A must for the 6MT TL - CorSport Aluminum Shifter Cable Bushings

[Black_05_TL_6SP]

CorSport Aluminum Shifter Cable Bushings I was able to get these installed last week and I wanted to drive with them in before making any comments. My comments- A must do for the 6MT. This gives a much tighter feel to the shifter. Combined with the CSS and a weighted knob, this feels great. Now I just need to get the slave cylinder done! The install is not horrible, but is a bit of a pain. Just getting the bushing out of the shift linkage was a headache. The larger one is not bad, but the small one took some serious work to force it out.

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[FCVadi]

any DIY?

[Black_05_TL_6SP]

Originally Posted by FCVadi

any DIY?

I could write it up, but no pictures at this time.

[ml3456]

The small one is tough. I made a little puller out of a 1/4"x 3" bolt washer and nut and pulled it into a 25 mm 1/2" drive socket. Almost didn't need a wrench.

Mod works great.

ML

[FCVadi]

do we follow the same guidlines for the short shift then the next steps or something beyond that or is it totally different?

[Black_05_TL_6SP]

Originally Posted by FCVadi

do we follow the same guidlines for the short shift then the next steps or something beyond that or is it totally different?

Not 100% on your question, but this mod has nothing to do with the short shifter. The short shifter is installed inside the car. The Bushings are installed under the hood.

Just a quick write up of the DIY.

Tools needed (for me) -
Ratchet
10mm socket
12mm socket
3" extension
needle nose pliers
white lithium grease
cotter pin extractor (helped a little, but not required)
Fender well cover

1. If you still have the factory airbox you will want to pull it out along with disconnecting the tube to the Throttle Body (TB). If you have a CAI, you will just need to remove it from the TB.

The instructions that are included with the bushings say you may need to remove the battery. I did not do this. If it is in the way, you may want to remove the strut bar. Not needed, but an option.

2. There are some wire looms in the way, you will need to move them to the side. This requires you to unbolt 2 10mm bolts. I will try and get some pictures of this and add to the thread.

3. You will then need to loosen three 12mm bolts that hold down the shift linkage. This is located towards the rear of the transmission. This is not needed to remove the rubber ones from the guide pins, but to put the aluminum ones back on the guide pins it has to be loose!

4. You will need to remove the cotter pins that are located on the top of the OEM bushings. This was a bit of a pain as there is not a lot of room to work.

I tried the cotter pin extractor, but could not get good leverage with it. I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to work it out.

5 With the cotter pins removed, you can lift the shift linkage off the guide pin. I used a flat blade screw driver to force out the larger bushing. It came out fairly easy. The little one was a real booger.

I was finally able to force one side of the bushing out using the flat blade, just be extremely careful not to slip and cut yourself (and no, I did not cut myself, but have in the past trying to force something) as the shift linkage will want to spin.

6. With the rubber bushings removed, you are ready to install the aluminum ones. You will want to use some white lithium grease on the outside as well as a little on the inside of the bushing.

7. With the bushing greased, you will want to install the bushing into the shift linkage ring. You will then use the supplied E-clip and push it over the part of the bushing that is sticking out at the bottom.

It did not say anywhere what side was the top or bottom. I installed mine with the E-clip on the bottom.




8. This is where you will need to have the shift linkage loose, as you will need to set the bushing on the guide pin. Once they are installed, wipe any of the grease off the top of the guide pin and install the supplied cotter pin. Stick it through the guide pin hole and bend the ends back around the guide pin.

9. Now reinstall the three 12mm bolts that were removed to allow for the shift linkage to be moved. Start the bolts, but do not run one down until you have start all three.

10. Move wiring back into place and bolt it back up with the removed 10mm bolts.

11. Reinstall your intake and battery if you removed it.

Again, I will try to take some pictures to help illustrate this. Feel free to add comments if you have done the install yourself and would like to add to the thread.

Mods, if this is sufficient, feel free to add it in the garage as a DIY.

