quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Hey everyone,

Well, after about 3 hours of searching/reading long dead threads, I have a few questions that I'm sure many of you will have the answer to

I am planning on changing my transmission fluid, 3rd/4th gear pressure switches, and transmission fluid some time next week. I was looking over the previous owner's service records and realized he had been having cheap places like jiffy lube change the transmission fluid at random intervals. I've also noticed a little hesitation between shifting at 3rd and 4th gear, and I've heard changing the fluid and pressure switches would fix the problem. So that brings me to the point of this thread:

The question here is which fluid should I get, how much of it, and where is it available at a decent price?

I've heard of Amsoil and Redline, but there's a few different types of each and I'd really not get stuck with over 100 bucks of fluid that's of no use to me Links would be awesome, or if you know stores in the NoVa area that would be cool too so I won't have to wait/pay for shipping

Also, during the 3x3 drain/fill process, during which drain/fill do you guys think it would be best to change the filter? I was thinking maybe the last since that would be the time when the fluid would be cleanest/purest/newest.

Thanks everyone for your input.

stevietennis

I was in the same position as you. I have a 2008 TL-S w/ 32k mile on it and was debating if i should do my 3x3. After reading through the threads on Racing ATF and reading about everyone's result, I decided it was a sure enough thing to switch off Z1 to Redline racing.

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...6890562&sr=8-1

Amazon is probably one of the cheapest. Free shipping and no tax.

I didn't change my pressure switches or my tranny filter, so someone else will chime in on that.

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Did you have hesitating/weird shifts? Did it fix the problem?

I'm expecting a miraculous change!!! haha

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

I did the switches and a single drain and fill with Redline. I felt like I had purchased a brand new transmission. Cured the stuttering and shifts like new now. 15k later and I'm still happy (and ready for my next drain and fill with Redline.

04TLVTEC

To the OP,
I did the 3x3 on my 04 with AMSOIL Super Shift Racing fluid w/ NO friction moldifiers. Prior to doing so, the tranny had shuttered on me a couple of times going into 4th gear. I have not done my pressure switches yet but I will get to it before spring. All I can say is the fluid really did make a world of difference and stopped the shuttering. It is now ~3000 miles later, and I am still good to go. It was around 135 shipped to my door for 11 quarts of the fluid. I bought a couple extra just to have them in the garage.

Hope this helps.

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Go with the Redline Racing fluid and if you're not totally comfortable with that you can go for a Racing/D4 mix like I did. I did that basically to introduce the Racing fluid slowly. I will do a 1x3 with the racing fluid in a few months. As for the filter, I did mine just before I did the 3x3. I changed the switches about a year ago when I had Z1 fluid.

optical24

I read a thread in AZ saying that Redline Racing Type F ATF is bad for TL's transmission's?

Is that true?

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Please direct me to that thread.

optical24

Sorry for the person I'm quoting

"Type F fluid is a BIG NO NO, it has detergent in it and will destroy the seals in the soliniod within 3-6 months (seen it happen). Other Honda trans I have seen run with Dextron I,II,III usually have clutch failures quickly."

I was planning to go for a Type F, but after reading numerous of threads of people asking so many questions about Type F, I have decided to go for the D4 instead. If I do a 3x3 drain/fill will it completely drain out all of the Z1?

Also, since Acura transmissions are the same as Honda's it's safe to use Redline D4 on a 2004 Honda Pilot?

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your input guys, I think I'm going to go with the Redline. I'm still not necessarily sure which though...

I wish some of our resident transmission experts would chime in though!

sddale

I think that most of the transmission experts are tired of posting the same comments on trans fluid. All the answers can be found in a couple of very long threads if you search.

Basically Z1 is hated, Redline Racing is preferred (or a mix with Redline light weight racing), Amsoil has been used and Redline D4 (if you're scared to use racing or worried about the warranty). Some people still stick with Z1 but change it more often than the 60k or 100kmi interval.

I called Acura Care and they told me that using a compatible fluid that is NOT Z1 will NOT void your warranty.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

This.

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

I don't have a warranty on mine anyways, since I got 110k miles. So I guess I'll go with redline racing...

any idea what the difference is between racing and D4?

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Good to know, but posting a short, quick answer for someone like me would make life a lot easier than reading countless pages of countless dead threads.

Anywho... After reading up on the forum and doing some google magic for the last 4 hours, I bit the bullet and bought redline racing fluid from amazon for about 120$...

I'll post my results when the fluid, trans filter, and pressure switches finally come in and are installed. I'm expecting a torrent of awesomeness.

Inaccurate

To see why RedLine Racing is better, check this thread below.

Racing ATF (click here)

I know this is a long thread to read. But, you can read it backwards. Read the last page first and then read each previous page.

On Page 14 (second half of the page), you will see pics of the trans drain plug filled with clutch material. Be sure to read the second half of Page 14 because it will answer your question. The Racing stops all of the clutch wear. No fluid except a type F fluid (such as Racing or Lightweight) is able to stop the clutch wear. There are many trans on our 3G forum that have failed due to clutches that are completely worn down.

