APP Sensor....Guaranteed to Cr@p out?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
APP Sensor....Guaranteed to Cr@p out?
Hey guy, my 05 TL only has about 64k on it, but I am starting to think about the APP sensor.
You can read more in this awesome thread (which you should read anyway)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=704808&page=3
Is it almost guaranteed to fail? As in, should I be carrying an extra one around in my car in case I get stranded on the road? I guess it couldn't hurt but I am wondering how common this actually is.
Thanks!
You can read more in this awesome thread (which you should read anyway)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=704808&page=3
Is it almost guaranteed to fail? As in, should I be carrying an extra one around in my car in case I get stranded on the road? I guess it couldn't hurt but I am wondering how common this actually is.
Thanks!
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
correct sir, it will limit your speeds and RPM just enough for you to limp to a shop.
I also dont think its a wide spread problem. yes we hear it more often, because a forum is used to tell about and ask about problems.
my 06 has 40k on the clock and im not worried about the app sensor.
but now that you do know the symptoms of an APP sensor fail, if it ever happened to you, you can diagnose and fix the problem swiftly.
I also dont think its a wide spread problem. yes we hear it more often, because a forum is used to tell about and ask about problems.
my 06 has 40k on the clock and im not worried about the app sensor.
but now that you do know the symptoms of an APP sensor fail, if it ever happened to you, you can diagnose and fix the problem swiftly.
Last edited by justnspace; 01-06-2011 at 09:16 AM.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
#6
Race Director
I don't know about "guaranteed", but there has been a noticeable failure rate of this part. Combine that with the fact that the part was/(is?) on national back order tells more of the story.
#8
Race Director
Don't know, that's why I put the "?" after "is". As of about a month ago, it was.
#11
Race Director
I'm at about 106,6XX. No, I haven't even got a CEL in all those miles, but reading all the APP failures here on Azine has caught my eye...
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
the OP provided a link, then if you're still curious you can continue to find more about it.
So im crusin in second gear and all the sudden i get a loss of power. My engine is not responding to the pedal, like i was running out of gas. Next my Engine like turns on and it feels like the computer put on this 10 mPH governor on it forcing me to pull off the road. I turn off the car let it rest and then it worked fine. wheeew. But weeks later it happens again then again more and more frequently in first second and third gears...and when on freeway jerks in gears 4-6. today i start it and puting the pedal to the metal the car would only go 5mph. hour later it moving normal except for jerking on slightest pedal movment.. My mechanic says its the throttle body .... Has anyone here has experienced similar symptoms?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hi and welcome to acurazine! Your post belongs in the 3G TL section so I'll move it for you.
The problem seems to be your APP (Acceleration Pedal Position Switch). When the car doesn't recognize the signal from your accelerator, it goes into LIMP mode so you don't kill yourself by speeding uncontrollably and as well so you don't damage the car. Many other folks have had this problem. Search for APP sensor and you'll see the results.
The problem seems to be your APP (Acceleration Pedal Position Switch). When the car doesn't recognize the signal from your accelerator, it goes into LIMP mode so you don't kill yourself by speeding uncontrollably and as well so you don't damage the car. Many other folks have had this problem. Search for APP sensor and you'll see the results.
2138 is the APP sensor (incorrect voltage correlation). The APP sensor assembly (part of the drive by wire system) is really 2 APP sensors that run concurrently. They compare signals and if they are not identical, the system goes into limp mode. Having dual sensors that check each other is a safety feature to prevent runaway acceleration caused by any single faulty unit. (The runaway toyotas only had a single APP sensor).
I'm going to guess the 420 code (rear bank cat below efficiency threshold) is just a spurious signal related to limp mode.
Do a search, there is a thread or two on replacing the APP sensor. It's very easy to do yourself. As I said earlier, the hard part may be finding the part in stock....
I'm going to guess the 420 code (rear bank cat below efficiency threshold) is just a spurious signal related to limp mode.