[bpham]

I did this too. I was amazed at how much crisper the shifting was. Well worth the money

[Black_05_TL_6SP]

Took a few photos to add to the DIY
Tools needed (for me) -
Ratchet
10mm socket
12mm socket
3" extension
needle nose pliers
white lithium grease
cotter pin extractor (helped a little, but not required)
Fender well cover

1. If you still have the factory airbox you will want to pull it out along with disconnecting the tube to the Throttle Body (TB). If you have a CAI, you will just need to remove it from the TB.

The instructions that are included with the bushings say you may need to remove the battery. I did not do this. If it is in the way, you may want to remove the strut bar. Not needed, but an option.

2. There are some wire looms in the way, you will need to move them to the side. This requires you to unbolt 2 10mm bolts. I will try and get some pictures of this and add to the thread.



3. You will then need to loosen three 12mm bolts that hold down the shift linkage. This is located towards the rear of the transmission. This is not needed to remove the rubber ones from the guide pins, but to put the aluminum ones back on the guide pins it has to be loose!



4. You will need to remove the cotter pins that are located on the top of the OEM bushings. This was a bit of a pain as there is not a lot of room to work.

I tried the cotter pin extractor, but could not get good leverage with it. I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to work it out.



5 With the cotter pins removed, you can lift the shift linkage off the guide pin. I used a flat blade screw driver to force out the larger bushing. It came out fairly easy. The little one was a real booger.

I was finally able to force one side of the bushing out using the flat blade, just be extremely careful not to slip and cut yourself (and no, I did not cut myself, but have in the past trying to force something) as the shift linkage will want to spin.

6. With the rubber bushings removed, you are ready to install the aluminum ones. You will want to use some white lithium grease on the outside as well as a little on the inside of the bushing.

7. With the bushing greased, you will want to install the bushing into the shift linkage ring. You will then use the supplied E-clip and push it over the part of the bushing that is sticking out at the bottom.

It did not say anywhere what side was the top or bottom. I installed mine with the E-clip on the bottom.




8. This is where you will need to have the shift linkage loose, as you will need to set the bushing on the guide pin. Once they are installed, wipe any of the grease off the top of the guide pin and install the supplied cotter pin. Stick it through the guide pin hole and bend the ends back around the guide pin.

9. Now reinstall the three 12mm bolts that were removed to allow for the shift linkage to be moved. Start the bolts, but do not run one down until you have start all three.

10. Move wiring back into place and bolt it back up with the removed 10mm bolts.

11. Reinstall your intake and battery if you removed it.

Again, I will try to take some pictures to help illustrate this. Feel free to add comments if you have done the install yourself and would like to add to the thread.

Mods, if this is sufficient, feel free to add it in the garage as a DIY.

[Kennedy]

Had these for over 2 years... Good mod. he used to make them out of Brass.
I wrote up some material on these back then. It seems that stuff rolls off and is forgotten, then comes back with a new generation of folks coming on.

6MT must mods:
- GM Synchromesh
- Short Shifter
- Weighted shift knob
- Corsport bushings

I was just looking over the slave cylinder release valve removal to get the bite back on the clutch...

That's a likely add on too.

[Black_05_TL_6SP]

Originally Posted by Kennedy

Had these for over 2 years... Good mod. he used to make them out of Brass.
I wrote up some material on these back then. It seems that stuff rolls off and is forgotten, then comes back with a new generation of folks coming on.

6MT must mods:
- GM Synchromesh
- Short Shifter
- Weighted shift knob
- Corsport bushings

I was just looking over the slave cylinder release valve removal to get the bite back on the clutch...

That's a likely add on too.

Have now done all of the above as well. Really changes the way the shifter feels. I too am doing the slave cylinder mod. I already removed it from the SC, but have not yet had time to install it on the car (darn yard work).

Would be nice to get this added to the DIY garage list for future modders!

[KN_TL]

Originally Posted by Kennedy

6MT must mods:
- GM Synchromesh
- Short Shifter
- Weighted shift knob
- Corsport bushings
.

