people. Otherwise its a crap shoot as to what you will get. Like I went into Wendy's a few days ago and got my usual. Doublestack with no catsup or cheese. And they also say, "why do you come in her so much?" they know me very well. Hell the guy that takes my order in the drive through practically hits on my every time I am there. So, anyway, I told him the same thing every day.. NO CATSUP and NO CHEESE.. And he was just bouncing off the walls one day because he was just to happy and didn’t really feel like being at work, and just ran my order through and didn’t specify what I had said. And sure enough I got and greasy cheesy hamburer that tasted like french fry (w/ kethup on it). OOPS!
The only other senario I can think of is if the low and high side are connected to each other, and therefore the high side is in some way proportional to the low side, then if the high side was way too high and the low side normal, then appearently the high side does not drain back to the low side. So, i'm wondering where the refrigerant goes when the system is off. So maybe its possible that someone filled the low side with too much and then tried to let it out, but maybe it didnt go back out of the high side.. I dont know.
*Some things tell me the high and low side are connected and some things indicate they are not connected.*
MR1: I did not figure out what was wrong. The dealer did. However, they said they checked the pressure the first time it was in the shop, but I guess they lied. Because the system has been screwed up since I bought the car. Seriously, the first time I was at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX, they said they didn't know what was wrong with it and they could not get it to act up, but "the system is properly charged". So when I took it back in again to them a month later, they were able to see how the damn thing was cycling off immediately when it tried to engage.. So I suspect it was then why they Really decided to inspect it and they found that the high side was too high. And yes I hate being lied to like they apparently did the first time. At least either they lied to me or Misread the high side pressure. I think they could not misread the pressure if the gauge was plugged into the system. So I have no choice but to think they did not do their job properly the first time. But that is people for you. I just drove 15 miles across Dallas to get some 2500 grit wetordry sand paper and they only had it in the 50 sheet pack and I asked the lady if at noon if she had any and she said yes but failed to tell me I gotta buy the industrial size. I really wanted to choke the living daylights out of her. And she just laughed it off. "OOPS!" she said. But that is how people address their work. Very lax. I nearly have to figure everything out for myself and ask very specific questions in order to get an accurate response out of people. Otherwise its a crap shoot as to what you will get. Like I went into Wendy's a few days ago and got my usual. Doublestack with no catsup or cheese. And they also say, "why do you come in her so much?" they know me very well. Hell the guy that takes my order in the drive through practically hits on my every time I am there. So, anyway, I told him the same thing every day.. NO CATSUP and NO CHEESE.. And he was just bouncing off the walls one day because he was just to happy and didn’t really feel like being at work, and just ran my order through and didn’t specify what I had said. And sure enough I got and greasy cheesy hamburer that tasted like french fry (w/ kethup on it). OOPS!
06-30-2009, 02:48 PM
#28
Senior Moderator
Trek: I don't know how it got too high, but it has been messed up ever since I bought the car last year. I checked the low side pressure and it was within the normal range. So, I wonder since the high side is proportional to the low side, does that mean the high side drains into the low side when you turn off the car? Are they connected? The compressor does lose pressure and the regain pressure everytime you turn off the car. Thats why it takes a while to build pressure and get cold. So are the low and high side connected? I don't know how it works but if they are connected then why didn't I detect it being too high on the low side?
The only other senario I can think of is if the low and high side are connected to each other, and therefore the high side is in some way proportional to the low side, then if the high side was way too high and the low side normal, then appearently the high side does not drain back to the low side. So, i'm wondering where the refrigerant goes when the system is off. So maybe its possible that someone filled the low side with too much and then tried to let it out, but maybe it didnt go back out of the high side.. I dont know.