Do a search, there is a thread or two on replacing the APP sensor. It's very easy to do yourself. As I said earlier, the hard part may be finding the part in stock....
Last edited by justnspace; 01-06-2011 at 10:58 AM.
#15
Race Director
#16
although it is not a common problem, it does happen. what makes some go faster than others? im not sure. My buddies sensor went at about roughly 70k.. I dont think this is something we need to keep on reserve, but if the symptoms ever come up atleast we know what the problem is..
#18
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but for the OP, very few sensor failure will leave you stranded (something like a alternator or battery will though), the engine may run like shit and limit you in speed, but it will still at least get you to safety (maybe not the dealer especially if far away, mainly thinking like a gas station where there is a phone and warmth, and you can wait for a tow truck)
#19
Three Wheelin'
#20
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
please refer to post #14.
I did the hard work for you and quoted several people on what the APP sensor does, and what code is thrown and how to fix.
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
2138 is the APP sensor (incorrect voltage correlation). The APP sensor assembly (part of the drive by wire system) is really 2 APP sensors that run concurrently. They compare signals and if they are not identical, the system goes into limp mode. Having dual sensors that check each other is a safety feature to prevent runaway acceleration caused by any single faulty unit. (The runaway toyotas only had a single APP sensor).
I'm going to guess the 420 code (rear bank cat below efficiency threshold) is just a spurious signal related to limp mode.
Do a search, there is a thread or two on replacing the APP sensor. It's very easy to do yourself. As I said earlier, the hard part may be finding the part in stock....
I'm going to guess the 420 code (rear bank cat below efficiency threshold) is just a spurious signal related to limp mode.
Do a search, there is a thread or two on replacing the APP sensor. It's very easy to do yourself. As I said earlier, the hard part may be finding the part in stock....
Last edited by justnspace; 01-06-2011 at 02:42 PM.
#21
Race Director
A little more detail: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor.
Has an A and B sensor. It sends variable voltage signal to the ECM/PCM based on accelerator pedal movement. The ECM/PCM then in turn moves throttle valve based on voltage signal received from APP sensor.
The ECM/PCM compares the voltage signals it receives from each sensor (A and B). If the voltage is different, it puts the car in limp mode.
Has an A and B sensor. It sends variable voltage signal to the ECM/PCM based on accelerator pedal movement. The ECM/PCM then in turn moves throttle valve based on voltage signal received from APP sensor.
The ECM/PCM compares the voltage signals it receives from each sensor (A and B). If the voltage is different, it puts the car in limp mode.
#22
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
A little more detail: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor.
Has an A and B sensor. It sends variable voltage signal to the ECM/PCM based on accelerator pedal movement. The ECM/PCM then in turn moves throttle valve based on voltage signal received from APP sensor.
The ECM/PCM compares the voltage signals it receives from each sensor (A and B). If the voltage is different, it puts the car in limp mode.
Has an A and B sensor. It sends variable voltage signal to the ECM/PCM based on accelerator pedal movement. The ECM/PCM then in turn moves throttle valve based on voltage signal received from APP sensor.
The ECM/PCM compares the voltage signals it receives from each sensor (A and B). If the voltage is different, it puts the car in limp mode.
#23
B-MAC
I replaced mine back in October. It is located right below the front strut bar in the middle. Be sure that if you are ever replacing it that the car is cooled down or burn you will receive. Mine crapped out at around 68k. Since the part was on backorder then as well I had to drive (as little I could) on limp mode for two weeks. But I did find out that if you do go into limp mode, simply pull over and turn off the car, wait ten seconds, and turn it back on and it will run fine then. But if this happens be careful not to gun it or you will cause the car to go right back into limp mode again. Anyway, my two cents... any questions you can ask, I've been there done that...
PS new app sensor made the car feel brand new again.
PS new app sensor made the car feel brand new again.
#24
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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Wow...may have to look into that.
I'll spare a snide response to the smartass answer since you did actually answer my question. I didn't feel like rereading an entire thread looking for a needle...figured there would be some members on this thread that would be able to simply tell me what it was without having to back and look it up.
kthnxcya.
