Opel

Ok, This is pretty easy to do,

I had to grind down the SC (slave cylinder) to get the locking ring out, which holds the back cap in place, so ignore that part. You will have to do something. different. The pics are of my old SC, which I broke, and also the locking ring is lost, but dont worry about that, youll see what im talking about, so anyway....

Once you get the SC of the car, you will need 2 needle screw drivers (at least its what i used, 2 small flat screw drivers, i cut the tips on an angle to create a sharp needle tip,

Use those to try and pull out the locking ring (it can be a bitch, especially on an old SC) First, bang on the cap a little, just to relieve some pressure off the locking ring.

Then, you will need a small channel lock, or needle nose pliers to pull out the cap. Another alternative is a very thin screw driver, by inserting it through the small hole on the front of the SC where the fluid line connects... Then just bang on the screw driver until cap pops out through the back (dont worry, this will not screw up anything. you might only break the check valve, but thats what this is about )

Once the cap comes out, youll also push out the plastic cylinder (checkvalve) which you will no longer need.

Put everything back, minus the evil check valve, and ur good to go.
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Opel/My%20Documents/Slave%20cylinder%20001.jpg[/IMG]

RonJonTL757

And this does.......

phee

iTrader: (5)

WhTs the point?

Opel

This was posted for the people that are interested in getting rid of it....which they asked, and I had done it...and so i shared it

Check valve inside the slave cylinder prevents the clutch engaging all at once by slowing down fluid return once you let go of the clutch pedal... this was done for smoother shifts, and not really for true enthusiasts.

if you're just a regual driver, and never really beat on the car...u should leave it alone.

but if ure someone like me, or drive half of the way i do...then that checkvalve is making ur clutch wear out much faster, and at the same time ur power is not being put to the ground fully, initially once you shift and pop the clutch....

slower clutch engagement caused by the checkvalve results in huge amounts of slippage, especialy near redline quick shifts....

also for those who have an aftermarket clutch setup...this is an enemy...its preventing you from taking full advantage of ur new high performance clutch...and in my case, it would destroy the flywheel being that the clutch disk is ceramic... and like i said... not putting down full power on each shift....

once the checkvalve is removed, then there's nothing in between the pressure plate and ur clutch pedal...only free flowing fluid.... the heavier ur pressure plate, the quicker ur engagement, no slippage, and more power to the ground.

hope that clarifies everything

NAiL05

Thanks! the writeup is great...Coming from driving older cars this newer clutch setup sucks. The dampening hinders my driving feel and you can feel it try to grab but its not quite there (not slipping yet) when you accelerate quickly from a light and thats only in 1st gear trying to get up to speed. When you drive a car hard and you have something that does more harm than good (search for that one person that got his clutch changed) He had a ton of heat spotting all over the PP and Flywheel but the clutch disk seemed pretty healthy. But yea IMO this mod is beneficial but if you arent used to manual or dont rag on the car as mentioned this mod is not for you.

I hate cars

I'm still amazed the factory did this. They don't have much faith in the average driver. I wonder if the European or Japanese TLs have the same restrictor.

Ramrodthrusterpuppy

[QUOTE=NAiL05;11074334] The dampening hinders my driving feel and you can feel it try to grab but its not quite there (not slipping yet) when you accelerate quickly from a light and thats only in 1st gear trying to get up to speed. QUOTE]

Interesting....thanks for the explanation, guys. I experience this once in awhile when hooking up hard from first. There's a slight hang up before the car accelerates...I was wondering what it was. Good to know that there's a mod to correct this because it is frustrating....

Opel

they did that for smoother shifts, cause they know, the typical driver will bitch and moan about it...also reduces most banging through the tranny, and save motor mounts...the car was intended to be a daily driver with some sportiness abilities, but either way, for me it sucked, which is why i did what i did.... too bad i just recently joined the forum...ive done this years ago...had the car since it came out...pretty much changed everything i didn't like lol from bumper to bumper..

there's no tl in europe or japan...and i wish they were released in japan...the aftermarket support would've been tremendous...and we wouldn't still be suffering for tuning availabilities to 5 years later still... yeah i know there's some options out there...but they're crap and not 100% anyway

NAiL05

Yep the first sentence settled it. Honda recently has been getting complaints about that. The s2000 was the one that started it I think. The AP1 had no dampener until the AP2 came out...The main reason was "some" people that bought the AP1 complained about the harshness of the vehicle, the clutch, and so on...Thats why if you drive an ap2 you notice a difference in feel it doesnt feel as stiff and so on. It sucks unfortunately but I never understood why buy a sports car if your gonna complain it is harsh? Anyway the popular mod for the ap2 is to swap to the ap1 slave cylinder if only we had that choice but this will do =D.

phee

iTrader: (5)

i drive very hard. will this shorten the life of my clutch?

Tripnbeats

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...sep4_b2320.gif

so are we looking at #8 or #10 in this pic?

Opel

Not removing the checkvalve will shorten the clutch life, just like its been doing...unless you dont even drive hard.

and if you have an aftermarket clutch set...checkvalve prevents you from taking full advantage of it...and cause slippage as well... i know it did for me, cause i shift lightening fast.

Opel

you're looking at number 10..... slave cylinder is right in front of the radiator on the tranny, its very visible.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

^also what is the cons for doing this mod? And when you say harsher, do you mean clutch pedal feel?

On a side note; I would love to do this mod due to the stock clutch performance. However, I don't want to run in the situation similar to the innovative motor mounts. They work fine don't get me wrong, the vibration is the trade off there. I have gotten use to it though.