*Some things tell me the high and low side are connected and some things indicate they are not connected.*
MR1: I did not figure out what was wrong. The dealer did. However, they said they checked the pressure the first time it was in the shop, but I guess they lied. Because the system has been screwed up since I bought the car. Seriously, the first time I was at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX, they said they didn't know what was wrong with it and they could not get it to act up, but "the system is properly charged". So when I took it back in again to them a month later, they were able to see how the damn thing was cycling off immediately when it tried to engage.. So I suspect it was then why they Really decided to inspect it and they found that the high side was too high. And yes I hate being lied to like they apparently did the first time. At least either they lied to me or Misread the high side pressure. I think they could not misread the pressure if the gauge was plugged into the system. So I have no choice but to think they did not do their job properly the first time. But that is people for you. I just drove 15 miles across Dallas to get some 2500 grit wetordry sand paper and they only had it in the 50 sheet pack and I asked the lady if at noon if she had any and she said yes but failed to tell me I gotta buy the industrial size. I really wanted to choke the living daylights out of her. And she just laughed it off. "OOPS!" she said. But that is how people address their work. Very lax. I nearly have to figure everything out for myself and ask very specific questions in order to get an accurate response out of people. Otherwise its a crap shoot as to what you will get. Like I went into Wendy's a few days ago and got my usual. Doublestack with no catsup or cheese. And they also say, "why do you come in her so much?" they know me very well. Hell the guy that takes my order in the drive through practically hits on my every time I am there. So, anyway, I told him the same thing every day.. NO CATSUP and NO CHEESE.. And he was just bouncing off the walls one day because he was just to happy and didn’t really feel like being at work, and just ran my order through and didn’t specify what I had said. And sure enough I got and greasy cheesy hamburer that tasted like french fry (w/ kethup on it). OOPS!
The only other senario I can think of is if the low and high side are connected to each other, and therefore the high side is in some way proportional to the low side, then if the high side was way too high and the low side normal, then appearently the high side does not drain back to the low side. So, i'm wondering where the refrigerant goes when the system is off. So maybe its possible that someone filled the low side with too much and then tried to let it out, but maybe it didnt go back out of the high side.. I dont know.
*Some things tell me the high and low side are connected and some things indicate they are not connected.*
MR1: I did not figure out what was wrong. The dealer did. However, they said they checked the pressure the first time it was in the shop, but I guess they lied. Because the system has been screwed up since I bought the car. Seriously, the first time I was at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX, they said they didn't know what was wrong with it and they could not get it to act up, but "the system is properly charged". So when I took it back in again to them a month later, they were able to see how the damn thing was cycling off immediately when it tried to engage.. So I suspect it was then why they Really decided to inspect it and they found that the high side was too high. And yes I hate being lied to like they apparently did the first time. At least either they lied to me or Misread the high side pressure. I think they could not misread the pressure if the gauge was plugged into the system. So I have no choice but to think they did not do their job properly the first time. But that is people for you. I just drove 15 miles across Dallas to get some 2500 grit wetordry sand paper and they only had it in the 50 sheet pack and I asked the lady if at noon if she had any and she said yes but failed to tell me I gotta buy the industrial size. I really wanted to choke the living daylights out of her. And she just laughed it off. "OOPS!" she said. But that is how people address their work. Very lax. I nearly have to figure everything out for myself and ask very specific questions in order to get an accurate response out of people. Otherwise its a crap shoot as to what you will get. Like I went into Wendy's a few days ago and got my usual. Doublestack with no catsup or cheese. And they also say, "why do you come in her so much?" they know me very well. Hell the guy that takes my order in the drive through practically hits on my every time I am there. So, anyway, I told him the same thing every day.. NO CATSUP and NO CHEESE.. And he was just bouncing off the walls one day because he was just to happy and didn’t really feel like being at work, and just ran my order through and didn’t specify what I had said. And sure enough I got and greasy cheesy hamburer that tasted like french fry (w/ kethup on it). OOPS!
07-25-2009, 01:12 AM
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
I think I like csmeance..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rockyboy
2G RDX (2013-2018)
170
12-06-2022 02:29 PM
handsom-hustla
Car Parts for Sale
70
11-13-2015 05:04 PM
Yumcha
Automotive News
1
09-17-2015 09:01 PM