[rockstar143]

Hmmm...funny, I'm doing this in reverse...started with the slave cylinder mod and I'll have to try all these others now!

J.

[t0talacuratl]

Originally Posted by Kennedy

Had these for over 2 years... Good mod. he used to make them out of Brass.
I wrote up some material on these back then. It seems that stuff rolls off and is forgotten, then comes back with a new generation of folks coming on.

6MT must mods:
- GM Synchromesh
- Short Shifter
- Weighted shift knob
- Corsport bushings

I was just looking over the slave cylinder release valve removal to get the bite back on the clutch...

That's a likely add on too.

I have all the above done except the shift knob, but including the slave cylinder mod. I love my shifting efforts now! My wrist is getting more of a workout rather than my arm.

[win63dow]

Hey guys My slave cylinder is leaking or something .My master was empty the other day I filled it up now it's fine again . Is there another slave cylinder to replace the one I have that doesn't have the valve in it ?

[InFaMouSLink]

just did mine. so far feels stiffer, crispier. didnt move anything around. i was able to get to the rear and front bushing quite easy.

one thing i noticed is that in the larger bushing assembly, i was able to use the old paper and metal washers above the corsport bushing but not on the smaller one.

Also for the smaller bushing, i used a nut and bolt thru the old bushing and pryied it out using a panel puller ( 5 seconds and it was done!! ). that little fcker did not want to come out easy any other way.

[rajin_2.3cl]

i've got my bushings sitting on my shelf since the summer lol

i really need to get on this!

can you guys explain how you used the nut and bolt to pull the old bushing out?

[alexSU]

man, another mod i gotta do. it just doesn't stop lol

[InFaMouSLink]

Originally Posted by rajin_2.3cl

i've got my bushings sitting on my shelf since the summer lol

i really need to get on this!

can you guys explain how you used the nut and bolt to pull the old bushing out?

this is just on the smaller bushing, cuz the larger one just falls out with little force. i took off the cotter pin, lifted up on the old cable with bushing installed, turned it sideways in order to be able to use both hands to install the bolt and nut thru the center hole. thats give you something to hold on to and basically twist it off. i used a panel puller and that sucker popped right off. you dont want the nut and bolt tight on it just something for leverage.

The old bushing are rubber which gives it alot of play, you just got to twist/pry that thing out. same concept of the screwdriver but easier cuz you dont have to try to get the try screwdriver under that sucker. The OEM bushings have a lip that goes around the metel ring that holds it in so it would have probably been a pain in the ass with just a screwdriver.

Metal ring holder:



Metal ring holder and you can see the smaller bushing as well still untouched.



side comparison of the larger bushings

[InFaMouSLink]

i'll take some pics of the oem bushings so you can see what im talking later.

[Schu]

Doesn't hybrid racing have this mod set to? as well as a cable set with spherical bearing ends

[HQTL6SPD]

I found it even easier to use pliers. Basically held the bushing in the very center, then twist up, and it came right out.

[ussi]

Great write up. Probably best $30 I ever spent on my car.

[rajin_2.3cl]

Originally Posted by InFaMouSLink

i took off the cotter pin, lifted up on the old cable with bushing installed, turned it sideways in order to be able to use both hands to install the bolt and nut thru the center hole. thats give you something to hold on to and basically twist it off. i used a panel puller and that sucker popped right off. you dont want the nut and bolt tight on it just something for leverage.

The old bushing are rubber which gives it alot of play, you just got to twist/pry that thing out. same concept of the screwdriver but easier cuz you dont have to try to get the try screwdriver under that sucker. The OEM bushings have a lip that goes around the metel ring that holds it in so it would have probably been a pain in the ass with just a screwdriver.

ahh gotcha, thanks for the explaination

[MrHeeltoe]

We've been selling these for a while and have installed a bunch. We actually have a quote out now for getting some made in delrin...a light plastic with self-lubricating properties. We were hoping to get the feel of the corsport with a little smoother action.

[MrHeeltoe]

We were going to tweak the design a bit to make the install a bit smoother as well.