Tripnbeats

i absolutely despise the feel from this shit box clutch..... i cannot wait to get a new slave n rip that crap out. harsher feel im sure depending on how u engage the clutch but if your good and keeping it steady isnt an issue then the feel will be fine....i usually hit the throttle a few times for the pressure to build so that it engages correctly otherwise keeping the rev up n clutch moving forward thing just makes it stutter and feel like absolute dookie.

I hate cars

It's nothing you shouldn't be able to relearn and change in your driving style.

Vibrations will be unchanged.

Opel

clutch pedal feel wont change...unless u install a heavier Pressure plate.... its not gonna be something you cant bear with...you will just experience a fully engaged clutch, quicker... just think about this....u can pop the clutch quicker than the pressure plate takes time to fully engage...and we're talking in a sec...but think about what happens at 7000 rpm at WOP, you pop the clutch...and pressure plate takes its own sweet time to clamp that clutch disk against the flywheel... i can tell u from my experience... maybe i just shift too fucking fast...but i destroyed 2 stock clutches and i wasn't even SC at that time

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

good info.

opel your sig says 370 Whp, 315 TrQ. what mods have you done? those are some good numbers.

Opel

i should actually change the sig

those numbers are from 6.5 psi

S/C, Injen CAI, custom forged pistons, gas nitrided rings (they seal better than stock) water/meth injection, custom downpipes, electric exhaust cutout, IM heatshield...and blah blah blah...

just added another 3 psi...to 9-10 psi so i should be over 400 whp... i just gotta go to the dyno and get the new numbers

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Cool! You got my mouth watering now!

Next question; how hard is it to do this mod? I'm not a mechnic, but I've done most of the mods on the car. What do I need to do this? Thanks!

RonJonTL757

Im down to do this mod together if ya want

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Hell ya! We can tag team it. Your car can be the guinea pig as usual! lol!

I hate cars

Very nice! It's good to see someone taking advantage of meth injection. With your mods, the new turbo kit would put you well over 500whp with a huge gain in torque.

ussi

iTrader: (1)

You're running 10psi on a stock clutch??

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

crazy guy..

nice.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

blah blah blah??!!! what else is this blah blah blah???

post some pics pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee e

Opel

not really interested in that turbo... from what it looks...only front bank exhaust is used to spool it, which in this case you end up with uneven exhaust flow from the 2 heads... thats a big no-no for me.... also... i have yet to see a good tuning something-something.... everyone's claiming so much shit but nothing to ever show for it....

ill tell you what... IM NOT EVEN TUNED.... and look at the numbers... but ill also say this... stock TL pistons are crap for one, and 2nd, compression is too high.... with 11.0:1 compression, you better have that car very finely tuned, and ur charged air temp low...bcs if you drive ur car hard enough like I do... you will break the stock pistons... if you dont believe me...give it a try. I DID, TWICE....

which is why now i have 9.5:1 compression forged pistons and gas nitrided rings ..that have been tested to 42 psi

now you speak of the turbo making 500 whp with my mods...maybe...but once u break the 400 whp barrier, you gotta start worrying about rods, rod cap bolts, head bolts...blah blah blah.... i think i saw some numbers of the turbo TL that they got with 9 psi but will see...

first, id like to know who else is running 9-10 psi on stock internals... and i wanna drive that car! bcs i dont think its driven hard enough!!!! and i mean that.

cheers:::

Opel

i have a 6 puck unsprung ceramic disk and 70% over stock PP
and of course, the modified slave cylinder

phee

iTrader: (5)

just checked. the cl-s 6 speed slave cylinder doesnt seem to have this. ( i used a cl-s6 slave on my 05 tl tranny) i also remember that acura had a clutch dampener on the cl. (many people removed it for increased pedal response)

maybe that why i had none of the symptoms described above. my clutch grabs hard and snaps good

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

So you're saying that we can swap a cl-s 6 speed slave cylinder for our stock one without mods? Time to shop some savage yards. Good deal!

NAiL05

It is the same part number but I dunno if it was the same design. I was thinkin about doing that the first time but sharing the same part number I dunno. I would literally have to get both and line them up side by side.

Tripnbeats

yea id love to get on the turbo tl..... i dont know how pass drives it but he says he really leans into it.... i bet i can beat the living crap out of it so much worse. lol

phee

iTrader: (5)

i noticed that the parts numbers were the same on some sites and different on others. i know the cl-s one is cheaper.

let me check real quick

phee

iTrader: (5)

cl one is 46930-S3M-A01
tl one is 46930-SDP-A01

definitely not the same thing.

ironically, the tl one is cheaper :p

let me check my parts list to see which one i ended up buying. but im almost positive its the cl one

ill be replacing my transmission mounts this afternoon. ill report back with a pic for you guys

RonJonTL757

HAHA you know it

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Ok I'm confused. I just looked on the Delray Acura Parts site. The parts # (46930-S3M-A01) for the 04 TL's are the same as the CL's. The 05 and up are 46930-SDP-A01.

So I have the same part as the CL's.

phee

iTrader: (5)

oh. im looking at 05

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

But if all the 04's are the same, then you should have had the same as the CL's in the first place. Right? Maybe it's just different numbers, but the same part as 05 +.

phee

iTrader: (5)

not exactly. im sure acura used a lot of similar parts from previous cars for the first model year of the 3rd gen tl.

with the 05 came some revisions (this is why the 04 auto trannies had similar problems to the 2g auto trannies)

im sure they got rid of the independent clutch dampener from the 04 and cl-s and decided to use a checkvalve.

have you been able to see if you have the valve?

i forgot to take a pic today because i was too busy taking pics of this

Majofo

nice info.. opel you should definitely stay active on the forum. You'd probably get donations for your contributions.. lol..