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for chiming in Innacurate, I'm glad to see that I'm on the right track!

I read some of your older posts along with some of IHC's (funny how thats turned into his nickname, lol) and decided to go for it.

As for mixing it with the lightweight, I don't think I'm going to mess too much with that. I'm not too worried about it, and I've also already ordered 12 quarts of racing fluid. Worst case, I'll start mixing in lightweight if I notice negative results after the first 1x3 interval. (correct me if I'm wrong here, lol)

csmeance

As I've said before, the best thing to do is drain and refill in seperate days or even weeks if you have the opportunity. Drain it and put in a GOOD fluid the first time. IMO something like D4 or Redline is fine. Then wait 100 or so miles and see how the car reacts. Then do it again, and then a third time. If it starts getting worse, that's a sign to stop and let it work itself out.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Not all Type-F's are the same. I remember reading that post and there were some replies later and it turns out he was talking about some Ford Type-F (I don't recall the details). Bottom line is that not all Type-F's are the same. The one that many people (myself included) have used successfully on this forum is "Redline Racing ATF (Type F)":
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9

jda123

I used Dex III on a rebuilt tranny for my 92 accord and it had 340K and was still going stong when I got rid of my car. It would sometimes downshift harder when I used cheap fluid (had a stupid issue with axle wanting to pop out for a while), but if I used synthetic Dex III, it was awesome - I used the Mobil 1.

jl90026

I had a similar problem, my car would sometimes jitter when switching between 3rd and 4th gear. I took it to the acura dealership and they basically told me i needed a new transmission,
but since i had a aftermarket extended warranty, my warranty wanted me to go to one of their shops. So i took my car home and called my buddy that works for Acura. i told him my situation and what the car was doing and he basically said the service manager was a moron, and all i needed was to flush my transmission fluid. so I got him to do it and the jitter is gone. It runs perfect!!!!

Actrite04

iTrader: (2)

I buy mine from paceperformance.com and the prices are good and really fast on shipping.

jeffhuangji

I change brake fluid, steering fluid& transmission fluid regularly once every 35k with the acura fluids. they are kinda cool.
I usually bought them from
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/Acura...798-9031A.aspx

Joelito2983

Sorry for being a newb.......but whats the 3x3 trans fluid change???

Inaccurate

The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
C-026: DIY Changing ATF (with Pics) (click here)

dc5k20z1

damn there are so many threads on transmission fluid, lol. good grief. Im at 30k on my 08 TL 5AT and am going to do the 3x3 drain and fill soon. I most likely will try the mobil 1 ATF first and see how it does just because its easier to obtain locally. Then maybe ill switch to the appraised redline racing ATF from amazon after.

right now my engine/transmission will hesitate and "bump" from park to drive, neutral to drive, and usually coming out of first gear into second it seems to hesitate as well, almost stutters.

I hate cars

Switches will cure the bump into gear. Fluid will cure a 1-2 shudder.

dc5k20z1

the 3rd and 4th switches right?

eaglegreen48

I just did the switch to the new DW-1. I have found the trans shifting alot smoother than before and just a hair quicker.

I hate cars

Yes sir. When you go from park or neutral to drive, the transmission engages 3rd gear and then first gear. This reduces that jerk you feel when shifting into gear. When the switch values start to change, the trans stays in 3rd too long and you can feel the double bump of it going from 3rd to 1st. Normally it's so quick you don't feel it.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

very good info, didnt know that.

lately my car has been feeling more of a jerk going from N or P to D. i might do the switches soon.

VQPower37

IHC, just wondering why does the tranny shift first to 3 then to 1?

sleeper22

This is what I am going to. It HAS to be good if it's NASCRAP(Not a sport centered around rednecks) approved...LMAO

I hate cars

3rd has less leverage on the wheels so when you go from no load (park) to third and it applies power to the wheels, you don't get a jerk. Once the power is applied it can go down to first and you don't feel it. Same thing if you started off in third in a manual, you would have no acceleration but you also wouldn't have to worry about it snapping your head back.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

very good info!

SodaLuvr

Link?

I have seen people concerned about the wear from their transmissions, but I have yet to read about large numbers of transmissions wearing out.

I hate cars

Look in the "racing atf" and "very interesting conversation with my trans builder" threads. Tons of 3g failures around here. Tons of near failures with flares and shudders cured with the type F fluid and pressure switches.

hleapha

I can attest fot what IHC is saying. 3rd and 4th sensors and Redline Racing ATF cured me of the shutter which I knew what just the feeling of my transmission destroying itself. I now feel much more confident of my transmissions lifespan. 10k miles so far, and so good.

dc5k20z1

so wait....... there are three different redline racing ATF fluids? Redline Racing, Redline Racing Type F, and Redline Racing D4. What exactly are people using cause now im confused


im sorry, but what are the differences? is this the one used by many on acurazine?

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...6890562&sr=8-1

Made in America

There's only one Redline Racing. It's Type-F.
There's Redline D-4 which is a Dex III.

I hate cars

Agreed. There are two versions of "Racing", "lightweight racing" and "racing". Both are the same type-f fluid only one is thicker than the other.

D4 is a different animal.