I'll spare a snide response to the smartass answer since you did actually answer my question. I didn't feel like rereading an entire thread looking for a needle...figured there would be some members on this thread that would be able to simply tell me what it was without having to back and look it up.
kthnxcya.
#25
Needs wheels
I also found that turning off VSA will prevent it going back into limp mode...not the best solution, but it will keep you moving until you can get the sensor replaced
#27
I got a couple of limp modes and I was reading last night and I seen one quote regarding tightening the cable. I did tighten the cable and pick up the slack last night and drove the car whole day today so far so good. Im goiing to drive more this week and see before replacing the APP unit.
#28
Success!
After the dealership advised me that they could find nothing wrong with my car and would not be able to diagnose the problem unless I got the car there before the check engine codes erased themselves, I went and got my own OBD2 reader. The code was 2183. So I then got myself a new sensor from AcuraOEMparts.com ($140 including shipping and handling) and replaced the part myself. I am not a mechanic, but I got up the courage thanks to the excellent photos on another thread https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-app-sensor-730958/#post11244755. It was so easy! Now the problem is gone and the car runs smoother now than it has for years! This is a great web site!
#29
I had a more subtle failure on my Accelerator pedal position sensor. As I've read from others, the car felt a slight drag and speed variation cruisng at 70ish. Sort of an off off hesitation. I kept driving it that way for a few months and one day I had the check eng went on along with VSA light and it went into limp mode briefly. I stopped the motor and popped the hood looking for something obvious, like a burned up engine or oil leak. When I restarted it seemed okay. I got ahold of a code reader and shore enough it was the APP sensor code which I ordered from Del Ray at $140.00. I'm a true novice at working on modern vehicles and it probably took me 1/2 an hour since I was figuring things out as I went. It would take 10 mins to due it again. Agree with others. The new switch seemed to allow better acceleration at all speeds so likely this was going for a while. My 04 tsx has 103k on it and I've suffered many of the common issues of the last 4 years such as radio lights, lock accuator, repetitive blown accessory fuses and a couple of recall issues but it is a nice car and fun to drive. I had to panic brake it the other day to avoid a $%&wad stopping for no reason and I was very impressed with the combo of those big wide paws and antilock brakes which made for a very fast and very controlled stop. nice.....
#31
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Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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this is the post, specifically
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=117
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=117
#32
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Got the code VSA and engine check light. Went into limp mode. Code read 2138 throttle body Scanned the car did live test of the pedal 8.6%-92.5%. Ordered the Sensor as well the throttle body unit. Acura Dealer quoted me $900 with entire unit. Telling me Acura only sells it together not the sensor separately. Called Honda dealer they quoted me $350 same part entire unit, sensor itself $250. Found same unit sensor for $60 throttle body unit, sensor $25 all delivered.
Last edited by 49er; 09-03-2021 at 12:36 AM.
#33
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Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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Got the code VSA and engine check light. Went into limp mode. Code read 2138 throttle body Scanned the car did live test of the pedal 8.6%-92.5%. Ordered the Sensor as well the throttle body unit. Acura Dealer quoted me $900 with entire unit. Telling me Acura only sells it together not the sensor separately. Called Honda dealer they quoted me $350 same part entire unit, sensor itself $250. Found same unit sensor for $60 throttle body unit, sensor $25 all delivered.
#34
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Haven't got the part yet. Had the check engine light cleared came on again with VSA and limp mode. Will only drive short trips until the part arrives late this month so i can install it. Wait and see if it corrects the problem.
#35
Racer
wouldn't hurt to tighten the wire to the app sensor as a temporary fix. May help.
#36
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Bought the sensor only for only $16 wanting to install on old throttle unit. When my multimeter arrives which i ordered how do i adjust the sensor resistance to 41 ohms. Or do i adjust the voltage on old throttle body part.
Always nice to have spare TPS unit in case the new one fails at some point or i can sell it as refurbished part.
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